Supercharger Party

jhwalker

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Originally posted by Tetge
James:

By all means break the clutch in gently for 400 miles of stop and go driving before you hammer the car. I attempted an accelerated break in and it may have contributed to my problems with my Spec clutch and flywheel, although none of us like the way it felt right after installation. It would not be worth racing to muck up the new clutch. The surface of the Spec really wants to get to know the flywheel gently prior to be used in anger. Get the clutch right and wait for an Outlaw meet. All the drivers are pros and they prep the track. Along with starting in the morning it is much more comfortable and less crowded at the Outlaw meet. Plus they are having a late model muscle car event that appears to be tailor made for the Cobras.


I agree with your advice. I have watched folks issues after clutch swaps.
:bash: :bash: :bash: Major frigging internal battle between the supposedly grownup James and that other James that seems to make decisions for me too often. After Adam drove around last night, I took the car out from 9:45 until 11:15 . I plan to drive 4-6 more hours today between meetings, but it is clear that it will not be broken in for C-Bad tomorrow. If I could have driven all day it would, but there are other things to do.
I may just drive it down on street tires, watch and film a bit, and drive it back. Then to Juan's on Sunday and back. Then next week.. :sleeping: :sleeping: :sleeping: :sleeping: :sleeping:
:loser: :loser: :loser: :loser:
That would be the smart thing...

:xpl: :xpl: :xpl:

James
 

kaos

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Is anybody bringing down a jack by any chance to C-Bad? Also, what time and where are you guys meeting?
 

jhwalker

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Originally posted by FuShnickens
unless i make a miraculous recovery i won't be able to go. the sniffle and cough has turned into a full blown flu. :(

Bummer dude...
Is the only Cobra running going to be Juan?
Tetge? Helloooooooooo....
John, you said maybe?
James
 

jonas

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im roadracing this saturday at willowsprings so I will be on my street tires so I would have to pass.

I thought we were going to juans on sunday, I'm confused
 

kaos

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Yes I am. I'm going to change out my tranny fluid in the morning so I should be done. Like what time in the afternoon? And directions and all that good stuff?
 

03_Sonic Blur

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Originally posted by Poisonous Mods
:beer: YES :beer:

But in the afternoon. I have an appointment @ Tetge's Garage @ 9am.

Not sure when Juan will get his car from Power Train Dynamic's but im sure he will call me when he gets it.

U still up for it George????

I didn't know Powertrain Dynamics built thinly disguised funny cars
:uh oh:
Who knew:shrug:
 

FuShnickens

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Originally posted by Poisonous Mods
:eek: :( Hope u start feeling better Allan :(

That sucks.....i hate being sick & i rather work 15 hours a day VS being sick.

Get well dude.

i'm actually starting to feel better now. :) heavily medicating the past couple days is starting to pay off i think.
 

SonicVenum

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Okay, my car will have a new pcm by tomorrow morning. We will try to do the removal in the early afternoon, maybe start at about 2 pm.

If you're interested in going still, PM me with your home address, and I'll answer your PM with directions to my house.

Thanks fellas.
 

jhwalker

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Originally posted by 03DOHC
How do you do that? And what for?

Are you getting one from Apten?

Dan,
Now tell me, is the SoCal group loco, or what? We went from 7 of us being at C-Bad tomorrow to none of us being at C-Bad tomorrow rickity-tick...

Hey Juan, so far, I have not found my excellent instructions for pulling the supercharger. WTF, we can print out some more -- or better yet "we dont need no steenking instructions..."
James
 

stang99

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Saved on my hard drive from an earlier post by Apten (why did I save this????):

I don't think you will see worthwhile gains from the inlet or TB. It may be worth 5-10, but our tests didn't show any gains on a ported or non-ported eaton. I guess it just depends on weather conditions and variables with each setup.

For the instructions, how's this?

How to install an Apten modified Eaton

These are the steps to remove and reinstall the supercharger on your 2003 cobra. With a cooled down car it will take two people anywhere from 1-4 hours to complete the whole job depending on experience. While this may seem like a difficult taks, the article is only lengthy because I tried to include every single step and make note of every possible shortcut I have found. Torque specifications are not included in this article.

Required tools (double the 10 and 13mm standard sockets if you have two workers)
8mm socket
Deep socket 10mm
Standard socket 10mm
Open end wrench 10mm
Deep socket 13mm
Standard socket 13mm
Open end wrench 13mm
3/8” extension
Torx T-xx (for MAT sensor removal)
Two towels (to cover fenders)
½” socket wrench or pry bar to pull down tensioner and remove belt
1 quart of intercooler fluid
one friend to help you complete steps 17 and 19 on the removal and 5 and 6 on the install



Supercharger removal

1) Put a towel on each fender. You will be leaning into the engine bay, and you do not want to scratch your paint.
2) Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from butterfly. Next remove the two bolts from the throttle cable bracket connected to the supercharger. Pull this out of the way.
3) Unplug the ISC and TPS sensors. These are the two black sensors that are on the inlet right behind the throttle body
4) Unclamp the black plastic intake tube and pull it away from the throttle body
5) Remove the 4 13mm nuts holding the inlet to the supercharger and carefully slide it off. You do not want to damage the gasket because you will reuse it.
6) Remove the pulley cage if you still have this on your vehicle.
7) Remove the supercharger belt.
8) Unscrew the black bracket on the passenger side that holds the boost bypass and several other sensors. There are two bolts on the side of the supercharger and one nut on the back of the EGR bracket that hold this on. Once you have removed those connectors, unplug the sensors and vacuum lines necessary to pull it clear. Make sure to note which wires you have disconnected and where they go.
9) Disconnect the EGR tube from the EGR assembly. This is on the back of the supercharger and it is black and round. There will be a large nut holding the EGR tube to the EGR assembly.
10) Once the EGR tube is off, there are two bolts that hold the EGR to the supercharger. Remove these two bolts and the whole black round EGR valve will come off the back of the supercharger. Take it off carefully and save the gasket, because you will re-use it.
11) Remove the vacuum lines from the back of the supercharger, there are a total of 3 and one vacuum line that goes to the drivers side valve cover that may need to be disconnected
12) Unplug the MAT sensor. This is on the drivers side at the back on the supercharger. Look right below where the EGR was and slightly forward and you will see it.
13) Unbolt the two fuel rail bolts on each side of the supercharger. These are 10mm bolts and just come right off. There is no need to remove the fuel rail or the injectors.
14) Remove the 10 lower intake manifold bolts. These are the bottom ones, they are a gold color.
15) Remove the two black intercooler hoses from the front fittings. There is a hose clamp on each one, and after you slide the clamp back the hose will just come off. This step will result in some intercooler fluid leaking on your floor.
16) Now that you have removed those two intercooler hoses you can see the fittings that they connect to on the manifold. This is actually a cap on the intercooler, and you will now remove it. This takes two people.
17) Have one person tilt the whole supercharger and intake assembly up. When this is tilted up you will have access to the 4 bolts that hold the intercooler cap to the intake manifold. With the intake tilted up, unbolt three 10mm bolts and one 8mm bolt from the intercooler cap. Once those are removed, pull the cap off the intake manifold. It will leak more intercooler fluid, and two fittings will come out with the cap. If only one of the fittings comes out, gently pull on the other one and it will also pop out.
18) Now you can set the lower intake back down, making sure you do not incorrectly position it and smash the lower intake gasket while doing so. You will re-use the lower intake gasket.
19) Once set down, unbolt the 10 10mm bolts holding the supercharger to the intake manifold. After you have removed all of these, the supercharger will lift directly up.
20) Once taken off, use rags or towels to soak up all coolant that is sitting in the bottom of the intake. You want this to be completely dry.
21) Now that you have the supercharger out of the car, remove the black MAT sensor from the supercharger. Save this with the two bolts, you will install it on your unit when we return it.
22) Remove the bypass valve from the supercharger. This is the black valve on the drivers side, held on by two bolts.
23) The last step before sending it to Apten is to remove the intercooler. To remove the intercooler, CAREFULLY unbolt all 10 bolts that hold it to the bottom of the supercharger. If one bolt becomes difficult to unscrew, thread it back in and then try again. You may have to perform this sequence several times on each bolt to get them out without breaking. If you do break a bolt we can have it removed, but it costs us $20 to have each one backed out.
24) Now you are done. To ship the supercharger to us, package it very carefully in a box that is at least 12X12X26. If you can not come up with a suitable box we can send you one. The supercharger should be packaged so there is at least 1” of padding between it and any part of the box. Newspapers work well, as do foam sheets and padding. Foam peanuts do not work as well because the supercharger can shift around in those while being transported. Your shipping weight should be approximately 35lb.

Reinstallation
1) Now that you’ve disassembled it, reinstallation is a backwards process.
2) First, install the intercooler back on the supercharger. You should use red RTV and put a bead around the mating surfaces on the supercharger. Also use red locktite on each of the intercooler bolts. Do not torque them down too tight or you will break them
3) Reinstall the black MAT sensor on your supercharger.
4) Reinstall the bypass valve on the supercharger.
5) Now you put the supercharger back in the car. Inspect the supercharger gasket on the top of the intake manifold and make sure it’s still good. If so, carefully set the supercharger on top. You will feel the dowel pins slide in and it will fall right into place. Now install the 10 bolts back on the supercharger that hold it to the intake manifold. These are the silver 10mm bolts.
6) Now that you have it bolted down, you will need a second person for this step. Tip the whole intake manifold up so you can put the water cap back on the intercooler. Make sure that both of the water tubes are installed and pop into both the intercooler and cap. When they fit into place you will feel a clean crisp pop as they go together. Once they are in, reinstall the 3 10mm bolts and 1 8mm bolt that connect the cap to the lower intake manifold
7) Once that is on, carefully drop the front of the supercharger so the intake manifold sits into place. It’s important that the intake manifold sit correctly on top of the intake manifold gasket. When you set it down give it a little nudge back and fourth to make sure it feels like it is lined up. You can also look down the intake manifold bolts and verify that the holes are lined up with the gasket.
8) Now install the 10 intake manifold gaskets. These should be torqued in the typical intake manifold installation pattern. Start with the middle bolts reversing sides, and work your way out to the ends.
9) Once that is in place, make sure all of the fuel injectors are still installed tightly and bolt the fuel rails down. If the injectors are not down all of the way the bolt holes for the fuel rail will not correctly line up.
10) Connect the wiring plug for the black MAT sensor on the drivers side near the back of the supercharger
11) Connect the 3 vacuum lines to the back of the supercharger, and install the vacuum line to the drivers side valve cover if you removed it earlier
12) Install the EGR valve back on the supercharger. There are two bolts that hold it on, and a gasket that goes behind it.
13) Reconnect the nut that holds the EGR valve to the EGR tube.
14) Once installed, take the black rail with the boost bypass and accessories and reinstall that. Be sure to reconnect every vacuum line that you removed, and every sensor plug
15) Now reinstall the inlet to the supercharger. Make sure to use the gasket, and tighten down all four 13mm bolts
16) Plug the IAT and IAC sensors back in
17) Install the throttle cable bracket back on top of the supercharger. Connect the throttle and cruise cable to the butterfly.
18) Reinstall rubber intake tube and tighten down clamp
19) Install supercharger belt
20) Install the pulley cage if you still use this.
21) Check all connections, make sure you have no bolts left over. If you have any questions call us at (314) 276-9608 before starting your vehicle.
22) Unscrew intercooler reservoir cap and start the vehicle up. After 20 seconds of operation you will need to top this off with more intercooler fluid as the pump kicks in.


Originally posted by jhwalker
Dan,
Now tell me, is the SoCal group loco, or what? We went from 7 of us being at C-Bad tomorrow to none of us being at C-Bad tomorrow rickity-tick...

Hey Juan, so far, I have not found my excellent instructions for pulling the supercharger. WTF, we can print out some more -- or better yet "we dont need no steenking instructions..."
James
 

stang99

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Some of us can get a high altitude fix on Sunday at LACR so that we don't get the DR-DT's. Those pink elephants mixed in with gray rental cars dancing in front of your eyes can be Hell. I don't like the way I feel when I go cold turkey, so, a litle harmless racing won't hurt me. I can stop anytime I want to. I not adicted, I just enjoy the rush, but everything is fully under control. :coolman:

Originally posted by omslaw
LOL! What a bunch of flakes.
 

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