Thanks for the advice. I plan to run an Oil pressure gauge with the Turbo so I will see what it looks like with the 10W-30 Dominator Oil. I already have enough of the 10W-40 AMO oil if I need to switch.
Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
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Thanks for the advice. I plan to run an Oil pressure gauge with the Turbo so I will see what it looks like with the 10W-30 Dominator Oil. I already have enough of the 10W-40 AMO oil if I need to switch.
Forgive my ignorance, but is the synthetic blend a reasonable oil to run in a low mile daily driven GT?
I was wondering if I should change the oil weight since I'll be raising the fuel cut on mine to 7700rpm?
Is this a drag/street car or road course track?
It's a cheaper base stock that will server you well. There are better choices, but Motorcraft 5W-20 isn't a bad choice for cheap oil.
It's a Drag/Street. I got to the strip at least once a month and run about 6-8 times when I go.
Otherwise, I just drive her 2-3 days per week.
Wear numbers look awesome, you can tell that your engine is broken in well. Too bad you didn't pay the additional fee for TBN testing. I will add this to the list asap.
Thank you
Thank you
2011 5.0 ~31,5k miles @ change. Mobil1 Synthetic Extended 5W-30:
So with this,
How did you break in and how do you drive your car Apex32?
Good question. Break in wasn't done by me, rather another member on here that I bought the car from. I'll ask him to post :burnout:
You guys are gonna laugh at me, but I broke it in as follows:
Drove it relatively easy for the first 500 miles, keeping RPM as varied as I could for my driving conditions (including running it up the tach occasionally to help seat the rings). Then I just started driving it normally, running it up to redline now and again as is typical for me until I did my first oil change around 4k miles.
I was going to change the oil after the first 500, but I read on here that ford had some kind of break in additive in the engine and did NOT recommend changing the oil early..so I didn't. After that, I just ran K&N filters with Royal Purple 5w-30 until I sold it to Dan.
Incidentally, I followed this same procedure with my ST, hopefully it fares as well as the 5.0 did.
Drove it relatively easy for the first 500 miles, keeping RPM as varied as I could for my driving conditions (including running it up the tach occasionally to help seat the rings). Then I just started driving it normally, running it up to redline now and again as is typical for me until I did my first oil change around 4k miles.
I was going to change the oil after the first 500, but I read on here that ford had some kind of break in additive in the engine and did NOT recommend changing the oil early..so I didn't. After that, I just ran K&N filters with Royal Purple 5w-30 until I sold it to Dan.
Incidentally, I followed this same procedure with my ST, hopefully it fares as well as the 5.0 did.
That's great. I'be read on here about all then different ways folks have broken thier GT's in, and glad a normalish approach netted such good results! I've been driving mine like how your did (at 398 miles now) and have had a few WOT pulls up to about 6000-6200 RPMs, not all the way. Figured I'd save a full redline run later.
Interesting you didn't change the oil till 4000, I have a track pack and reading all the sheering concerns with the 5w50, I may change the oil out (w/o resetting the computer) at 1,000. I still haven't decided what's best but whenever that 1st oil change is I will definitely be doing an analysis.
Also trying to figure if I do 5w50 for this in between oil change, then swapping to AmSoil for the first "real" oil change or just going straight Amsoil at 1,000. The excess oil pressure makes me nervous for a car that may rarely see the track at first.
Thanks for the info re: break in! And GL with the ST; hear those are a lot of fun!
After the rings have worn in, settled, go straight to a top tier synthetic. Don't waste your money, make the move now.
Thanks unleashedbeast,
I'll do just that. Reading this whole thread, why do your recommend a 10w30 vs the 5w30 for the gt track pack and Boss? Wouldn't you want a 5 for a bit more protection during start up? I may have missed the reasoning, but understand the 10w30 and 40 is less viscous vs the 5w50 motorcraft.
Thnx for all the advice!
2011 5.0 ~31,5k miles @ change. Mobil1 Synthetic Extended 5W-30:
I'd like to comment about this sample some more. While adding this to the chart, I noticed some things that concerned me about Mobil's "flagship" lubricant.
This formulation sheared 12% in your engine. From 10.6 cSt to 9.3 cSt. I would have never expected it too, however...this proves yet again that Mobil 1 isn't using a 100% true synthetic base stock in their formulation.
Calcium is very low at only 5,000 miles of use. This also tells me that TBN is very low (how much detergent/dispersent additives remain). This concerns me because I have no confidence in Mobil's 15,000 miles claim with this lubricant. Surely I'd need to see more trends for 100% confirmation, however....these are solid conclusions that can be made.
Makes sense to me. Looks like I will switch at the first oil change. Once I do, will submit the analysis. Did you trade the GT500 for a new track pack 5.0? (Per your sig)
Thanks!
I lost the GT500 in an accident 1 year ago. The GT is a replacement that I finally decided on.
Ah,
Sorry you lost it. Hope you like the new GT at least. Will send ya the analysis and keep you posted.
The factory motor can last 200,000 miles on any of the quality oils sold today.
This is some funny stuff.
This is some funny stuff.
This thread isn't about what's sufficient, it's about what's best. Cheap lubricant's do not give an engine the best efficiency and lowest internal friction.
Some people mod their car with aftermarket parts because what the manufacturer installed wasn't good enough. Others are satisfied with standard performance. It's all in what you prefer.
What I am noticing from the Coyote, after 25,000+ miles on this engine, wear ppm is so low, you can take full advantage of Amsoil's 15,000 miles or one year oil change with their Signature Series lubricants. Heck, with 8 quarts in the sump, I bet my future testing will show that an 18 month interval is possible after all break in metals are removed from the engine. I wouldn't recommend trying this with an inferior product.
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