Pennzoil Ultra (API SN) will stomp Mobil 1 Extended Performance. If I didn't have Amsoil, I would use Ultra. Amsoil Signature Series is my first choice.
Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
- Start date
Hey Troy,
I followed your advice and replaced my GT transmission fluid which was the dual clutch TSB fluid for the Amsoil synchromesh.
At the same time i did relocation bracket and a Dynotech driveshaft.
My issue now is that i hear a lot more whine than before and could swear it comes from the transmission.
I dont think a driveshaft could do that.
Is it possible that from switching the dual clutch to MTF i could hear much more whine than before ?
You are the second person I've heard comment about this. The MT-82 Getrag is a noisy design, which is why originally Ford used heavy gear oil to quiet it down. It makes you wonder, what is in the dual clutch fluid that limits gear roll over noise.
Ford and their mysterious "additives" to quiet things like gear roll over and valve train tick.
If the noise is too much, I'd switch back to DCT fluid and test again. If that solves the issues, I am removing my recommendation for Synchromesh for use in this transmission.
I'll probably give it a try cause i want to know where that noise is coming from.
I just a shame to waste such a good product a pay for Motorcraft oil at full price.
I just a shame to waste such a good product a pay for Motorcraft oil at full price.
I would not remove it. I replaced ny DCT fluid with synchromesh and had no noise happen after.
My transmission shifted great before and made no noise prior to switching.
-Thomas
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I dont want to but if its not the fluid then what is it causing the whine suddenly ?
I would prefer not fight with the Ford dealer over transmission noise with all my mods so i need to be 100% sure beforehand.
I would prefer not fight with the Ford dealer over transmission noise with all my mods so i need to be 100% sure beforehand.
Finally got the analysis back. This was on Motorcraft 5w-20 mostly daily driving with 1 or 2 trips to the track and a few runs down the freeway. 
Royal Purple 5w-30 went in this change so that'll be the next one I send in. UnleashedBeast, is there a certain oil analysis company you prefer that maybe gives more information than others or will this suffice? Also, what's you take on my report? Thanks.
Royal Purple 5w-30 went in this change so that'll be the next one I send in. UnleashedBeast, is there a certain oil analysis company you prefer that maybe gives more information than others or will this suffice? Also, what's you take on my report? Thanks.
Finally got the analysis back. This was on Motorcraft 5w-20 mostly daily driving with 1 or 2 trips to the track and a few runs down the freeway.
Sorry is that
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (US)
XO-5W20-QSP (US)
Or
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (US)
XO-5W20-QFS (US)
I prefer to use Amsoil's testing kit. Shipping is prepaid, TBN and Oxidation testing is included for free, unlike Blackstone. They charge extra for TBN testing, and Oxidation testing isn't offered that I recall.
Amsoil's kit ships to Polaris Labs, an external third party lab.
Texican, I'd like to see your sample of Royal Purple 5W-30 when you change it (assuming you are talking about non-HPS Royal Purple). I hope it serves the Coyote better than it did a recent UOA from a Condor (5.4L GT500 engine). Everything looks average. Wear metal ppm was a bit higher than I expected and the lubricant did shear a little. You wouldn't expect a 5W-20 to shear, however....what could you expect from the cheap base stock Motorcraft semi-synthetic bought for less than $20.00 a gallon.
I have this UOA and others saved to my desktop, will have them added to the UOA chart asap. Thank you again.
Amsoil's kit ships to Polaris Labs, an external third party lab.
Texican, I'd like to see your sample of Royal Purple 5W-30 when you change it (assuming you are talking about non-HPS Royal Purple). I hope it serves the Coyote better than it did a recent UOA from a Condor (5.4L GT500 engine). Everything looks average. Wear metal ppm was a bit higher than I expected and the lubricant did shear a little. You wouldn't expect a 5W-20 to shear, however....what could you expect from the cheap base stock Motorcraft semi-synthetic bought for less than $20.00 a gallon.
I have this UOA and others saved to my desktop, will have them added to the UOA chart asap. Thank you again.
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Unleashed-
I'm currently running the AMO 10W-40 in my Boss 302. Mostly stock.
However, I am planning to put on a Single Turbo system and plan to do an occasional drag strip session with it. Would you recommend sticking with the AMO 10W-40 or trying AMSOIL's Dominator 10W-30 racing oil to help with the additional heat of the Turbo? How does the Dominator RD30QT compare to the ATM 10W-30 or the AMO 10W-40?
Thanks!
I'm currently running the AMO 10W-40 in my Boss 302. Mostly stock.
However, I am planning to put on a Single Turbo system and plan to do an occasional drag strip session with it. Would you recommend sticking with the AMO 10W-40 or trying AMSOIL's Dominator 10W-30 racing oil to help with the additional heat of the Turbo? How does the Dominator RD30QT compare to the ATM 10W-30 or the AMO 10W-40?
Thanks!
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OK guys I've got a question out of the norm that I know a lot of us may be wondering.
Which is the best between the Amsoil, standard Motorcraft, or Ford racing oil filter for our Coyotes? I've heard that the standard Motorcraft more than gets job the done. Thoughts
Which is the best between the Amsoil, standard Motorcraft, or Ford racing oil filter for our Coyotes? I've heard that the standard Motorcraft more than gets job the done. Thoughts
Also, has anyone had trouble with the dealership installing anything other than 5w-20 or 5w-30? I've got some Amsoil Signature 10w-30 and I'm wondering if the dealership will look at me sideways.
The idiots at mine said "you know Ford calls for 5-50 on the boss", etc. They even noted it on my service receipt, "not ford recommended oil"
Once the Turbo goes on, won't matter, but I thought it was funny. Just tell them to test the AMSOIL against their "recommended" oil and see what happens.
Synthetic Blend, I didn't notice that, sorry
My wife took the car in and they questioned her about it to the point where she called me to make sure. I just told her I didn't want their advice, just an oil change and rotate, lol. Like mentioned above, they'll probably just annotate that it wasn't the recommended oil.
I am removing Amsoil synchromesh today cause the whine is really annoying.
I am putting back Ford dct fluid and will know immediately if i wasted 100$ worth of fluid or not....
I'll report back later today with my findings.
I hear that DCT fluid is very expensive.
Here is what I would do.....
Install a reliable oil pressure gauge. Choose the lubricant that will not hot idle lower than 20-25 PSI. Amsoil 10W-30 should achieve that, however....best to "verify". I'm also talking about during the hottest months of the year. My GT500 would idle between 27-32 PSI hot during the hottest summer months, all while using Amsoil RD30 10W-30 (Dominator).
You also want to verify that the engine produces oil pressure in excess of 80 PSI at WOT (again, hot). The oil pump bypass should open around 90 PSI. You will notice that oil pressure will plateau around there and level off, despite RPM still increasing.
Amsoil and Royal Purple oil filters will filter the smallest micron, while not restricting oil flow when compared to a standard cellulose/synthetic blended filter. Nano-Fibers FTW!
There was a Chemist who was using oil pressure testing to see what lubricant was best for "his driving style" in his Ferrari. The owners manual called for 10W-60 (track) and 5W-40 (street). In the end, he was using 5W-20. He was only using the car as a grocery getter, calm street driving for "show". Oil pressure showed that 5W-20 was sufficient for his driving style.
The Ferrari dealer was floored....told him he was going to destroy the engine. He laughed, and carried on.
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Oh well....i waisted 100$, the noise i hear was not caused by Amsoil ATF. I switched back to DCT (27$/quart) and the whine is still quite audible.
I did put away my atf in case i want to put it back but am not sure if its a good idea, it has less than 500 miles on it.
Now im probably being paranoid but i feel that its harder to go through the gears with DCT than ATF.
According to Dynotech it could be harmonics going through the ds since its now a one piece instad of the heavy 2 piece one from Ford.
Not sure what my next move will be.....
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