oil changes after blown head gasket?

Cobra03SC

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I agree, you will only do more damage. If you re-used the old head bolts then that may be the issue, but im betting the head needs to be decked and its slightly warped so you arnt getting a good seal.
 

SVT_Troy

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I agree, you will only do more damage. If you re-used the old head bolts then that may be the issue, but im betting the head needs to be decked and its slightly warped so you arnt getting a good seal.

Thats my bet as well which is why I highly recommend the motor be pulled and inspected properly. It really sucks having high hp cars as DD's. My car just hit over a year on jack stands last week :nonono:
 

dark-knight

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I didnt re-use the head bolts. And if im not loosing coolant, wheres the milky oil coming from?
 

Mystic03

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thats a tough one...have you done a leak down could be the head bolts stretched or lifted from torquing down the others.
 

MalcolmV8

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I didnt re-use the head bolts. And if im not loosing coolant, wheres the milky oil coming from?

It could be a very small leak so you don't notice the coolant loss right away. Doesn't take much to turn the oil milky. Do a compression and leak down test and verify all cylinders are sealing well. It may be as simple as few oil changes, 10 miles a piece, and just getting all that crap flushed.

When you pulled the head to replace the gasket did you have it resurfaced to ensure it was square before reinstallation? I don't know why your first head gasket blew, over heating, to much boost etc. but typically a blown head gasket often also means head resurface needed.
 

Cobra03SC

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When you prepped...did you run old head bolt into block to push old oil out?

This is also a good point. A lot of times when a HG is blown, oil or coolant will get into the bolt/stud holes. If there is even a little bit in the hole, when you try to get the head bolts torqued down, the pressure of the fluid being in the hole can crack a block even with hand tools... It can create a extreme amount of pressure.
 

hotcobra03

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This is also a good point. A lot of times when a HG is blown, oil or coolant will get into the bolt/stud holes. If there is even a little bit in the hole, when you try to get the head bolts torqued down, the pressure of the fluid being in the hole can crack a block even with hand tools... It can create a extreme amount of pressure.
I did mine over fender..fn mess..I read about this being skipped and causing torque issue along with gasket not sealing from oil..
 

dark-knight

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results of compression test:

165- -145
150- -150
160- -185
150- -190

So i would say its safe to say the driverside head has to come off?
 

dark-knight

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nope. all my coolant wouldnt stay in the tank and one of the plugs was soaked in coolant. and when i drained the oil, it was milky. all the signs of a head gasket.
 

dark-knight

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Yea. So i guess the problem is on the drivers side. I should have the head off tomorrow and get some pics
 

dark-knight

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Also, anyone have any tips i should do when i put the new gasket on? Push the oil coolant out of the tty head bolt holes was good. Im gonna have the head checked and make sure its good and flat.
 

hotcobra03

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Also, anyone have any tips i should do when i put the new gasket on? Push the oil coolant out of the tty head bolt holes was good. Im gonna have the head checked and make sure its good and flat.

I took my head complete to machine shop..

they did a pressure test 1st..

than took apart and cut valves

than resurfaced head..

had 3 or so exhaust manifold bolt holes repaired..

ive had a couple head drop valve seat..

my last head had failed pressure test..crack in cyl 7 ..car showed all signs of a bad head gasket..

cost wasnt bad to have head done..

my heads have been off 4 times over 358k..never had block checked..

But I did see how much junk from just tare down will clog oiling system..

I highly suggest you pull engine this time and clean what you can inside oil pan..

I took all the tubes and oil cooler and cleaned all the junk..

I DIDNT TOUCH CRANK SHAFT OR SPRAY ANY TYPE OF ANY CLEANER..JUST A CLEAN RAG AND WIPE..

I only followed ford service manual..they had alot of footnotes for prep and assembly..

I did my engine solo in dirt driveway using tree branch as engine puller..

it was easy to do..with basic hand tools..lower caged pulley bolt is still the hardest part..

give a run down of what you removed completly from car to do head..

I found alot of short cuts during removal..as did many other members..
 

dark-knight

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Im pulling my head with the motor still in the car. Did it this way last month and it was pretty easy i think. The head will be off some time tonight and i can see if i can pin point the problem.
 

hotcobra03

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Im pulling my head with the motor still in the car. Did it this way last month and it was pretty easy i think. The head will be off some time tonight and i can see if i can pin point the problem.

Wish I took a pic...oil pick up screen on mine was at least 50% clogged with chunks of silicone from rtv spots on front cover and valve cover...

Ford did my first head over fender.

I pulled engine on 2nd head.

I did over fender on 3rd head

next will be pull engine..

to me it was nice to be able to pull over fender with longtube still attached to head..

But I worried about falling victim to low oil pressue caused from being lazy...

I just cant answer if after head is off..you can raise engine enough to pull oil pan
 

dark-knight

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yea, i pulled the head with my manifold still on. Just took the merge pipe off and had a good bit of room. heres some pics of the pistons and under the valvecover (NASTYYYY)

20140430_002936_zps0ffea9a4.jpg


under the valvecover:
20140429_231719_zpse52c96ee.jpg


Gotta clean turbo feed line and make sure my drain is clear of nasty stuff. gonna go through quite a bit of brake clean to get rid of all this stuff.
 

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