That CHE setup looks much easier to install, that Rob posted above. Looks like it is a total bolt on setup. Is that true, Rob?
Rear shock tower brace questions???
- Thread starter greengt88
- Start date
Yes, it was easy, the kit suplied self tapping screws for a 3/8 hole, I went with grade 8 hardware bolts and nuts, but might weld it in later, but it may not be needed, cause it feels like fort knox :-D
Did you notice any change in the feel after installing it?
I would say a little bit, nothing major. I did it for peace of mind though :thumbsup: but did notice a little bit less noise which was a nice surprise :-D
Thanks for the pics guys....love to use the hans bar, but can't seem to be able to purchase it, che it is....
Hans is in the middle of another run of Subframes and Rear Strut Towers. I have a rear brace on order. Try to contact them.
[email protected]
The CHE does look a much easier install however.
Stronger than any of the above.................custom brace made outta 2x2 or if room permits 2x3 fitted to the stock tower contours, at least 4 tabs welded to the floor, tabs / brackets running on an angle up to where the shock pokes through.
here are the self tapping bolts that came with the kit and the grade 8 hardware I used in their place :-D
Unless it is unusually thick wall tubing, round is a stronger shape. :shrug: most 2x2,2x3 tubing is pretty thin compared to the two mounts in question. Not to mention, both of these companies I am sure did pretty decent r&d to get to the design they chose. I’m just sayin’
To me, most of the offerings out there are pretty first, strong second. Case in point, self tapping screws in the kit. After making a template the 2x2 / 2x3 (purchased in the wall thickness of your choice) can be plasma cut to fit the exact contour of the shock tower, add in the welded tabs to the floor and tabs to the top edge of the towers and you've created a real structure. Not saying none of the better braces help, just pointing out that if max strength is your goal there are other / better options. Vert guys will really notice the difference between the two.
I am not saying nasa couldn't make it stronger, they could, but when we are told we don't even need the brace, I think you are going overboard :shrug: you could also make it out of 2 in billet steel, and laser cut... you get the idea ,. And that is why I used the grade 8 bolts over self tapping screws, :beer:
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True, but that is assuming that someone has the tools, and abilities to fab it (or has a local welder with those skills). I have have the tools, and skills, but the Hans design was so stout, and nicely done, that I really don't think you could make it any stronger than they did. That Main tube is really heavy 1020 DOM steel tubing, so it is quite a bit stronger than square tubing of equivalent dimension. It is also mounted in the same way you described above. It is welded around the top of the tower where the shock mounts are, then the 1/4" plate runs down following the contour of the tower, and gets welded to a separate 1/4" plate that you have to weld into the trunk floor. As I said, I love to weld, and machine my own stuff, but when something is this nicely built, and you can buy it for a reasonable price, it just doesn't make sense to "re-invent the wheel".
Rob, by through bolting as you did, it made it way stronger than the self tappers for sure! I think if you wanted to take it a step further, the thing to do would be to cut some 3/16", or 1/4" steel plates to go under the floor, then use your "through bolts" to sandwich it all together, then you would not have the stresses supported by each bolt individually, just going through sheetmetal alone. What you did, though, is probably more than enough for all but the most hardcore racer.;-)
Yeah, I am more than happy with its strength, I have droped the idea of welding the seams due the little advantage vs. the pita factor lol
well bringing this thread back since hans racecraft has a working website now....i made deciding a no brainer. the have 2 models, 1 is 1 5/8" the other is 2" tubing. This seems to be the nicest of all i've looked at so far. they are supposedly making an ultra-lite version also, out of chromoly. That's what i'll go with. just wish it came in yellow not just black. They are priced $153 and $190 no price on ultra lite yet, i imagine it will be more. it does require a weld in installation also. i do still like the che, as after the brackets are installed the bar can be removed. nice for groceries.
I want to bump this and get more feedback. I was always told that the STBs that have any point of flex, ie a bolt like the CHE is not as good as a fully rigid piece like the Kenny Brown, Hans, etc.
Also, can everyone confirm the Hans and KB are weld in? I think this will def help a vert, and I know it will once I convert to coilovers.
Also, can everyone confirm the Hans and KB are weld in? I think this will def help a vert, and I know it will once I convert to coilovers.
Hans is weld in. I think KB bolts on the sides and welds at the trunk floor in the middle.
^^Thank you sir, I will pick up a Hans after I figure out my SFC situation.
here are the self tapping bolts that came with the kit and the grade 8 hardware I used in their place :-D
I just bought one of these braces and will go with the upgraded hardware as you did. Any clearance issues with the Coils? Did you just have to remove the rear wheels for install to get at the top of the tower? Thanks
Did anyone ever install a Hans brace from the GP?
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