Curious where you're getting this info. I've owned my Boss since March 2011 and I know of no other owners running 10W-30. Thanks.
Something to consider when the oil change topic happens here
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
- Start date
Curious where you're getting this info. I've owned my Boss since March 2011 and I know of no other owners running 10W-30. Thanks.
Any one else have any experience with Torco SR-1 [100% synthetic racing oil] available in 10w40 that could be used the Roadrunner. I use their 20w50 SR-1 Racing in my 540 BBC Camaro and use their 5w20 SR-1 in my 5.7 Hemi GC. Have also ran SR-1 in my Volvo V70R [139k]for years, also with no problems.
You live in a cold climate, never road race your car, and it's a daily driver. You have NO requirement for a viscous lubricant in your Boss 302. Ditch Motorcraft 5W-50 immediately. Here is a detailed recommendation list for all Boss 302's that are not driven in sub zero weather on a daily basis. In your instance, Amsoil ATM 10W-30.
8.5 quart fill
Amsoil 10W-30 - use this for a street car, street racing, and drag racing
Amsoil 10W-40 - use this for long session road racing
Amsoil EaO17 - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, Ford Motorcraft filters are only 93.7% efficient @ 20 microns.
To make your Getrag shift like butter, this is excellent lube.
Amsoil Syncromesh - requires 3 quarts
and for the rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts
Friction modifier is only used for clutch pack type differentials. If your Boss has the Torsen, you do not require it.
Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces in a clutch pack differential
Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.
UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.
UOA thread
Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil. Use this link to buy at cost.
Preferred Customer
If you ever have any questions, I'm always here to answer them. Just send me a PM.
Troy
Not every owner posts on car forums and live local to me. The take my advice and their performance has improved.
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UnleashedBeast, thanks for all of you recommendations. I still have one oil-change worth of Mobil 5W-50 lying around. Now I am considering selling it to make room for some Amsoil.
I was also wondering what the best procedure is to store a vehicle for 4-5 months. A co-worker, who also drives a 13' Boss suggested I do an oil change before storage (I was close to 5000 kms on my Mobil 1 5W-50 oil, total mileage is almost 16000 km), and then put it away. Then do another change when I bring the car back out. Is this correct? Is there a better method?
Lastly, may I ask why you so heavily support Amsoil products? Did you use something different previously? Is Amsoil really that superior to other products on the market, even within the true synthetic market?
Thanks for all your help.
Sarosh
I was also wondering what the best procedure is to store a vehicle for 4-5 months. A co-worker, who also drives a 13' Boss suggested I do an oil change before storage (I was close to 5000 kms on my Mobil 1 5W-50 oil, total mileage is almost 16000 km), and then put it away. Then do another change when I bring the car back out. Is this correct? Is there a better method?
Lastly, may I ask why you so heavily support Amsoil products? Did you use something different previously? Is Amsoil really that superior to other products on the market, even within the true synthetic market?
Thanks for all your help.
Sarosh
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Using Amsoil, change the oil when you put the car into storage. When you bring the car out in the Spring, take it for a long 30 minute to 1 hour drive. This will get the oil hot and condition it for use all season long. You will only need to perform one oil change a year.
The GT500 UOA thread should answer that question. No lubricant tested to date has out performed it. I am still needing Royal Purple XPR and HPS samples though to see how they stack up.
The GT500 UOA thread should answer that question. No lubricant tested to date has out performed it. I am still needing Royal Purple XPR and HPS samples though to see how they stack up.
fiddlefadel
New Member
Troy, I am considering the z rod oil for my original 1970 Boss 302. I'm looking for a high zinc content. Do you know what it is? Do you sell it? Do you think this would be better than Brad Penn oil?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
Troy,
I have a few questions:
Ref the MT82 oil, the Amsoil Catalog does not list any fluid as you suggest. Any idea why?
Also, I really get it from this thread about the MC 5w-50 oil but I just changed it & have another 8.5QTS in reserve for another change, so be it.
Do you know who manufactures it? When I worked for Ford many moons ago, it was Exxon.
I understand the FL1A filters are Purolator Pure-One's..... Do you know who makes the FL500S?
Thanks for all your research & info...........
8.5 quart fill
Amsoil 10W-30 - use this for a street car, street racing, and drag racing
Amsoil 10W-40 - use this for long session road racing
Amsoil EaO17 - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, Ford Motorcraft filters are only 93.7% efficient @ 20 microns.
To make your Getrag shift like butter, this is excellent lube.
Amsoil Syncromesh - requires 3 quarts
and for the rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts
Friction modifier is only used for clutch pack type differentials. If your Boss has the Torsen, you do not require it.
Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces in a clutch pack differential
Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.
UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.
UOA thread
Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil. Use this link to buy at cost.
Preferred Customer
I have a few questions:
Ref the MT82 oil, the Amsoil Catalog does not list any fluid as you suggest. Any idea why?
Also, I really get it from this thread about the MC 5w-50 oil but I just changed it & have another 8.5QTS in reserve for another change, so be it.
Do you know who manufactures it? When I worked for Ford many moons ago, it was Exxon.
I understand the FL1A filters are Purolator Pure-One's..... Do you know who makes the FL500S?
Thanks for all your research & info...........
8.5 quart fill
Amsoil 10W-30 - use this for a street car, street racing, and drag racing
Amsoil 10W-40 - use this for long session road racing
Amsoil EaO17 - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, Ford Motorcraft filters are only 93.7% efficient @ 20 microns.
To make your Getrag shift like butter, this is excellent lube.
Amsoil Syncromesh - requires 3 quarts
and for the rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts
Friction modifier is only used for clutch pack type differentials. If your Boss has the Torsen, you do not require it.
Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces in a clutch pack differential
Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.
UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.
UOA thread
Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil. Use this link to buy at cost.
Preferred Customer
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AMSOIL Synthetic Racing Motor Oil
Would the racing version of amsoil (Dominator 10w-30) be a good choice for drag racing applications in high heat index areas in Texas (100 degree days)? Or should i just stick to the regular full synthetic 10w-30 amsoil?
Would the racing version of amsoil (Dominator 10w-30) be a good choice for drag racing applications in high heat index areas in Texas (100 degree days)? Or should i just stick to the regular full synthetic 10w-30 amsoil?
Amsoil did recommend MTG 75W-90 transmission lube when the 2011 GT first released. However, Ford was having a lot of problems with the MT82. After the first TSB to change out OEM fluid for much lighter DCT formulation, Amsoil removed their recommendation of any lubricant in this transmission, as they wanted nothing to do with an inferior design that could have fingers pointed at them.
Conoco Philips
Purolator manufacturers most Motorcraft oil filters. Another company by the name of "Racor" is said to make a few filters for Ford diesel trucks and other applications.
Not a definite answer, but I'd bet on Purolator.
Would not have been possible without members on this forum. Thanks goes to all who participate.
RD30 is a superior formulation to Signature Series when it comes to anti-wear additives and friction modifiers, but lacks in the detergent/dispersant department. If you do not mind changing your oil more frequently, RD30 is the better choice. Recommended oil change interval, not to exceed 6 months or 5,000 miles. Signature Series is good up to 1 year or 15,000 miles.
RD30 is perfect for those who have oil change OCD, and a wallet that doesn't care. Also for those who mod their car to create almost double (or more) HP than the car was designed with. RD30 can take abuse that most lubricants would fail at.
I'm not trying to short sell Signature Series here, as it also serves a purpose. ATM 10W-30 SS held up just fine in my near 700 RWHP GT500. Wear metal ppm were on par with RD30.
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thx unleashed beast for the info!
Cool, I just bought 9 qts of Royal Purple 10w40 for my first oil change today. Been reading this and don't trust the Motorcraft 5w50. Seemed like this was the best I could get locally, $10 a qt tho :bash: Even the Castrol Edge and Mobile 1 was that price tho here.
Have you got any ethanol dilution/suspension tests for Amsoil to share? How about water suspension? We tried Amsoil in ethanol fueled racing engines and experienced a high degree of alcohol/moisture suspension/contamination that, unlike RP XPR, did not "gas-off" at operating temperatures. As you know, water and alcohol make lousy lubricants. Holding them both in suspension is not a positive trait. Not trying to bash Amsoil at all, just sharing experience that I think relates directly to today's ethanol-mix gasoline.
Which Amsoil did you try, the 10-30 Dominator racing oil? I'm curious to hear more about your results, as I am running the AMSOIL 10-30 Dominator oil in my Turbo Boss 302 motor with E85.
XPR was formulated specifically for straight alcohol drag racing applications, so it does one heck of a job.
What Amsoil formulation were you using in your application, and are you referring to E85?
No reports of E85 issues with Signature or Dominator thus far.
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Was Dominator 15w-50, Straight alcohol not E85. I would expect E85(min 70% ethanol) to be similar. Alcohols(both ethanol and methanol) are extremely hygroscopic and tend to introduce a significant amount of moisture into the oil system, especially when cold and running in a rich condition. Oils in this application need to have the ability to readily gas-off the alcohol/moisture dilution when operating temperatures are reached. The easiest way to see if you have a problem is to take a look at your valvetrain after the engine has cooled down. Evidence of moisture droplets and/or white-ish(pink-ish in the case of amsoil) oil film signifies a potential problem. Again, my experience is in a racing application, not street use.
For straight alcohol and methanol use, Royal Purple XPR is a better choice, as you stated. With E85, there are no reported issues of your problem using Signature Series or Dominator.
I have never talked to anyone who has used either for straight alcohol/methanol applications.
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Bringing this thread back to life.
Unleashed,
What kind of oil pressures do you see from the 10W-30 compared to the 10W-40 in normal driving? Would the 10W-30 maintain pressure for 1-2 track days a year?
Unleashed,
What kind of oil pressures do you see from the 10W-30 compared to the 10W-40 in normal driving? Would the 10W-30 maintain pressure for 1-2 track days a year?
You will average 7 PSI less at every temperature range using 10W-30. Until someone has an oil pressure gauge running the road course with 10W-30.....won't really know if it's adequate. You also have to consider HT/HS viscosity, it plays a vital role around the pistons.
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