What does the 500 driveline need in order to survive a 742rwhp/700tq launch on drag radials?
Operation HARD LAUNCH
- Thread starter svtmadman
- Start date
She still has the OEM clutch, 2pc. drive shaft and 3.73 gears on street tires. I just know when the tires get serious the parts will fly...I need a 1pc DS, some sort of clutch and??
I typically slip it but who knows when Im pushed by the guy in the other lane...
You may want to look into a Aluminum DS and a upgraded clutch. RXT, and a Shaftmaster was my weapons of choice.
Also you will want new LCA's of your choice. That will help stop wheel hop. Of course yo could go further with things like UCA's and other parts.
Also you will want new LCA's of your choice. That will help stop wheel hop. Of course yo could go further with things like UCA's and other parts.
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It won't stick hard enough on DR's and stock suspension to break things.
You might checkmout my vids from vegas last month on the 275 DR, these tires stick better than slicks.
You tube -Worlds fastest S/C GT 500/ cobra jet.
Good luck Mark
You're going to break the rear end and drivetrain one piece at a time until you replace everything. You need something with a good bit of sidewall.
Mark,
No doubt you and many others are crushing the 60' with DR's. I don't see this happening on stock suspension on a 2008. Do you?
Ben
You Clutch will not be able to go through the burnout and launch cycle probably more than a couple times with it being stock. My stock clutch went bad in three times down the track. But every every vehicle is different, you may have a lucky clutch:shrug:
starters: axles, clutch, control arms....
starters: axles, clutch, control arms....
What tire are you guys liking on 20s?
NT05Rs or MT ET STreet IIs
-J
-J
Like on 275/60/15
Now if run on 20's with that power , the only thing you will be breaking is the the tires breaking loose.
I think rdsnk who had a 07-09 was running low 10's- high 9's on a factory clutch before selling his car
Wasn't that an '11?
The life of drivetrain parts really depends on a few things. Gearing, clutch, tires, and weight.
Gearing can make or break a clutch. 4.10's and 4.30's are a LOT easier on clutches/trannies/driveshafts, but much tougher on axles and diffs. 3.27's and 3.31's are hell on clutches/trannies/driveshafts, but much easier on axles and diffs.
Clutches like the stock one (which I run), are much easier on powertrain parts as they have a little give on launch and shifts. Aftermarket clutches like Spec are very "on/off" and can shock the drivetrain resulting in broken parts. But, they'll also provide better ET's, and 60' times when compared with stock.
As mentioned, large wrinkle wall tires don't shock the powertrain as hard as a stiff drag radial. Drag radials can wheel hop also, which can (will) break everything.
Heavy cars like stock weight GT500's launching with 700-800hp are hard to get moving. Weak links are found. Dropping some weight equals less mass to get moving, and will help extend the life of the powertrain.
Weak links are typically the axles, diff, and driveshaft. Also in some peoples cases, the clutch. The key to clutch life is DON'T SLIP IT. I'm running a stock '12 clutch, and my car makes 800hp. I also run 4.10 gears which helps. I never slip the clutch, I broke it in properly, and it's performed flawlessly to a 10.30@137. I intend on taking it well into the 9's in the spring. We'll see if it holds. As of right now, it still looks brand new.
This is my clutch as of last night, stock '12 clutch with 5,000 miles on it, and a whole season of mid-low 10 sec quarter mile times. This may not mean much to some, but this clutch/disc/flywheel still look new. They shouldn't look like this after what I have put it through:
Gearing can make or break a clutch. 4.10's and 4.30's are a LOT easier on clutches/trannies/driveshafts, but much tougher on axles and diffs. 3.27's and 3.31's are hell on clutches/trannies/driveshafts, but much easier on axles and diffs.
Clutches like the stock one (which I run), are much easier on powertrain parts as they have a little give on launch and shifts. Aftermarket clutches like Spec are very "on/off" and can shock the drivetrain resulting in broken parts. But, they'll also provide better ET's, and 60' times when compared with stock.
As mentioned, large wrinkle wall tires don't shock the powertrain as hard as a stiff drag radial. Drag radials can wheel hop also, which can (will) break everything.
Heavy cars like stock weight GT500's launching with 700-800hp are hard to get moving. Weak links are found. Dropping some weight equals less mass to get moving, and will help extend the life of the powertrain.
Weak links are typically the axles, diff, and driveshaft. Also in some peoples cases, the clutch. The key to clutch life is DON'T SLIP IT. I'm running a stock '12 clutch, and my car makes 800hp. I also run 4.10 gears which helps. I never slip the clutch, I broke it in properly, and it's performed flawlessly to a 10.30@137. I intend on taking it well into the 9's in the spring. We'll see if it holds. As of right now, it still looks brand new.
This is my clutch as of last night, stock '12 clutch with 5,000 miles on it, and a whole season of mid-low 10 sec quarter mile times. This may not mean much to some, but this clutch/disc/flywheel still look new. They shouldn't look like this after what I have put it through:
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Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
Hey svtmadman! Have not seen you around these parts in a while.
You definitely need a one piece DS.
Suspension wise we've done a lot of BMR components and my dead hooker spring kit that have had guys cut high 1.3 to 1.5 60' times.
Give me a call to discuss.
Van
561-445-7702
Exactly. I've never gone quicker on slicks as I have on M&H radials. If you can't break crap on those, you're bulletproof.
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