Removing drivers side cam cover

[Beercules]

Ok, so how do people recommend removing the drivers side cam cover? Trying to do cams myself and the brake booster is in the way. I've tried lowering the k member. ..something won't let it go down far enough (trans mount? ) . I'm trying to move the booster out of the way, can't remove the plastic\metal pin tying the pedal to the master cylinder.

Any ideas?

Also, when using the ARP fastener lube, do I need to worry about the cam bolts loosening up?

Other PITAs so far for people thinking of doing this themselves in their garage, the primary chain is tight enough on the passenger side to make the sprocket very difficult to reinstall. Aftermarket motor mount spacers falling into the kmember (more rattles, need a bmr set up). Cant see, Light placement (like always). Oil running onto header collectors (must be dripping from loose cam covers). Out of shape (this is good exercise though).

Anyway, since I haven't found much anywhere online, other than sound clips and ads, thought I'd ask you guys.

Thanks

Ps, I'm going to get pictures of something I haven't seen mentioned yet. I have a friend coming over to do NDT (dye penetrant) on the sprockets to make sure they haven't cracked during the install...extra peace of mind.

 

[Snoopy49]

From the 2014 Mustang Service Manual

View attachment Camshaft Removal Procedure.pdf

View attachment Brake Booster.pdf

NOTE: The booster push rod clevis locking pin is a one-time use only part. Any time the booster push rod clevis locking pin is removed, install a new booster push rod clevis locking pin.

NOTE: Use an 11 mm, 12-point socket or wrench to compress the 2 locking tabs on the clevis pin.

Compress the clevis pin locking tabs and pull outward on the opposite end of the pin, then remove and discard the clevis locking pin.

 

[Beercules]

Thanks. Let me study.

 

[Snoopy49]

Now might be the time to upgrade the sprockets, chains and tensioners. Think of it as an insurance policy.
If you need anything else from the service manual, just ask.

 

[Beercules]

I'm upgrading the upper components, not pulling the front cover. Keeping the primary sprockets because I haven't heard of upgrades in stock size.

 

[Snoopy49]

I didn't realize you could change the cams without removing the front cover. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

[Beercules]

Maybe that's why the primary sprocket was so difficult to reinstall? Will the tensioner back off without pushing it in with a vice? Wonder if too tight a tensioner will cause problems.

 

[Snoopy49]

From the description on page 18 of the camshaft removal pdf, it looks like there is a ratchet mechanism on both the RH and LH primary chain tensioners that can be damaged if the tensioners are not compressed properly.

The following is a guess on my part. I have never done this procedure and only have the service manual description to work from. Maybe someone with direct experience can right what is wrong with my supposition and fill in the blanks.

It looks like the ratchet mechanism prevents slack in the primary timing chain. When slack occurs the piston pushes against the primary timing chain tensioner arm and the ratchet mechanism extends and holds that position. When you removed all the tension in the system, you also allowed the ratchet mechanism to move to it's fully extended position. Pretty much rendering the automatic tensioner useless.

NOTICE: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

1. Compress each tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise.
2. Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
3. While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
4. Install a suitable pin into the hole of each tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in place during installation.

Remove the tensioner from the vise.

 

[Beercules]

I don't think I let the primary guide ratchet closed any on the passenger side, or it wouldn't have fir at all.

I need to make some calls tomorrow. Finally got the drivers side cover off and the primary sprocket isn't moving. Looked down the hole and the top guide has a lip to keep the chain from moving forward, at least I think that's what's happening.
I might have the chance to upgrade the oil pump and crank sprocket...but it would take at least a week longer than expected.

 

[Snoopy49]

Good luck.

 

[Beercules]

Got the cams off and on! !! Not sure how I got them off. Maybe because it's colder (did the sprocket shrink more than the chain? ) maybe because I turned the engine a bit (I heard that could loosen the tensioner somehow). Whatever, it came off.
I found the way to put the primary sprocket back on when you don't take the cover off. Line the cam key up with the sprocket keyway the best you can (springs will try to rotate it to the local area of least tension). Thread the bolt\washer in until there's just the slightest tension, enough to hold the cams from rotating away from the keyway. Use a 1.5" wrench to wiggle the exhaust cam (I have the Cloyes billet secondary kit) while adding slight tension to the bolt. Worked like a dream on the second side I did (drivers).
HOWEVER! Don't put too much tension on the bolt or I have a feeling you'll crack the sprocket.
I haven't NDTd the sprockets or anything yet, so not sure if I did any damage. Towards the end of the sprocket travel on the cam end I heard a couple pops, not sure what that was (secondary sprocket seating, something to do with the chain, hairline fractures in the sprocket?) Going to wait for ndt before I button it up.

 

[Catmonkey]

Did you use a cam chain wedge to keep tension on the primary chain tight enough so it didn't move a tooth or two on the crank gear?

 

[Beercules]

1" heater hose.

 

[Bad Company]

Got the cams off and on! !! Not sure how I got them off. Maybe because it's colder (did the sprocket shrink more than the chain? ) maybe because I turned the engine a bit (I heard that could loosen the tensioner somehow). Whatever, it came off.
I found the way to put the primary sprocket back on when you don't take the cover off. Line the cam key up with the sprocket keyway the best you can (springs will try to rotate it to the local area of least tension). Thread the bolt\washer in until there's just the slightest tension, enough to hold the cams from rotating away from the keyway. Use a 1.5" wrench to wiggle the exhaust cam (I have the Cloyes billet secondary kit) while adding slight tension to the bolt. Worked like a dream on the second side I did (drivers).
HOWEVER! Don't put too much tension on the bolt or I have a feeling you'll crack the sprocket.
I haven't NDTd the sprockets or anything yet, so not sure if I did any damage. Towards the end of the sprocket travel on the cam end I heard a couple pops, not sure what that was (secondary sprocket seating, something to do with the chain, hairline fractures in the sprocket?) Going to wait for ndt before I button it up.

You need to make damn sure you didn't crack the primary sprockets at the keyway.

The Cloyes sprockets are billet so I doubt you'd crack one of them easily.

The poping noising is what has me concerned.

Also the primary chain oil tensioner does have a spring loded ratcheting mechanism that will NOT allow you to gain any length of chain. If you don't hold the tensioner arm back with a wedge the spring loaded mechanism will actual move outwards taking up more slack in the chain and not allow you to install the primary sprocket easily. You now need to rotate this engine over by hand to make positively sure no valves hit a piston and lock the engine up. If you crank it over by the starter you may bend a valve if the primary chain has moved on the crank sprocket.

DO NOT TRY TO START THIS ENGINE UNTIL YOU PHYSICALLY ROTATE IT BY HAND AT LEAST 360 DEGREES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bad Company]

1" heater hose.

I'm afraid the 1" heater hose will be compressed by the spring loaded ratcheting mechanism of the oil tensioner causing you timing issues.

I would have made a wood wedge with a hole in it to thread a piece of rope to pull it out and tapped it in with a hammer to keep the chain and tensioner from possibly moving

 

[Beercules]

The primary sprocket never left the chain, just wedged upward and outward by the hose. Think it still could have skipped a tooth?
Turning it by hand isn't too hard, I'll check it tonight.
I also have a borescope, I might be able to find the timing marks with that for verification.
If the sprocket did crack, the temperature is fluctuating a lot right now, so it should grow by the time I check it. If it did crack, I'm surprised it didn't crack when I was beginning to force it into position, instead of toward the end when it just needed to slide down the barrel.

 

[Snoopy49]

View attachment Oil Pan Removal.pdf

 

[Beercules]

So I pulled the timing cover, have a feeling the tensioner ratcheted down too far. Ordered some new primary sprockets just in case (did the ndt and think it showed some lines (cracks) on the inner bosses (?).
Have new billet crank sprocket. Changed oil pump gears, however I have lost one of the oil pump bolts . I need to drop the pan a bit to get one of the pump pickup bolts in since its so difficult to get to, the bolt keeps dropping into the pan.
I've dredged the pan for the pickup bolt at least 6 times with a magnet, I figure if the pump bolt was in there I would have picked that up as well. I guess while the pan is loose I'll stick my hand in there and feel around for the other bolt to make sure, then find a replacement.
Can't rent a cherry picker until Monday, guess I watch TV and relax until then.

 

[Bad Company]

So I pulled the timing cover, have a feeling the tensioner ratcheted down too far. Ordered some new primary sprockets just in case (did the ndt and think it showed some lines (cracks) on the inner bosses (?).
Have new billet crank sprocket. Changed oil pump gears, however I have lost one of the oil pump bolts . I need to drop the pan a bit to get one of the pump pickup bolts in since its so difficult to get to, the bolt keeps dropping into the pan.
I've dredged the pan for the pickup bolt at least 6 times with a magnet, I figure if the pump bolt was in there I would have picked that up as well. I guess while the pan is loose I'll stick my hand in there and feel around for the other bolt to make sure, then find a replacement.
Can't rent a cherry picker until Monday, guess I watch TV and relax until then.

To me it sounds like a few refreshing mind numbing drinks are a good way to relax from what you've described for the rest of this weekend

Hopefully it will go better after the weekend and the aggravation of doing this will be worth it in the end.

 

[Beercules]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...Billet-Oil-Pump-Gear-s-Install-**A-FEW-PICS**

Hmmm, coyote engine oil pump bolts don't all look the same. ..could I be so lucky the bolt has been in front of me all along?
Snoopy, can you link the oil pump removal instructions please?

Too bad our pickup tube doesn't come out as far as in these pictures, on the trinity, the end is flush with the pan.