The dealer I bought from gave me a base tune with o2's and egr shut off. There is 1 egr code that pops up so hopefully when I get this software working I can shut it off.
Self Tuning With SCT Pro Racer
- Thread starter 03cobra#2
- Start date
So I got in to the software. Had to run updater then open the program and use code AMZ2. First thing I did was add 30% then another 10% to the maf curve to get it to start idle, and can Rev a bit too.
I did have a egr code P0408 come on and I am not sure how to shut it off.
Next up is to force open loop, turn adaptive fuel off and start dialing the maf curve.
I did have a egr code P0408 come on and I am not sure how to shut it off.
Next up is to force open loop, turn adaptive fuel off and start dialing the maf curve.
Yeah I'm curious to know if you're gonna be able to shut off those codes so no CEL's come on. I'm in California AND have an SCT device. I purposely haven't updated my firmware in a year just in case they pull some weird crap once i update it. If it goes to hell my tuner can do MS3.
Made a bit of progress. Figured out how to shut off the egr P0405 code. You go to misc then scalers then set the value to 0. I turned off adaptive fuel, forced open loop, and started getting readings at idle. My wideband was reading about 1.2 lambda so I dialed in a bit of fuel to get it closer to 1. I haven't touched anything else. Baby steps.
When I go to start the car it can be a bit of work for it to start like I have to try a couple times. Eventually I'll figure out where and what the crank settings are cold and warm.
Here is a screen shot of my idle with a couple things checked. Also I attached my datalog. Anyone with livelink please take a look and let me know if you see anything concerning. Thanks, Doug.
View attachment datalog2.csv
When I go to start the car it can be a bit of work for it to start like I have to try a couple times. Eventually I'll figure out where and what the crank settings are cold and warm.
Here is a screen shot of my idle with a couple things checked. Also I attached my datalog. Anyone with livelink please take a look and let me know if you see anything concerning. Thanks, Doug.
With your cam setuo you can't just dial in fuel to lambda at idle. When you have large cams you get a lot of reversion so your wideband readings at idle aren't accurate of what's going on. You need to dial in fuel for the highest vacuum.
Now that all works well in open loop but I'm not sure how people get around that in closed loop. I know on other platforms they either go full time open loop, or hack the tune for no closed loop at idle.
I haven't researched it much on these cars because I don't want any of the issues with big cams, been there done that on other cars. That's why my car has a set of 96 cobra cams in it.
Now that all works well in open loop but I'm not sure how people get around that in closed loop. I know on other platforms they either go full time open loop, or hack the tune for no closed loop at idle.
I haven't researched it much on these cars because I don't want any of the issues with big cams, been there done that on other cars. That's why my car has a set of 96 cobra cams in it.
Www.efidynotuning.com is going to be your best bet for info. No one uses sct over there so that's going to make it an up hill battle.
Thank you for the response. I will look at my boost / vac guage while doing this. My vac seems to be pretty good at 15in or so. My cams are degreed per the card to give me a lsa of about 116.
I have been doing research on the different parameters and such. Right now I'm reading about the failed maf table and I'm wondering if I should just disable it or dial it in.
The LWFM table should be one of the last things you do. It's usually the last thing I do after everything else is tuned. And using the histogram with Livelink makes it a snap really.
Cool. So I disabled failed maf for now.
Little update, I went through the tune and Don's book to make sure all the basics were set up for my combo.....keeping adaptive fuel off and forced open loop.
Next order of business is I noticed the car takes 3-4 cranks before it fires up when it is cold and runs lean at idle like 1.2 lambda. When it warms up it settles down to a nice idle at around .95 lambda and the boost / vac gauge says 10-11in of vac at idle.....which I think is pretty good for the cams I have.
So I'm going to check out the crank lambda and cold start fuel tables to get the starting a bit better before moving on to dialing in the maf curve.
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I wish I could remember all the tables. In my 01 I had a hot start issue with the 80lb injectors. I ended up figuring out the difference in size between the stock and 80lb injectors and scaled the start up tables that much. It made a big difference.
So one thing that is bothering me is a setting that I can set / change the stoich value for the fuel you are running. It has been set at 14.64 for gas. Since I'm running E85 so I want to change this to like 9.7 or something? I know pump E85 is lower then true E85.
If I change this will it throw off the work I've done on my maf curve?
If I change this will it throw off the work I've done on my maf curve?
Answered my own question. I changed the stoich value to 9.7 from 14.6 because I'm running E85. I adjusted the crank lambda to call for 10% more fuel during cranking before I went to bed last night....This morning when I fired up the car it idled EXTREMELY rich but did fire up no problem. So obviously changing from 14.6 to 9.7 changed the computer calibration. So now that I have the correct A/F ratio in the software its time to start dialing in the maf curve.
My immediate goal is to get the car to cold start well, cold idle well, and warm idle well. After I get that down I'll start moving on up the maf curve.
As of right now I don't really see any glaring problems, and I am much more comfortable after playing with the software and and doing lots of reading in my book and online. It's just a matter of getting your feet wet and things start to fall into place. Still very early in the process but I feel good about where I am at so far.
My immediate goal is to get the car to cold start well, cold idle well, and warm idle well. After I get that down I'll start moving on up the maf curve.
As of right now I don't really see any glaring problems, and I am much more comfortable after playing with the software and and doing lots of reading in my book and online. It's just a matter of getting your feet wet and things start to fall into place. Still very early in the process but I feel good about where I am at so far.
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Making some progress. Cold start and cold idle seems to be good. After it warms up I had to take fuel away as it was idling around 80 lambda or so and wanting to die every few seconds. Leaned the idle out a bit to get it to about 95 to 1.0 lambda or so. It holds a nice idle but does bog / stumble every 10 seconds or so. The wideband drifts rich and stumbles. Recovers idles good then rinse and repeat. It dosent stall just a bog / stumble every 10 seconds or so. Any tips on that one?
Edit: Here is a log of my warm idle
Edit: Here is a log of my warm idle
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First thing I'm going to check is my throttle body blade. I know that when I unplug the IAC the car dies....so I'm thinking I need to open the blade a bit more. Im thinking having the IAC completely control the idle may be a cause.
Thats a good start.
Last time I set my idle I was able to put the laptop so I could see it and adjust the throttle stop while watching the idle duty cycle. I got it around 30% then locked down the stop. After that I adjusted the TPS as needed. Worker pretty good.
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That is helpful. So I'll get it up to operating temp, and datalog that parameter. I will be able to look at the logs tonight that I did before work...but I'm thinking my idle duty cycle is something like .50. I know that when the car is idling and i unplug the IAC the car shuts off pretty quickly....no chugging or stumbling just shuts right off. I'll report back with results.
Sounds like the throttle blade isn't open enough. Mine would sit at 50% to with how I used to set idle. Just remember to give it a second to settle after making the adjustment. It'll raise up then settle back down to commanded idle.
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