NEED HELP PLEASE!

[DSG2003Mach1]

I would guess the fuel pressure regulator is that back against the firewall where the gauge is on the driver's side. Should be a vacuum line you can trace from there to the intake or spliced into another vacuum line.

Now I might be wrong from just glancing through the thread but if you can go key on, build pressure in the system and it stays according to that gauge then I would have to guess the regulator is ok and you don't have an injector just flat out leaking. Which to me would lead to an injector receiving a faulty signal to open and sticking that way or isn't pulsing correctly.

how long was it cranking before fuel came out the tailpipe? I'd hate for you to be chasing your tail on the fuel system when it's a lack of spark

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

just now looked at the tail pipe video and oil change - did you smell what was coming out of the tail pipes and sure it was fuel? I feel like it would have hurt the motor if it was water but sure theres not like a broken intercooler core and it's dumping water into the motor? Whats the level on the intercooler reservoir? If it was running just water or low anti freeze mix and got hauled through somewhere with freezing temps...

not trying to add to the confusion, just spit balling here.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Well the first thing I thought was- it wasn’t getting spark. Car had only 6volts cranking and in my experience, it’s not enough for ignition(believe it has to be over 10.25 usually).

I tried several dozen times, I had no idea it was flooding the engine. Thought it was just a dead battery. Never heard of late model cars flooding an engine.

 

[MG0h3]

Well the first thing I thought was- it wasn’t getting spark. Car had only 6volts cranking and in my experience, it’s not enough for ignition(believe it has to be over 10.25 usually).

I tried several dozen times, I had no idea it was flooding the engine. Thought it was just a dead battery. Never heard of late model cars flooding an engine.

Look into what’s a PATS issue does.

The flashing theft light is a problem.

It’s hard to explain some other weird mechanical failure randomly happening during transport. If it is a mechanical failure, prob the transporter beat the shit out of it.

I’d deal with the PATS issue.


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[Coosawjack]

That oil looked like it had lotsa water in it.......perhaps old E85 phase separated piping raw water into the engine......the first dribbles looked like clear water to me!!

GOOD LUCK figuring it out!!

 

[Vinnie_B]

Have you scanned the car yet? I recommend it. If the The PATS is flashing you will have a fault code. Also if any other components injectors ....ect are failing you will have some fault codes. It will help in diagnosing your problem.

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

Good chatting and deff will help ya with this issue.

Shoot me that video when you get it.

 

[Vinnie_B]

What is PATS? I did notice that THEFT was just flashing while car was unlocked for no reason, even when trying to start the car.

Anti-Theft—Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)​

The passive anti-theft system (PATS) contains the following components:

• theft indicator
• encoded ignition key
• transceiver module
• instrument cluster
• powertrain control module (PCM)
• standard corporate protocol (SCP) communication network

The PATS uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from the user.

The PATS uses a specially encoded ignition key. Each encoded ignition key contains a permanently installed electronic device called a transponder. Each transponder contains a unique electronic identification code, with over 72 million billion combinations.

Each encoded ignition key must be programmed into the vehicle's instrument cluster (the instrument cluster is also known as a hybrid electronic cluster [HEC]), before it can be used to start the engine.

The encoded key is larger than a traditional ignition key. The key does not require batteries and should last the life of the vehicle.

The transceiver module communicates with the encoded ignition key. This module is located behind the steering column shroud and contains an antenna connected to a small electronics module. During each vehicle start sequence, the transceiver module reads the encoded ignition key identification code and sends the data to the instrument cluster.

The control functions are contained in the instrument cluster. This module carries out all of the PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition key and controlling engine enable. The instrument cluster initiates the key interrogation sequence when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to RUN or START.

The PATS uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the SCP network in order to enable engine operation. The instrument cluster and the PCM use sophisticated messages in order to prevent a theft. The instrument cluster and the PCM share security data (when first installed together) that makes them a matched pair. After this security data sharing, these modules will not function in other vehicles. The shared PCM ID is remembered even if the battery is disconnected. The instrument cluster also stores the vehicle's key identification code even if the battery is disconnected. There are special diagnostic procedures outlined in this workshop manual that may be carried out if either a new instrument cluster or PCM needs to be installed.

All elements of PATS must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.

PATS uses a visual theft indicator. This indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START. PATS also "blips" the theft indicator every two seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.

The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Have you scanned the car yet? I recommend it. If the The PATS is flashing you will have a fault code. Also if any other components injectors ....ect are failing you will have some fault codes. It will help in diagnosing your problem.

I have not but can


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[Vinnie_B]

I have not but can


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That will help diagnosis the car if it is throwing some fault codes. When you get a chance, check for PATS faults or any other powertrain (P) fault codes!

 

[NotSatisfied]

Seems like the driver didn’t really know how to drive the car


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[ccq8le]

Horrible if the shipping guys damaged the car.

Subscribing to thread and throwing out some support for the OP. Cobra brothers unite and lots of good advice on here already.

If it makes you feel any better, I would think when you get through this and across the finish line with it, you will know the car better and may even feel more so that it's your car now.

Oil is definitely suspect to me, but its beyond what I have any advice to.

Good luck and welcome to the cobra brotherhood!

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[DSG2003Mach1]

Seems like the driver didn’t really know how to drive the car


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eh, so what if he stalled it trying to be careful. If the car only has an extra tenth of a mile I have a hard time seeing what they could have hurt other than the clutch.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Taste like water, it doesn’t ignite. Maybe the brick failed?


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[DSG2003Mach1]

View attachment 1741791View attachment 1741792

Taste like water, it doesn’t ignite. Maybe the brick failed?


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Does it match what’s in the intercooler tank? What’s the fluid level like in the intercooler tank?

Any idea if the car passes through freezing temps from California to you?

 

[NotSatisfied]

Does it match what’s in the intercooler tank? What’s the fluid level like in the intercooler tank?

Any idea if the car passes through freezing temps from California to you?

I would say it does match. The level is about 40-50% full, its a Gal tank.

It could very well have been in the freezing temps, I did see Las Cruces, NM would on that rought and it got down to 31 or something but im not sure where else he went.

Im taking the whipple off now as we speak, taking a break now. I just have the #4 injector harness and the bolt behind it to get and I can remove it. I just havent figured out how to get to it yet. Also wondering how heavy it is.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

If it was only barely below freezing it would take quite a while to actually freeze and if there’s any actual antifreeze it would take more than that.

Keep us updated

 

[OSU34]

Have to ask - just to make sure as I’ve seen this before. Are you depressing the clutch in all the way when you try and start it?

 

[NotSatisfied]

Have to ask - just to make sure as I’ve seen this before. Are you depressing the clutch in all the way when you try and start it?

Yes


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[NotSatisfied]

So now my problem is the odometer is just " ---------" (dashes).

I did pull the 20A mini fuse by the battery to cut the fuel pumps and unplugged the (2) main harness connections on the passenger side firewall. I don't recall the order but i may have plugged those in while the battery was connected. Anyways, the car will crank but thats it. The OBD connector wont let my SCT or scan gauge access the PCM. I dont hear the fans, pumps, nothing.

I checked fuses. The battery all good. I know there is a CCRM but its not buzzing etc. I removed this old ass Audiovox alarm (connected with T-Taps, etc). Thats gone. Maybe thats the problem? Honestly the only thing I did was reconnect the red/blue stripe wire back together.

Now what. I have disconnected the battery for hours, to allow the PCM to reset but no dice.