Ordered VMP TVS2300 SC Kit!

jojobee

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Congrats, it will be awesome im sure.

75mm on the stock bottom end, you have bigger ba..s than me :)
I got the same components but bought it in pieces so with this will save you some $$.

I really look forward to see what kind of power you'll make higher in the range, the ID725 are a big part of the equation here.
 
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zachcrosen

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I was actually going to go with the 72mm pulley but justin told me to do the 75mm instead.

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acrbill

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I read somewhere once that you can use the stock airbox to limit boost. That might be just the ticket if you do get worried about too much boost (which you don't seem to be)
 

zachcrosen

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I read somewhere once that you can use the stock airbox to limit boost. That might be just the ticket if you do get worried about too much boost (which you don't seem to be)

From what justin told me, that sounds correct. I told him I wanted the hp and tq to be similar and he told me that you keep the stock airbox to limit the hp and to get the tq and hp closer together. So I thought that keeping it actually raised the tq but it limits the hp. I've seen many guys running over 700rwhp in these cars and not heard of a blown engine due to 650-700rwhp. I have read of the cylinder walls cracking where the water jacket is but that'd on higher hp cars from what I remember.

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Going for broke

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Nice! I seen that kit as well and in getting that you will be able to take that setup past the limits of your stock engine. Have fun with it!
 

Doug1227

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I'm gonna guess that gets you closer to 700rwhp! I've been eye-boning this same kit with a CF JLT and 82mm pulley... looking for 620-640rwhp or so and 550rwtq. We just got back from vacation this week, so hopefully SOON!
 

Sinful_5.0

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I'm looking at this kit as well (take delivery of my 2014 on 03/04) and it seems to be a great alternative to the Roush kit. Best price (that I've seen) on a Roush is ~$5,400 for the tuner kit + $350 for JLT + $850 for ID1000s = $6600. With the VMP kit you get the better H/E, plug-n-play harnesses, CNC porting, and a 2nd pulley for essentially $399.

I'm in Vegas and will be running E85 (will need the ID1000s). I plan to stick with the 82mm pulley and try to get to 600rwhp as safely as possible (hoping the E85 will help in this regard).

Now if I only had a reputable shop here in So. Nevada to install it :rolleyes:


Keep us posted on your build!
 

alex12gt

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To give you an idea with a stock pulley and jlt i put down 575hp with an o/r x i then switched to a 79mm pulley and saw about 12lbs but never got it back on the dyno (thanks to a bent axle) my new setup that im working on getting in the car looks like......

11:1 aluminator (dont have the balls to pop a motor so i swapped before i did)
Mmr oil pump gears
Pypes long tubes
L&m 66mm tb
Jlt intake
Id1000s
Lfp heat exchanger

Car will stay on the stock pulley for break in and then not sure what pulley i will go with
But the goal is 700hp......

Really interested in what the ported inlet and ported elbow are worth
 

SILV03MustangGT

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I'm looking at this kit as well (take delivery of my 2014 on 03/04) and it seems to be a great alternative to the Roush kit. Best price (that I've seen) on a Roush is ~$5,400 for the tuner kit + $350 for JLT + $850 for ID1000s = $6600. With the VMP kit you get the better H/E, plug-n-play harnesses, CNC porting, and a 2nd pulley for essentially $399.

I'm in Vegas and will be running E85 (will need the ID1000s). I plan to stick with the 82mm pulley and try to get to 600rwhp as safely as possible (hoping the E85 will help in this regard).

Now if I only had a reputable shop here in So. Nevada to install it :rolleyes:


Keep us posted on your build!

I made 669/581 on E85 with 82mm pulley (remaining mods in sig) Im sure youll have no problem.


The VMP kit is badass lots of awesome stuff put in a one stop shop! If it were around when I got my kit I wouldve most likely gone this route (keeping my AED tune of course lol)
 

grnenvy

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Hmm

I know Justin pretty good and he doesn't steer anyone the wrong way.
If your looking for a certain pwr number then thats what he gave u.
Hmm did u talk to him about longevity?


I spoke with justin and he said he was running I believe the same pulley when they took the heads off and it looked brand new. I went back and forth with him before I made the purchase and this was his recommendation. We shall see.

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zachcrosen

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I know Justin pretty good and he doesn't steer anyone the wrong way.
If your looking for a certain pwr number then thats what he gave u.
Hmm did u talk to him about longevity?

I do but that is going to change. Debating between the 3.55s or the stock 3.31s. I probably wont touch gears until I get the blower installed but they are on the radar.

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alex12gt

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I do but that is going to change. Debating between the 3.55s or the stock 3.31s. I probably wont touch gears until I get the blower installed but they are on the radar.

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Had 373s and went to 331s but havnt had much driving time on them
 

jojobee

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To give you an idea with a stock pulley and jlt i put down 575hp with an o/r x i then switched to a 79mm pulley and saw about 12lbs but never got it back on the dyno (thanks to a bent axle) my new setup that im working on getting in the car looks like......

11:1 aluminator (dont have the balls to pop a motor so i swapped before i did)
Mmr oil pump gears
Pypes long tubes
L&m 66mm tb
Jlt intake
Id1000s
Lfp heat exchanger

Car will stay on the stock pulley for break in and then not sure what pulley i will go with
But the goal is 700hp......

Really interested in what the ported inlet and ported elbow are worth

Not sure i saw that info in you build thread but what are you doing for fuel beside ID's ?

I just got an interesting response from JDM saying that for my setup (same as op + LT) i would need to move to a return style fuel system to go above 600rwhp towards 700.

Strangely enough there are many svt members above 600 with only injectors and/or bap


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jojobee

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I do but that is going to change. Debating between the 3.55s or the stock 3.31s. I probably wont touch gears until I get the blower installed but they are on the radar.

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I have 3.73 and you will not find any grip in first and second with your setup, im strongly considering switching to 3.31 or 3.15.


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alex12gt

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Not sure i saw that info in you build thread but what are you doing for fuel beside ID's ?

I just got an interesting response from JDM saying that for my setup (same as op + LT) i would need to move to a return style fuel system to go above 600rwhp towards 700.

Strangely enough there are many svt members above 600 with only injectors and/or bap


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Id1000 and bap ive been told by a good handful of shops ill be good at 700 going over starts to push it
 

grnenvy

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Fuel

I'm not a huge fan of aftermarket fuel systems on a Daily Driver. I have never had good luck with them. Seems something always goes wrong at the worse possible time. FPDM goes bad, fuse pops, gas smell coming from the car now, one of the multi relays u have to run now go bad ect ect. A reliable high mileage fuel system isn't easy to build. But then again aftermarket systems have changed alot in 4-5 years.
With a big inj and voltage booster if my memory serves me right I believe
Justin told me I would be good up to 700rwhp and with race gas even more.
Do some more investigating talk to VMP before u buy something u may never need.
Good luck

Not sure i saw that info in you build thread but what are you doing for fuel beside ID's ?

I just got an interesting response from JDM saying that for my setup (same as op + LT) i would need to move to a return style fuel system to go above 600rwhp towards 700.

Strangely enough there are many svt members above 600 with only injectors and/or bap


Envoyé de mon iPad à l'aide de Tapatalk HD
 
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