Pace setter long tubes or bassani mid lengths

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5.0calypso93lx

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boost88 said:
Unfortunately this is all I've gotView attachment 1745632

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Thanks for sending! I have no idea what brand headers I had before, but I ordered up an actual set of Pacesetters from Jegs last week and they are much better. I did have to clearance the Team Z k a tad on the passenger side but they fit much better than what I had.
 
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5.0calypso93lx

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boost88 said:
this is the video. He has a few more videos on the header install like a series.

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I also watched this video and he mentioned he didn't have to do any clearancing for the steering shaft. I already have my headers clearance on the passenger side to fit around the k member, but hven't done anything on the driver side. Did you have to do any clearancing on the driver side?
 
scottg

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Hey Boost, just looking over this thread, are you saying a pacesetter xpipe won’t work with pacesetter long tubes on a 98 cobra? If so, you’re saying you have to basically build an xpipe? Would you buy pacesetters again ?
 
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Id definitely do it again. However ive got the ability to weld and fab up my own stuff. A BBK set that would fit costs 1200 bucks and that's just the chrome version. My advice would be the following for anyone wanting to do it:

1. weld on a v band flange to the headers prior to installing. the slip on flanges leak and are hot garbage.
2. pre dent and cut based on the videos i sent from YT(fairly accurate)
3. Weld up all the EGR and SAI pump fittings prior if you choose to delete it all
4. Hack up you pre existing x or h and use that as your mid pipe. (fab work required)
5. coat them with the autozone ceramic header coating its been on a year for me and no issues

the price of BBK/ARH/KOOKS isn't worth it to me. the power wont be any different. You could have these done and installed yourself just like i mentioned for sub 500 bucks and the results will be just as good.
 
scottg

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boost88 said:
Id definitely do it again. However ive got the ability to weld and fab up my own stuff. A BBK set that would fit costs 1200 bucks and that's just the chrome version. My advice would be the following for anyone wanting to do it:

1. weld on a v band flange to the headers prior to installing. the slip on flanges leak and are hot garbage.
2. pre dent and cut based on the videos i sent from YT(fairly accurate)
3. Weld up all the EGR and SAI pump fittings prior if you choose to delete it all
4. Hack up you pre existing x or h and use that as your mid pipe. (fab work required)
5. coat them with the autozone ceramic header coating its been on a year for me and no issues

the price of BBK/ARH/KOOKS isn't worth it to me. the power wont be any different. You could have these done and installed yourself just like i mentioned for sub 500 bucks and the results will be just as good.
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Thank you for the reply. This encourages me to get a set and save some money. I've never done a job this big but I have confidence in getting the kmember out so at that point it's time to play. Are there any other fitment issues with the headers for the steering shaft? If I do all of this trouble i will be going to a UPR kmember most likely as well so maybe get to avoid the trimming of the body itself part. Also, do these headers allow you to do clutch work without removal? That's probably the biggest selling point.

Oh do you have a picture of a vband welded on? Like welded onto the slip fit part itself? Or any pics? I wouldn't be doing this part but i would have to have someone capable of this.
 
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scottg said:
Thank you for the reply. This encourages me to get a set and save some money. I've never done a job this big but I have confidence in getting the kmember out so at that point it's time to play. Are there any other fitment issues with the headers for the steering shaft? If I do all of this trouble i will be going to a UPR kmember most likely as well so maybe get to avoid the trimming of the body itself part. Also, do these headers allow you to do clutch work without removal? That's probably the biggest selling point.

Oh do you have a picture of a vband welded on? Like welded onto the slip fit part itself? Or any pics? I wouldn't be doing this part but i would have to have someone capable of this.
Click to expand...

I would definitely recommend going k memeber at this time if you're gonna do it. I didn't have the budget for it. Just remember the need for those coil overs or spring perches. As far as clearance goes the steering shaft and body will require clearance. I have attached a pic of the passenger side. It's where the k memeber bolts to.

Now for the v bands. I purchased a 3 inch v band in carbon steel.(headers are carbon steel) 2PCS 3" INCH V-BAND CLAMP & FLANGES KIT MILD STEEL Downpipe Intercooler Turbo | eBay here is the link for the those. Also you will need a 3 inch to 2.5 inch exhaust reducer for each side. You will weld one side of the v band to the collector of the header and one to the 3 inch side of the adapter. Here's a shot of that too. The 3 inch will clear its tight but won't make contact with the body. And yes I know it's ugly lol I had to flux core wire weld them under the car because I didn't plan ahead! If you have more questions I'll do my best to help

Bonus: also pictured are the adapters I made to fit a bassani x pipe
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scottg

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Thank you so much. I really, really don't like the idea of cutting off part of the body itself, do you think "massaging" the tube would be enough?
 
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5.0calypso93lx

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I wasn't as lucky as Boost88. I had a lot of clearance issues on the passenger side with the outer primary tube and the frame rail. I had to heat up and wack that outer primary quite a bit to get it to clear. I also had the same issue with the corner of the body on the passenger side where the K member bolts to. I have a Team Z K member and Prothane motor mounts. I had plenty of issues with the K member as well with the oil pan sitting on the main bar. I personally wish I would have spent the extra coin on some better designed headers as I spent hours and hours checking everything, pulling it back out, clearancing, checking again, having to have an x pipe made because the Pacesetter one doesn't clear our trans X members and the junk slip fit connections like boost88 mentioned.
 
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I ended up selling the PS's. They never ended up fitting well at all and rubbed in multiple places. Those areas needed more clearance than I was willing to do so I sold them to someone swapping a motor into a Bronco. This was also with a Team Z K member. Ended up getting a set of the Bassani Mid Lengths and X and just the install of them onto the heads is so much easier than the PS's.
 

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