My FFR AC Cobra build thread

[wizbangdoodle]

Ok, I've returned from vacation last night and will be getting in this build in a serious manner.

Marked, labeled and removed all the panels down to a bare frame. Mounted my vice to my new rolling bench.

Installed lower A-arms. Found out I'm all out of blue Loctite. Ordered. Might as well order some soft jaws for the vice and a DeWalt rivet gun. Done.
I'm finding being organized takes a lot of time.

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[wizbangdoodle]

And I have to give this guy props. Not sure of the cubic ft it's heating, but 2200 sq ft and 15' ceilings. Without it, I'd be freezing. 14° outside and 65° in here.

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[wizbangdoodle]

Ok, time for another update.

I had a master mechanic come in and lend me a hand.

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[wizbangdoodle]

Mounted the hubs.

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[wizbangdoodle]

Once hubs were mounted, installed the brakes. These are Wilwood brakes speced by Gordon Levy. Still have a few things to tighten up, but left them loose because it's got to come back off soon.

Also had to modify the caliper mount and knuckle by doing a bit of grinding.

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[wizbangdoodle]

Moving on to the rearend next.

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[MG0h3]

I believe the rear differential was specd from a Porsche years ago when I was considering one of these.

Still the case?


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[Black Gold 380R]

I believe the rear differential was specd from a Porsche years ago when I was considering one of these.

Still the case?


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Interesting. I was under the impression it was from a Jaguar. Learn something new everyday.

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[Rb0891]

Moving on to the rearend next. View attachment 1826341

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Looks nice man. Very organanized.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

I believe the rear differential was specd from a Porsche years ago when I was considering one of these.

Still the case?


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Nope, this is from Ford racing. Basically an IRS from a 2015+ mustang.

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[MG0h3]

Nope, this is from Ford racing. Basically an IRS from a 2015+ mustang.

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Makes more sense since there’s brand new IRS options out there.


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[bird_dog0347]

That looks bad ass, but I've also heard getting that pumpkin up in there involves many beers and every cuss word known to man plus maybe a few new ones.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

That looks bad ass, but I've also heard getting that pumpkin up in there involves many beers and every cuss word known to man plus maybe a few new ones.

I'll let you know later tonight.

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[railroad]

Use a floor jack, couple of short 2X4s and some ratchet straps, some long tapered punches or line up bars.
You can make your own line up tools with some long bolts, ground down to a point.
This allows you to tap them in with a hammer. The point will align the holes as they go in.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

Use a floor jack, couple of short 2X4s and some ratchet straps, some long tapered punches or line up bars.
You can make your own line up tools with some long bolts, ground down to a point.
This allows you to tap them in with a hammer. The point will align the holes as they go in.

Thanks railroad, kind of followed that advice last night.

Rear is in. I set the unit on my floor jack at an angle, maybe 45°. Slid it under the car and raised her up. Got the pinion on the frame cross bar (towel for protection). At this point, I realized I'm going to need another hand or two. Called the wife down and had her operate the jack. Went pretty easy, quite honestly, until the last bolt that just would not go in. If I tapped it in, it would just push the sleeve out of the bushing. Ended up using a ratchet to turn it in while I supported the diff with a pry bar. Book doesn't call for Loctite, so I'll torque them down later. Another step forward.

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[wizbangdoodle]

Was reading ahead in the manual. Was reminded that I need to buy some gear oil for this diff. I'm assuming that they ship dry.

This is what the book calls for:

Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) EST-M2C118-A
Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL WSS-M2C942-A
Fill the rear axle with fluids.
Capacities
Fluid Amount
SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear
Lubricant
3.15-3.30 pt (1.49-1.56 L)
Friction Modifier 3.0-3.5 oz (0.089-0.104 L)

Any opinions on better/different oils?

 

[railroad]

Motorcraft is fine. Lotsa guys like Royal Purple. Wait until you get axles in, before filling. I think the fill level is about 1/4 inch below the fill plug. That is the plug at the bottom of the axles, level.
I have read, some used the upper plug, which can be used to fill, but not for checking level of lube.
If your diff has the clutch pack, use the friction modifier, put in first. If Torsen carrier, no friction modifier needed.
The diff may not hold the listed capacity, due to residual lube, from assembly, still in the housing.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

Motorcraft is fine. Lotsa guys like Royal Purple. Wait until you get axles in, before filling. I think the fill level is about 1/4 inch below the fill plug. That is the plug at the bottom of the axles, level.
I have read, some used the upper plug, which can be used to fill, but not for checking level of lube.
If your diff has the clutch pack, use the friction modifier, put in first. If Torsen carrier, no friction modifier needed.
The diff may not hold the listed capacity, due to residual lube, from assembly, still in the housing.

Axles go in next, so I'll fill after that. Not sure how someone would fill to the upper hole, that's where the vent line goes. I've always filled to the edge of the fill hole (lower). I'll keep an eye on where it ends up. Thanks for the info.

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[Morgan]

Was reading ahead in the manual. Was reminded that I need to buy some gear oil for this diff. I'm assuming that they ship dry.

This is what the book calls for:

Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) EST-M2C118-A
Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL WSS-M2C942-A
Fill the rear axle with fluids.
Capacities
Fluid Amount
SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear
Lubricant
3.15-3.30 pt (1.49-1.56 L)
Friction Modifier 3.0-3.5 oz (0.089-0.104 L)

Any opinions on better/different oils?

This site is full of testing data and recommendations for oil- all content generated by an SAE engineer. Search for "gear oil" and you'll find quite a bit of information.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

[Fastback]

I like Sta-lube hypoid gl5 75-90w