Procharger F1C Cog System too much for a MMR 900

91svtcoupe

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Helomech has a F1c or a F2m 4v in his fox body- can't remember which. so ask him about dimensions there. the f1 blowers do rotate like the others- you just have to make sure that you reclock the oil slinger gear so that it is in the bottom of the blower case once mounted. F1a and F1c outlets are 3" ID but I suggest 3.5" which I have talked to procharger about and it'll work just fine. I use 3" from blower to IC, and 3.5" from IC to TB.

Im using 3" from Blower to innnercooler and then 3" to TB, Im also using a VMP 3" Meter. I have the Big Red Closed version Blow off right now also.
 

mtrsprt

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There's no gain going from 3" to 3.5" in any application under 1200hp. Most of the compressors volutes have a 3" discharge anyway. Most of Kurgans cars, and big HP turbo setups are in the 1200-1400hp range still running 3"

The pressure side is far less detrimental than the inlet side when it comes to piping diameter.
 

encasedmetal

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There's no gain going from 3" to 3.5" in any application under 1200hp. Most of the compressors volutes have a 3" discharge anyway. Most of Kurgans cars, and big HP turbo setups are in the 1200-1400hp range still running 3"

The pressure side is far less detrimental than the inlet side when it comes to piping diameter.

maf range is limited in 3" tubing however. there is much to gain in maf resolution by utilizing 3.5" tubing post IC.
 

mtrsprt

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maf range is limited in 3" tubing however. there is much to gain in maf resolution by utilizing 3.5" tubing post IC.
Now this is true. However also (LOL), there are many MAF sensor applications that can offer the range needed for upwards of 1000hp in a 3" tube...

My Pro-M sensor in a 3" tube was still holding on @ 775rwhp. I heard the slot style had even more range.
 

91svtcoupe

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7) IW balancer will not work. You have to get an ATI - I ordered mine and they made it.

You got a part number on your ATI?

Did you do a Cog set up? I was looking through your thread and didn't see it?

Question? could I just use a serpentine belt if I bought the pulleys? and then use my Innovative West
 

encasedmetal

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You got a part number on your ATI?

Did you do a Cog set up? I was looking through your thread and didn't see it?

Question? could I just use a serpentine belt if I bought the pulleys? and then use my Innovative West

aren't you glad I keep most of my records in my email and can access them easily? lol
ati 918036 = Mustang Cobra Balancer

I have the cog setup but it's not installed. I am using my 8 rib bracket until i decide to move on to the f1c. there are different front plates and tensioners for the cog and serpentine drive setups. You cannot use your IW with either setup period. with the ati the outer serp crank pulley will bolt to the front and with the cog pulley there is a hub that goes on the front of the crank pulley.
 

91svtcoupe

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aren't you glad I keep most of my records in my email and can access them easily? lol
ati 918036 = Mustang Cobra Balancer

I have the cog setup but it's not installed. I am using my 8 rib bracket until i decide to move on to the f1c. there are different front plates and tensioners for the cog and serpentine drive setups. You cannot use your IW with either setup period. with the ati the outer serp crank pulley will bolt to the front and with the cog pulley there is a hub that goes on the front of the crank pulley.

Okay thanks a lot, Since I cant use mine dampener either way, I will probably just run the Cog set up.

I will have pictures maybe up tonight so I can see what all I have and what I need.
 

Helomech74

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There isn't a hub for the crank pulley to bolt to the ATI damper. It bolts on using 3 bolts, that's it. You will need 1/4" longer bolts then the ones suppled by ATI to attach the cog pulley to the damper. I used ARP 642-1750, if you use a crank support (Which I highly recommend) you will need bolts which are 1/2" longer then the ones supplied by ATI, the ARP number for those are 642-2000. They need to be longer to pass through the support mandrel and the crank pulley into the ATI damper. I modified my ATi damper to accept 6 bolts to hold the crank pulley on as opposed to the 3 that would normally hold it on. I also had my crank support mandrel drilled to allow 6 bolts as well. If you buy your Cog bracket kit used, make sure it has the centering ring for bolting the crank pulley onto the ATI damper. It's just a ring that slides in center of the pulley to align it concentrically to the balancer.
 
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encasedmetal

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There isn't a hub for the crank pulley to bolt to the ATI damper. It bolts on using 3 bolts, that's it. You will need 1/4" longer bolts then the ones suppled by ATI to attach the cog pulley to the damper. I used ARP 642-1750, if you use a crank support (Which I highly recommend) you will need bolts which are 1/2" longer then the ones supplied by ATI, the ARP number for those are 642-2000. They need to be longer to pass through the support mandrel and the crank pulley into the ATI damper. I modified my ATi damper to accept 6 bolts to hold the crank pulley on as opposed to the 3 that would normally hold it on. I also had my crank support mandrel drilled to allow 6 bolts as well. If you buy your Cog bracket kit used, make sure it has the centering ring for bolting the crank pulley onto the ATI damper. It's just a ring that slides in center of the pulley to align it concentrically to the balancer.

I mispoke and meant the centering ring when I said hub- sorry. not needed for the serp outer crank pulley.
 

Helomech74

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Yeah, the pulley is just a pulley. The centering ring would come with all the brackets as a kit. It would be (or should be) included with a new bracket setup. Usually if you buy a used setup this piece would most likely be missing as it's easy to misplace. I'll see if I can snap a picture of you along with how it works.
 

Helomech74

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Ok, I went out to the shop and snapped a couple pics for you. The first few pics are what the centering ring looks like and last couple are what it looks like when it's in place. Disregard the scratches on the centering ring, it's been used a few times.

The smaller tapered side goes into the ATI damper, the larger side is the centering part for the pulley.
P1010600.gif


This is looking towards the larger side of the centering ring
P1010601.gif


A side view of the ring
P1010602.gif


A cog pulley installed on the damper (I use 6 bolts as opposed to 3, but only installed 3 for the picture)
P1010604.gif


Kind of showing where the ring goes:
P1010607.gif


The ring installed
P1010608.gif


Mind you, the ring is only used to center the pulley up concentrically on the damper. Once all the hardware is installed and torqued down, the ring is removed (it's basically just a tool used to center the pulley.) Hope that helps you visualize what the centering ring is and how it works.
 
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91svtcoupe

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Ok, Mind you, the ring is only used to center the pulley up concentrically on the damper. Once all the hardware is installed and torqued down, the ring is removed (it's basically just a tool used to center the pulley.) Hope that helps you visualize what the centering ring is and how it works.

Perfect. Nope I don't have that piece, Maybe I can order one, I suppose its an easy piece to leave out when purchasing a kit used.

Thanks again
 

91svtcoupe

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My Polished Procharger F1C with 38 Tooth Cog Pulley

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Two Belts and a Guard

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Treadstone Innercooler TR12 1200hp rated

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Open Polished Procharger (Too Loud for my liking)

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03-04 COP Covers for a much needed conversion and clean up of the engine bay

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Killer Chrome powder coated Brackets

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70 tooth Cog Crank Pulley and Idle Pulley

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Piping I probably want use:

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But would look sweet except Im a B Head Motor so My intake is different.

MOTOR.jpg
 
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Helomech74

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Looks good, I remember when that setup was originally for sale (the coolant cross over and the piping are a dead giveaway.) Looks damn good and will certainly support you goals. If you have any questions during install feel free to ask. I've done this a couple times and I know a few other folks have too, certainly not just a bolt on deal, there are some modifications that need to be done.

How does that belt guard work? I don't think I've seen that one before. That pulley combo should have the blower spinning around 70K at 7K rpm, so it's going to make a good bit of power.
 

91svtcoupe

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Looks good, I remember when that setup was originally for sale (the coolant cross over and the piping are a dead giveaway.) Looks damn good and will certainly support you goals. If you have any questions during install feel free to ask. I've done this a couple times and I know a few other folks have too, certainly not just a bolt on deal, there are some modifications that need to be done.

How does that belt guard work? I don't think I've seen that one before. That pulley combo should have the blower spinning around 70K at 7K rpm, so it's going to make a good bit of power.

Thanks, Yea I looked back at the for sale threads just to make sure it was all legit and so far it seems good. I was real impressed when I went to pick it up. A guy in NC about an hour from me ended up with it so that was a real plus.

I prob will have some questions. I think I found an ATI balancer so that's really all I am waiting on before I start tearing my down. I want to have most of the parts in place. I need to measure before I order my radiator, and make any decisions about piping.

I ordered my Conversion COP harness yesterday and some COP new from Ford
The coolant crossover tube was a nice surprise, I wasn't expecting it
If I can just get it bolted up and rotate the blower to see how its going to fit and what room I have left.

I'm going to try and get by with my fuel set up to start with but then I will probably up grade it also when I get ready to go big.


What do you think boost will be?

and I thought I'd dummy everything up on a timing cover I have to see how the blower belt guard works. I just assumed that's what it was. lol
 

Helomech74

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Yep, that's the one I was thinking of.

That blowers max RPM is 74K if I remember correctly and spinning it to 70K should put you around 22-24psi depending on the rest of the setup. I think your intercooler is going to be a restriction (centri blowers work much better with vertical flow intercoolers as opposed to horizontal like the one you have.) I would have used the TRV25 at a minimum, preferably the TRV259 (Not a lot of space in the Fox coupe though, so that one would require lots of trimming.) I made a small vertical flow radiator out of Bell cores that flows 1900+ cfm and it's a nice small package, I eventually switched to a A/W setup since my coupe was turned into a drag car.

I run my head unit in the same orientation, albeit with the discharge a little more level. I ran the discharge though the passenger side fender and down to the intercooler, then brought the outlet side to the throttle body back up the same way (My intercooler has inlet and outlet on the same side.) I ran the BOV in the engine bay right off of the discharge pipe.
 

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