Nitrous or Vortech Supercharger?

[chknhwk]

TROLL: 0
DEMON: Lost count
LMAO

Anyway, my vote is for the turbo kit from StreetFlight. IMO it beats the shit out of either two scenarios. The torque can't be touched with either of the other two without seriously bumping up boost/shot size.

BTW, 209 fwhp? Right, so I should be dynoing what with my 3.0L? 275? I've got 202 fwhp with 3.0L, 3.0L valves, head port work, knife edged crank, Fidanza flywheel, open element air filter, MSDS headers, MSDS y-pipe, 3" main cat, Brullen 2.5" catback exhaust and no tuning!
What's wrong with this scenario? And yes this question is directed at you. Just think for a second before responding.

 

[rilestoneSVT]

Anyone seen BASS???!

 

[RedFire2003]

I had a 98 CSVT and put a Borla cat-back dropped her and 1inch and a 1/2 and went with the universal nitrous works wet kit! I was running a 75shot and boy did the car like it! It had one hell of a pull and put a lot of mustangs to shame. THe kit cost me right around 600 bucks! For the money the nitrous is the only way to go if you ask me. Anyway good luck and hope to see some number when you decide what your going with.

 

[contourSVT93]

speaking of nitrous

speaking of nitrous... how many sprays woudl there be in a bottle... i dont know much about n2o so since this post is about it .... want to let me know?

 

[ClOckwOrk]

i run 75 shot no retard all day long, run 100 with a retard. motor can handle that any day of the week with the stock forged stuff. i wouldnt go crazy on the spray unless you got good airflow, exhaust is a big deal if you cant move the unburned mixture out fast you might have problems with backfiring etc. do it right and get some sort of timing retard, and dont use a dry kit, that'll only give you trouble in the end. my .02

 

[maniak87]

i think modding a csvt is just a waste of time and money. these things suck at the strip. they are great for the road/autox. i say mod somthing that has more potential. it takes soo much money to get these cars to make power that you might as well buy a stang and mod that. don't get me wrong, i like mine but i see it as a fun daily driver. but hey, to each their own!

just my .02 cents. take it or leave it.

 

[Ryan]

and dont use a dry kit, that'll only give you trouble in the end. my .02

please elaborate.

 

[celerypowered]

boost will get you laid.

 

[ich1baN]

What are you looking for? Stricyly 1320? or more of a road course type car?

Its pretty simple. IMO straight line, N2O Road course SC.

The nitrous obviously is going to more than likely beat the SC in low end and get you ahead further (obviously also depending on the size shot you run). You engine also isn't always getting a pounding from the power adder.

And I don't feel like thinking anymore, but I'd say safely you can run 100 either wet or dry. And remember 100hp shot will/should give you more than 100ftlbs of torque too

I know I sound like a noob but what is the difference between wet and dry, and please dont tell me one is wet and one is dry. Thank you.

 

[ClOckwOrk]

a dry kit is just nitrous oxide, and relys on your stock fuel system to be tuned to add the additional fuel needed.

a wet kit has a fuel solenoid and atomizes nitrous and fuel at the same time, requiring much less fuel tuning, its easier on your fuel system. however you do have more chance of puddling which can lead to backfires. dry kits are junk and i'll race anyone that wants to blow up there motor trying to keep with my wet kit.....

 

[ClOckwOrk]

RTstabler51 i sure do love how you try to make me look like an idiot yet you post on all of my topics. honestly, you are trying to make me look stupid but i am quite sure i am correct in saying that a dry kit is more dangerous for your car and is harder on your fuel injectors if you are maxing them out trying to push enough fuel for a nitrous shot. are you not the one that told me that i will need to push "ridiculous" amounts of fuel pressure to run a wet shot off my test port on my fuel rail? for one thing contours already flow 55psi fuel pressure (plenty!) and another thing that is not nearly as hard on the fuel system as maxing out injectors and a wet kit is cheaper than larger injectors and dyno tuning, its the owners call though, run the dry kit lol #waves to your motors#

 

[Y2KSVT]

RTstabler51 i sure do love how you try to make me look like an idiot yet you post on all of my topics. honestly, you are trying to make me look stupid but i am quite sure i am correct in saying that a dry kit is more dangerous for your car and is harder on your fuel injectors if you are maxing them out trying to push enough fuel for a nitrous shot. are you not the one that told me that i will need to push "ridiculous" amounts of fuel pressure to run a wet shot off my test port on my fuel rail? for one thing contours already flow 55psi fuel pressure (plenty!) and another thing that is not nearly as hard on the fuel system as maxing out injectors and a wet kit is cheaper than larger injectors and dyno tuning, its the owners call though, run the dry kit lol #waves to your motors#

RtStabler51 makes you out to be an idiot, well, because you prove yourself to be one. IIRC, the stock fuel pressure is 35-40psi. You're spouting off BS about wet/dry kits because of your own personal opinions. Your post before this one said you'd run anyone with a dry kit. Well, you wanna come to my neck of the woods so I can hand you your ass with a dry kit? I'd be happy to do it, capture it all on video, and then post it on here. You let me know when you're ready.

And by the way, if you're running a large enough shot to max out your injectors, and you don't upgrade them with a tune, you shouldn't be playing with nitrous anyway. I've got an upgraded fuel pump, and 39# injectors, so if I were you, I wouldn't put my money on me running out of fuel. :idea:

Mark

 

[Ryan]

RTstabler51 i sure do love how you try to make me look like an idiot yet you post on all of my topics. honestly, you are trying to make me look stupid but i am quite sure i am correct in saying that a dry kit is more dangerous for your car and is harder on your fuel injectors if you are maxing them out trying to push enough fuel for a nitrous shot. are you not the one that told me that i will need to push "ridiculous" amounts of fuel pressure to run a wet shot off my test port on my fuel rail? for one thing contours already flow 55psi fuel pressure (plenty!) and another thing that is not nearly as hard on the fuel system as maxing out injectors and a wet kit is cheaper than larger injectors and dyno tuning, its the owners call though, run the dry kit lol #waves to your motors#

How is asking you to elaborate trying to make you look like an idiot?
And no, I'm not the one who told you you need to push "ridiculous' amounts of fuel pressure to do whatever.

However, if you really knew as as much as you say you do, you'd know that with this type of intake design its not nice to wet setups as the fuel can/will (depending on shot size) puddle in the intake 'snakes' and lead to a lean condition and BOOM! A dry kit, with this type of intake design, is a much better choice because there is no fuel in the intake! Yes, it puts a bit more strain on the stock sized injectors, but a bump to 24# and a tune can fix that if your going with a huge setup.


....but hell, what do I know? :idea:

 

[ryanblacksvt]

I hate people who trash others, but damn dude you said he dosent know crap. I havent ever met demon and I would let him do anything he wanted to to my engine. He has the pimpest na 2.5 track beast. He obviously knows his stuff. 14"brakes thats awsome. Hey guys I am gonna have my new excel's double dipped in lead then in crome and get a 20" brake kit for my 17" wheels and run 11's with barely any engine mods.

 

[Ryan]

a dry kit is just nitrous oxide, and relys on your stock fuel system to be tuned to add the additional fuel needed.

a wet kit has a fuel solenoid and atomizes nitrous and fuel at the same time, requiring much less fuel tuning, its easier on your fuel system. however you do have more chance of puddling which can lead to backfires. dry kits are junk and i'll race anyone that wants to blow up there motor trying to keep with my wet kit.....

Basically...

A dry kit introduces only nitrous into the intake before the TB and the fuel is added via the injectors. With our type of intake manifold this is the preferred method as no fuel is introduced into the intake, and usually a bit cheaper than a wet kit. The fuel regulator is brought into the equation and the EEC adjusts fuel /timing (to a degree, although a chip is far superior and safer) accordingly.

A wet kit introduces the nitours and nitrous at the same point. Fuel is 'diverted' from the schrader valve into the fuel solenoid and they are put together in a nozzle. The downside to this in our intake manifold is the fact that the fuel is prone to 'falling' out of the air and allowing a lean condition and burnt pistions, in the further away cylinders or a back fire as previously stated.

I don't see how either, assuming the same shot size, is any harder on the fuel system than the other though....

 

[Ryan]

I hate people who trash others, but damn dude you said he dosent know crap. I havent ever met demon and I would let him do anything he wanted to to my engine. He has the pimpest na 2.5 track beast. He obviously knows his stuff. 14"brakes thats awsome. Hey guys I am gonna have my new excel's double dipped in lead then in crome and get a 20" brake kit for my 17" wheels and run 11's with barely any engine mods.

Who's that directed towards?

and BTW Greg's car has been a 3.0L for awhile now....but yes, he did have one of the baddest 2.5Ls too...

 

[ClOckwOrk]

hey Y2KSVT

want a PICTURE of my fuel pressure guage reading 55 PSI on my car? or do you want the nx manual that says that contour SVT's FLOWING fuel pressure is 55-60 psi. let me know if you wana be proven wrong sucker

 

[Ryan]

hey Y2KSVT

want a PICTURE of my fuel pressure guage reading 55 PSI on my car? or do you want the nx manual that says that contour SVT's FLOWING fuel pressure is 55-60 psi. let me know if you wana be proven wrong sucker

Wow, your NX manual is specifically written for a Contour? Er, I doubt that.

BTW, if you don't loose the attitude quickly you can take a short vacation.

 

[ryanblacksvt]

Who's that directed towards?

and BTW Greg's car has been a 3.0L for awhile now....but yes, he did have one of the baddest 2.5Ls too...

It is directed at the douche bag that said he has a crome plated 14" brake kit.hahaha @ him

 

[Y2KSVT]

hey Y2KSVT

want a PICTURE of my fuel pressure guage reading 55 PSI on my car? or do you want the nx manual that says that contour SVT's FLOWING fuel pressure is 55-60 psi. let me know if you wana be proven wrong sucker

You're a real piece of work, you know that? First off, I said "IIRC"(If I remember correctly!!!!!), the stock fuel pressure is 35-40PSI, never did I state that to be fact. Second, yes I'd like to see your fuel pressure gauge reading 55-60PSI, and your NX manual that specifically states that a Contour SVT's fuel pressure should be 55-60PSI. Third, don't go spouting off about stuff you don't know to be fact, and 4th, when are you going to be in Indiana next, cause I'd like to take you up on that race?

Mark