I couldn't really find a n/a specific forum so I decided on posting it here since I'm thinking of running e85. I'm looking into building a factory five roadster and have decided on a Mark VIII as the best donor. I was planning on forging the motor and building a custom turbo set up, but a high rpm, lightweight, n/a setup appeals to me as well. If I went this route what can I expect as far as power and cost. I'm thinking GT500 heads, FR500 valve train, Sullivan intake, forged pistons/crank, billet rods. With e85 what kind of compression do you think I can run and how much would a supporting fuel system cost? Also do you guys think e85 is here to stay or will it faze out after awhile?
N/A, high compression, high rpm build ?'s
- Thread starter 99GTvert
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For a N/A Mod Motor, I would personally run 15.0:1 CR.
I would go with a return style fuel system with 80# injectors. I would think over 500 RWHP should be attainable.
I do not believe E85 is going anywhere any time soon. Ethanol production is scheduled to increase over the next 10 years, with plans to go to E15 by adding blender pumps at stations across the country.
I would go with a return style fuel system with 80# injectors. I would think over 500 RWHP should be attainable.
I do not believe E85 is going anywhere any time soon. Ethanol production is scheduled to increase over the next 10 years, with plans to go to E15 by adding blender pumps at stations across the country.
500 was actually the goal, with a redline as close to 8000rpms as I can get. Now I know it is going to be more expensive than going turbo, but do you guys think I will lose reliability and drivability as well?
You can make 500rwhp with a 13.5:1, 289ci combo with 03/04 heads and either a Sullivan or FR500 intake, but it'll have to be spun higher than 8000rpm. It'll be a lot easier with more cubic inches and this will also allow you to keep the RPMs lower. A big bore, stroker or a bb/stroker will make 500rwhp with less effort and will also live longer.
Is it not worth it to go with the higher compression and GT500 heads then? How big can I go on a Teksid block? Also how many miles will a setup like this last for? It won't be driven hard all that often, but I don't want to be rebuilding it more than I'm driving it.
With darton sleeves the teksid can have a 3.7" bore.
High compression and high RPMs aren't easy on an engine, but the can be reliable and kast a long time if built by someone that knows what they're doing.
I would do a bb/stroker and spin it no higher than 8k.
High compression and high RPMs aren't easy on an engine, but the can be reliable and kast a long time if built by someone that knows what they're doing.
I would do a bb/stroker and spin it no higher than 8k.
How much does a build like this cost total? Whether I go turbo or keep it n/a I will still have to get new internals and probably upgraded heads/cams. How much more will the rest of the parts needed (darton sleeves/intake/etc) cost? I know it's going to be more expensive but I don't know if I can justify a huge difference for the sake of novelty/coolness.
It costs $1200 to sleeve a block. Another option is to buy a Boss block but it's iron and weighs quite a bit more.
The cost to build an 8000rpm, billet rod engine isn't cheap. If you need everything, oil pan to intake, expect to relieve yourself of $8-10k.
The cost to build an 8000rpm, billet rod engine isn't cheap. If you need everything, oil pan to intake, expect to relieve yourself of $8-10k.
I would like to keep it aluminum as being lighter is one of the advantages of this setup. Like I said I know it's going to be a little more expensive but I couldn't justify a huge difference in reliability if that would be an issue. Thanks for coming in here by the way, it's a big help.
An 11.5:1 big bore with good cams and a Sullivan will make 450rwhp and last a long time.
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this seems cheap to me, where do I get a bb/stroker long block for that price?
Ported heads are necessary to reach that power level.
If the cash is spent wisely you can get there without breaking the bank.
If the cash is spent wisely you can get there without breaking the bank.
I am actually currently building a 11.5:1 comp 324 bb stroker from a 5.0 cammer aluminum block and billet oliver rods. The heads were ported by AL P and here are the cam specs.
Intake Cam 273 dur [email protected] .475 lift
Exhaust Cam 279 dur [email protected] .450 lift
I have mod component gears to set the LSA but I am unsure where I will set them yet.
I have a ported mach intake with 3/8 spacer. I know a sullivan is needed for the max power but how much will it hurt me? I will be running E85 with 60lb/hr injectors
Intake Cam 273 dur [email protected] .475 lift
Exhaust Cam 279 dur [email protected] .450 lift
I have mod component gears to set the LSA but I am unsure where I will set them yet.
I have a ported mach intake with 3/8 spacer. I know a sullivan is needed for the max power but how much will it hurt me? I will be running E85 with 60lb/hr injectors
At 6000rpm the stock intake won't hurt, @6500 itll be down 20 or so and 7000 it'll probably be down 40-50.
What LSA would you set the cams to for n/a? so ill be in the neighborhood of 450 rwhp?
even with it ported? wow that sucks. guess its time to sell this piece. With a sullivan efi setup what can it make? I am going to break the motor in N/A before I look at boost options
A ported intake adds only about 10rwhp over what a stock intake provides. The stock intake, ported or unported, will kill power at 6300-6400rpm.
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