Procharger F1C Cog System too much for a MMR 900

91svtcoupe · Jul 12, 2012

Helomech74 said:
Yep, that's the one I was thinking of.

That blowers max RPM is 74K if I remember correctly and spinning it to 70K should put you around 22-24psi depending on the rest of the setup. I think your intercooler is going to be a restriction (centri blowers work much better with vertical flow intercoolers as opposed to horizontal like the one you have.) I would have used the TRV25 at a minimum, preferably the TRV259 (Not a lot of space in the Fox coupe though, so that one would require lots of trimming.) I made a small vertical flow radiator out of Bell cores that flows 1900+ cfm and it's a nice small package, I eventually switched to a A/W setup since my coupe was turned into a drag car.

I run my head unit in the same orientation, albeit with the discharge a little more level. I ran the discharge though the passenger side fender and down to the intercooler, then brought the outlet side to the throttle body back up the same way (My intercooler has inlet and outlet on the same side.) I ran the BOV in the engine bay right off of the discharge pipe.

I'm currently running a standard 3 core innercooler.

3 Core, Standard 3.0" Max recommended 825hp Dem: 27 x 12.5 x 3

I'd like to honestly just keep it, but I'm not sure how it will all work with the new blower. For starters I think it will be plenty enough for me to push the 750 800rwhp that Im looking for if I will have enough Fuel etc. And anything more may bring my MMR 900 to a short lived life. The plan of coarse is to just cruise and play. No Track time.

here is a picture of the inner cooler, I would have room for the Tread stone, Would you run it or the one I have? if I didn't go with the options you listed?

mtrsprt · Jul 12, 2012

The Procharger cooler your running is vertical core. Equivalent to the Treadstone TRV25.

Should work well, and for minimal pressure drop (less than 2psi @ 1400CFM)

91svtcoupe · Jul 12, 2012

mtrsprt said:
The Procharger cooler your running is vertical core. Equivalent to the Treadstone TRV25.

Should work well, and for minimal pressure drop (less than 2psi @ 1400CFM)

Good Deal.............:rockon:

Helomech74 · Jul 12, 2012

Personally, I'd keep the one you have on there if you didn't opt for a larger vertical flow piece. The Procharger one you have is a nice vertical flow unit with decent cores. As an example, I've pushed the standard cast tank Procharger 3 core into the 800+ range and it worked perfectly fine (Although it was starting to be come a restriction). If you go for a larger intercooler, I would look for one similar to the Procharger one you have, but with a thicker core, maybe 3.5 to 4". You can always log the pressure before the intercooler and then after to see if it's becoming a restriction or not.

98blownsnake · Jul 12, 2012

I am running a 83t lower with the ATI 45t Super pulley, fully ported B heads and a sheetmetal Procharger intercooler 21 psi at 6800 rpm's 687 rwhp. I will spin it up with a 88t lower and should see 27-28 and 800rw.Look at the pics on HPJ in the Fastlane vendor section. They built the motor and I did all the install of the motor, T56 Magnum,3 Walbro 392 pumps with a hidden sump setup and built the rear. I had to move the radiator about 3" forward and remove the AC condenser to make all fit. No room for a filter on the F1a so Walmart SS strainer $3.99 works great.Coolant tube will have to be modified and the neck going to the rad. moved back about 1". Coil brackets will have to modified and install a BAS from Kenne Bell.Looks like a few people on here know what the they are talking about with this setup like encasedmetal,helomech74,littlemags and myself. Give them a shout and I am sure they will help with any questions.WOW, I am still adding up all my receipts from this build.

91svtcoupe · Jul 13, 2012

98blownsnake said:
I am running a 83t lower with the ATI 45t Super pulley, fully ported B heads and a sheetmetal Procharger intercooler 21 psi at 6800 rpm's 687 rwhp. I will spin it up with a 88t lower and should see 27-28 and 800rw.Look at the pics on HPJ in the Fastlane vendor section. They built the motor and I did all the install of the motor, T56 Magnum,3 Walbro 392 pumps with a hidden sump setup and built the rear. I had to move the radiator about 3" forward and remove the AC condenser to make all fit. No room for a filter on the F1a so Walmart SS strainer $3.99 works great.Coolant tube will have to be modified and the neck going to the rad. moved back about 1". Coil brackets will have to modified and install a BAS from Kenne Bell.Looks like a few people on here know what the they are talking about with this setup like encasedmetal,helomech74,littlemags and myself. Give them a shout and I am sure they will help with any questions.WOW, I am still adding up all my receipts from this build.

yes I pm you the other day on HPJ, nice build.

I'm aware of most of the modifications that will have to be made. My biggest concern on my Fox is having enough room for the radiator. I measured last night and its going to fit fine. But I will have to find a radiator to fit under the stock support.

My coolant crossover has already been modified so that will save me some work. Then next I'm switching over to COP so I hope I want need any type of extra spark?

What do you guys think? COP be enough?

Helomech74 · Jul 13, 2012

I personally think the stock coil packs are better then COPs, but I prefer the COP setup because of the cleanliness of the engine bay after the install. I've ran the COP setup on mine with 28psi and no issues at all. I run BR7EF plugs usually gapped at around .25-.28. I'm eventually going to switch to BS3 or FAST and run LS coils instead, but that's going to be much later on, no need to switch yet.

98blownsnake · Jul 13, 2012

Run the stock coil packs under the intake to clean up the engine I had planned on doing this if I get some extra time to. You can also run the Kenne Bell BAS under the intake.I am running the plugs @ .035 with the BAS.I ran the stock radiator and if it didn't over heat in 108 with 115 heat index it never will.I ran the car in town stop and go traffic for about 10 miles and no problems.Look for TTSalleen on here he mounted the coil packs, BAS under the intake and he is making about 1100rw.

91svtcoupe · Jul 15, 2012

98blownsnake said:
Run the stock coil packs under the intake to clean up the engine I had planned on doing this if I get some extra time to. You can also run the Kenne Bell BAS under the intake.I am running the plugs @ .035 with the BAS.I ran the stock radiator and if it didn't over heat in 108 with 115 heat index it never will.I ran the car in town stop and go traffic for about 10 miles and no problems.Look for TTSalleen on here he mounted the coil packs, BAS under the intake and he is making about 1100rw.

I've already bought the COP Conversion, and COP's also Im in the process of getting My COP Cam Covers painted now. So Im going to go ahead and do the swap. I think for the whole car it will just clean it up.

I measured everything out yesterday. Its going to be extremely close. Ive been looking for smaller radiators. I might have room for a thin 2 core, but more than likely Im going to have to lean it forward some under the upper support and make some brackets. Looking like this somewhat.

Helomech74 said:
Mind you, the ring is only used to center the pulley up concentrically on the damper. Once all the hardware is installed and torqued down, the ring is removed (it's basically just a tool used to center the pulley.) Hope that helps you visualize what the centering ring is and how it works.

I don't have this part. So......Do I need to source one from Procharger? or can I do with out?

Its removed after the install correct?

also are you the one that made the Crank Pulley support system on Modularfords?

Helomech74 · Jul 15, 2012

You're going to need that part to make sure the pulley is installed correctly on the damper. If you don't use it, there's a chance for vibration and belt shredding. Yes, once you have the pulley torqued down, you remove the centering ring.

I'm not the one that made that crank support on Mod fords, but I'm in the process of reproducing that one for myself. If you need info on that support get in touch with Dominic (Littlemags) on that forum or on Mach1registry. I already have the mandrel, bearing/block and my stand offs, just need to fabricate the front plate and I'll be good to go. I have the contact info for the guy that actually machined all the parts for Littlemags crank support if you want it. He said he coule reproduce it, but I never got a price from him.

91svtcoupe · Jul 17, 2012

Double Keyed Crank? A have too? or just a good precautionary measure?

Again this car at this time want see any track time.

Just the occasional snort down a country road.

encasedmetal · Jul 17, 2012

91svtcoupe said:
Double Keyed Crank? A have too? or just a good precautionary measure?

Again this car at this time want see any track time.

Just the occasional snort down a country road.

double keyed is a no no. weakens the snout. billet crank or rekeying the cobra crank with stronger stock and elongating the keyway is what I did. no problems and retains the original strength. I really haven't seen alot of problems with the cranks as the 4.0 whipples have. of course if I could do a gear drive for the street I certainly would

Helomech74 · Jul 17, 2012

Don't double key the stock crank. As stated, it weakens an already weak snout. If you want to double key the crank, get a billet crank and have it double keyed (That's what I did.) It's always important to remember, the keys are not what drives the gear, they are just used to locate the parts. The clamp load created by the crank bolt is what holds it all. A good alternative is to do the 9/16" stud mod to the stock cobra crank. There's a write up on Mod Fords in the 03/04 Cobra section that discusses this in depth. I believe the article is called "crank tech" or something along those lines. It even lists the part numbers for the stuff needed and a diagram for the machine shop to use. I would seriously consider doing the stud mod if you have the engine apart. Even if you don't have the engine apart, I would at least pull the crank and have it done, no rebalance required. Doing the mod will strengthen the snout and create a much higher clamp load without putting more stress on an already weak snout.

91svtcoupe · Aug 21, 2012

Hope to have this started on this week. I have been waiting on a few things.

I'm waiting on my ATI Damper

I was planning on getting the center ring mentioned but here was the reply from Procharger:

"The centering ring is for the SBC. I talk to our motorsports manager and he said the cog pulley should lineup with the ATI damper."

any ideas on this guys?

Helomech74 · Aug 21, 2012

The cog pulley does line up with the bolt holes on the ATI Damper, but there is still play which allows the pulley to move around (the holes in the pulley are larger diameter then the bolts that hold it down). The ring centers the pulley on the damper while you tighten the bolts, then removed once installed. I use it as I want to make sure the pulley is perfectly aligned with the crank center line. I'm sure you can give it a shot and see if you're happy with it or not.

98blownsnake · Aug 21, 2012

91SVTCOUPE PM me I will work something out with you to borrow mine. Maybe a returnable deposit plus a small shipping fee ????? I waited 4 months before I received my centering ring from HOB/Procharger.I will need it back in a month I am going with an 88t lower to up the boost to about 27 psi for 800rw ??????????? I am making 21 with the 83t lower and made 687rw.

slowassgt · Aug 22, 2012

Bump can't wait to see this setup together. Your car is Bad ass

91svtcoupe · Aug 28, 2012

Well I bolted it all up tonight to get a feel for what type of Radiator I was going to need and figure out a few other things.

This was Just a test fit, below is a list of items I will need to cover when doing the final install.

Things to cover:

1) Clean and Paint Timing Cover Satin Black
2) Replace Innovative West Dampener with a ATI
3) Purchase a Moroso or other type Alum PS Reservoir
4) Shorten PS Return Line
5) Replace Valve Covers with COP design
6) Paint or Finish Polishing upper intake
7) Find a Custom Radiator

On to the pictures now. Actually everything fit very well and will look nice I do believe when polished up and painted. (Sorry about the quality)

Tear down:

New Brackets:

Custom Coolant Cross Over:

Need a Custom Radiator

Be awesome to fit this in: Intake pipe for Blower, However that means a custom built radiator more than likely to move around this: not sure its possible