Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread

[UnleashedBeast]

Ace, you are correct...and thanks for keeping me straight. I forget what I have told people sometimes (due to the many).

Heck, I forget what I told one girl to keep her from finding out about the 4 others. HAHA! I keed...I keed.

 

[ace72ace]

Today's the day

I am 18 miles short of the same mileage that was on my Motorcrap factory fill, so after I run some errands I will go for a spin to warm up the oil and the pull my sample for OA. My buddy that lent me his pump suggested that I use some simple green (or I was thinking Dawn) to clean out the pump to avoid any contamination from what had previously run through it.

I was giving this some thought and wondered if the pump appears to be clean as is, would I be doing more harm than good using cleansers/degreasers in the pump? Edit - ran down to the basement and pulled the pump out of the plastic bag... It's filthy. I think I am going to do myself a favor and see if I can pick up a pump at Harbor Freight. Stay tuned.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I am 18 miles short of the same mileage that was on my Motorcrap factory fill, so after I run some errands I will go for a spin to warm up the oil and the pull my sample for OA. My buddy that lent me his pump suggested that I use some simple green (or I was thinking Dawn) to clean out the pump to avoid any contamination from what had previously run through it.

Not a good choice. The best thing to do is pump out oil to the bottle, dump that in a collection container, then do it again. When the oil is hot, it will remove any contamination in the tube on the first fill. The second fill should be an accurate representation.

I was giving this some thought and wondered if the pump appears to be clean as is, would I be doing more harm than good using cleansers/degreasers in the pump? Edit - ran down to the basement and pulled the pump out of the plastic bag... It's filthy. I think I am going to do myself a favor and see if I can pick up a pump at Harbor Freight. Stay tuned.

If you follow my advice above, you should be fine. If it's really dirty, perhaps even a third fill.

 

[ace72ace]

I will take your advice and pull hot oil through the pump, and then take my sample from the 3rd pull. I have been very happy with the RP fill so far and it hasn't burned a drop in 6700m. Still looks clean on the stick too. OLM reports I have 37% left.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I will take your advice and pull hot oil through the pump, and then take my sample from the 3rd pull. I have been very happy with the RP fill so far and it hasn't burned a drop in 6700m. Still looks clean on the stick too. OLM reports I have 37% left.

Gotta love the new display and ability Ford added to the 2013/14 cars.

 

[bmyles]

Sorry if I missed it but why aren't people using 5w30? I am due for a oil change and was planning on amsoil ss 5w30 but it seams like everybody is using every weight but 5w30? Thanks lots of good info here

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Sorry if I missed it but why aren't people using 5w30? I am due for a oil change and was planning on amsoil ss 5w30 but it seams like everybody is using every weight but 5w30? Thanks lots of good info here

Why 10W-30?

 

[ace72ace]

Not a good choice. The best thing to do is pump out oil to the bottle, dump that in a collection container, then do it again. When the oil is hot, it will remove any contamination in the tube on the first fill. The second fill should be an accurate representation.



If you follow my advice above, you should be fine. If it's really dirty, perhaps even a third fill.

Just put my sample in the mail today, hopefully results by next Friday.


Rich

 

[USNjocson]

Amsoil will deliver directly to your door. Order it online with your debit or credit card.

Here is a detailed recommendation list for your 302 Boss. It will improve the performance of your engine so much, you will never want to get away from it. Bold/underlined text are direct links.

8 quart fill

Amsoil 10W-30 - use this for a street car, street racing, and drag racing

Amsoil 10W-40 - use this for long session road racing

Amsoil EaO17 - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, Ford Motorcraft filters are only 93.7% efficient @ 20 microns.

If you are having shifting issues with your MT-82 Getrag, use this in place of the OEM fill.

Amsoil Syncromesh - requires 3 quarts

and for the rear differential

Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts

Friction modifier is only used for clutch pack type differentials. If your Boss has the Torsen, you do not require it.

Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces in a clutch pack differential

Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.

buy all Amsoil products at dealer cost (saves 25% off retail).

Preferred Customer

Troy

About to get my first oil change under my ownership. Previous owner used the recommended MC from ford. I have alwaysed used RP in all my mustangs. So I should use 10W-30 for street/drag racing and 10w-40 for track racing? HPS or XPR? Right now I use my car for daily driving and occasional drag racing. Once all my suspension mods are here (around fall) I will track it

 

[ace72ace]

Read some interesting info in the thread where the 'regular' Royal Purple synthetic was now using the cheaper to manufacture cracked base stocks, and should get my results by this Friday. As I already have another 2 changes worth, this test result will make my decision for me as to whether I change it immediately, or leave it in if it still has usable life left.

I haven't tracked my Boss yet, so for only street driven miles, the oil looks and smells fine (which I know doesn't mean a thing but it's not black nor smell like a junk yard motor). So glad I got the test Amsoil test kits, only costs $2.28 to ship my sample to IN.

FWIW, I had planned on going the Amsoil route after doing my own research, but the 55% off I got for the RP at Pep Boys last summer (5qts and filter for $29.99) was too good to pass up for what I thought at the time was a top tier synthetic. Since I've only had street driven miles, of which 2/3rds have been highway, I really don't think it makes a difference using up the supply of RP that I have.

And for all the vitriol posted about 'scamsoil' and their pyramid scheme distributor model, at the end of the day it seems like a top quality oil and has the lab results to back it up. So haters can hate, I'll just make an informed decision on what to put in my Mustang based on test results and cost benefit.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Ace,

I also have a 11,000 mile oil sample of Royal Purple 5W-30 (non-HPS) sent into the lab as of today. It was used for 1 year in a 2004 Lincoln Towncar with the 4.6L 2V V8 from the Mustang. The previous year, I used Amsoil 10W-30 ATM for 10,300 miles, same time duration on both fills. The lab results will be back late this week. We will be able to compare them side by side. The good news is, this car has just shy of 100,000 miles on it, so it's well broken in.

This will be a great sample to compare both side by side. I already know Amsoil is going to win overall, and for ~$2.00 less per quart (everyday Amsoil preferred customer price versus standard off the self retail price for RP).

About to get my first oil change under my ownership. Previous owner used the recommended MC from ford. I have alwaysed used RP in all my mustangs. So I should use 10W-30 for street/drag racing and 10w-40 for track racing? HPS or XPR? Right now I use my car for daily driving and occasional drag racing. Once all my suspension mods are here (around fall) I will track it

If you insist on Royal Purple, I'd stick with HPS. We really need more used oil analysis reports on it to see if it's actually shearing as was seen in a previous report. If the report is consistent with previous results, then Royal Purple is in deep trouble.

Ummh, dat dash!

 

[ace72ace]

What about my dash? =P

As far as 'win' for X is better than Y re: test results of RP vs Amsoil, let me make a not so simple analogy.

If you are a computer enthusiast, that likes to have a multi media editing workstation, gaming beast, or just the fastest thing going, you can compare charts, graphs, and all kinds of test results for CPU metrics, memory latency, and FPS for your favorite GPU (ATI vs nVidia) over multiple games, benchmarks and applications.

I look for maximum performance delivered at the best cost, so I take a macro view of all the data. I don't really care if the sample video, music file, or raw data transfer spec shows that product A was 1687 milli-seconds faster than product B. What I'm looking at is the price delta between the 2. If you look at bar graph that shows the $1000 gfx card delivers 200FPS on your favorite game, but the $380 card gets 'only' 100FPS, which is better? Even if money was no object, that monster card likely requires a huge power supply, and also produces way more heat and noise. So if the savvy consumer knows you can only really discern frame rates to 60FPS, it sure seems like the 'lesser' card is actually the better overall value.

I'm sure there are oil analysis test results that mimic the above data. Sure one is better than the other, but if you are not racing, or live in a desert or Artic Circle, and follow the recommended service intervals, the levels recorded should *NOT* lead to premature wear or bearing failure. So X may beat Y for a pure mathematical comparison, what does it translate into the real world?

For all the quad core, 6 core, and 8 core CPUs you can buy today, there are precious few consumer applications that can take advantage of ANY multi-core CPU, so all you bought for your extra money was bragging rights or something cool you can add to your signature. At least modern operating systems are able to take advantage of extra CPU cores, but for over 90% of Joe Consumer computer user, you want a good PC/laptop that can stream YouTube, handle your digital/video camera files, surf the net, run your choice of M$ Office or Open Office, and maybe some gaming. And no, a 45k Mustang isn't the same as a $1500 laptop, but the narrow focus on certain test results without taking the bigger picture and cost benefit analysis applies to both.

So for all of the additives the consumer petroleum market has to decipher for brand X's proprietary formula vs Brand Y's super secret refining techniques, the consumer is left to cut through the marketing BS and figure out what works best for their engine, in their climate, based on how they drive, how long they drive, and how hard they drive.

For street driven Mustangs using 'full synthetic' or 'cracked synthetic', I'm willing to bet that test results will continue to show the better and more expensive product delivers better *test results*. I don't subscribe to the theory that this will necessarily equate to excessive wear, poor performance, or long term problems. I put faith in the guys who are in the garages and machine shops, and know from personal experience that brand X run on motor Y, and properly maintained will provide excellent performance.

All that being said, I will likely switch over the non-cracked synthetic Amsoil in the future once my next to RP fills have been used. I suspect the analysis I forward to UnleashedBeast will fall in line with previous SN grade RP base 10W-40. For the price difference per quart (I think the filters are equally good), I don't mind paying a few bucks for the better performer. But what I would like to see, learn, or get feedback from anyone with real world experience, education, or knowledge about how various levels of chemicals, contaminants, etc can affect the long term durability of our all aluminum 5.0 & 5.4L engines for 'true synthetics' vs 'cracked'.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Ace hit the nail on the head.

 

[ace72ace]

OA results in

Looks like I will be dumping the RP this weekend, forwarded report to Troy for commentary.

"LUBRICANT and FILTER CHANGE is suggested if not done at sampling time. SUGGEST investigating source of CONTAMINATION.
Sodium is at a SIGNIFICANT LEVEL; Sodium sources: coolant (antifreeze), lube additive or supplement, and/or environmental
contaminant"

 

[ebrow21]

12 Gt Auto. 40 to 50 drag strip runs, both on Nitrous (75-100 shot) and motor. Installed Whipple, datalogged, drove to identify potential problems, and dyno'd. 4,246 miles on oil. Also ran a few cans of Torco fuel additive (hence the Maganese).

5qts old synerlec formula 5w20 Royal Purple, and 3 quarts non-HPS shelf Royal Purple. (Had to deplete old stock from years ago)

Switched to 5w30 HPS Royal Purple. I'll send that for a sample when it comes up as well.

 

[Swiss Boss]

Hi

Here's my sample of Amsoil 10W-40.
The car had 7300mi when changed and ~6000mi being the Amsoil.

The driving has been city driving and 14x30min session of road racing.
And a 4000mi road trip from Indy to Salt Lake for BossTrackAttack :rockon:

What do you think of it?

Thanks.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Thank you for the sample.

Wear metals are good, very much so considering 14 - 30 minute sessions on a road course. I'm also impressed with how low silicon is. How many times have you changed the oil in this car before this fill was put in?

Viscosity sheared from 14.6 to 14.1 cSt, that's less than 4%, nice. After 5,500 miles, TBN is still super strong at 6.34

Another example of Amsoil's resistance to shearing and protection on the road course.

 

[Swiss Boss]

Twice. Both Motorcraft 5W-50

One after 1300mi, breaking period, at the dealership before storage last winter.

And the second one when it get out of storage in end of march for my first track day. Only ran a couple of hundred miles on this fill before switching to Amsoil.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

UOA chart updated with the latest submission. Thank you to everyone who has contributed towards the effort.

If I have forgotten to add anyone's UOA, please let me know.

 

[TRDon]

Just curious because i havent seen this yet, what are your thoughts on oil and storage? I have typically changed oil near the end of the driving season (in mn) and put less than 500 miles on it before leaving it for the winter. It will sit from november to april and not get started or driven until april. Is it best to do it this way or is it preferred to change the oil out in the spring, or change it both in fall and spring. I have heard of it all different ways, but was interested in what an oil guru had to say about it. I always just drove it in the spring like i had 500 miles on the oil.