My FFR AC Cobra build thread

[wizbangdoodle]

The time has come and I'm ready to build an AC Cobra. I've been waiting a long time to do this and now the time is right. I'll be ordering my kit this week and I'm looking for suggestions on every aspect and option, like what wheels, what motor and transmission, what brakes etc.

I'm also still trying to settle on a color. Traditional blue with white stripes is always nice, but there are so many of them. I thought a really deep, dark green with dark gray stripes might look good, but the wife turned her nose up at that idea (it's still on the table in my opinion).

Anyway, I'll be trying to document my build here. Not sure if I'll do as good of job documenting as some have done on their builds, but we'll see how it goes.

So, let's have you input! I'm ordering this week and need to get some things locked in. I'll let you know which way I'm leaning with options after I see some opinions.

 

[biminiLX]

The time has come and I'm ready to build an AC Cobra. I've been waiting a long time to do this and now the time is right. I'll be ordering my kit this week and I'm looking for suggestions on every aspect and option, like what wheels, what motor and transmission, what brakes etc.

I'm also still trying to settle on a color. Traditional blue with white stripes is always nice, but there are so many of them. I thought a really deep, dark green with dark gray stripes might look good, but the wife turned her nose up at that idea (it's still on the table in my opinion).

Anyway, I'll be trying to document my build here. Not sure if I'll do as good of job documenting as some have done on their builds, but we'll see how it goes.

So, let's have you input! I'm ordering this week and need to get some things locked in. I'll let you know which way I'm leaning with options after I see some opinions.

Cobra roadster has always been on my bucket list and wife approved. Can’t go wrong with FFR, Superformance or Backdraft.
We will go with a big and tall Backdraft with the S550 IRS and Coyote/Tremec TKX combo.
Have you decided on drivetrain?
Color combo is subjective but I’d probably take longest on that choice and do what you want don’t choose traditional just for resale IMO if you’re into keeping it vs more for the build.
Looking forward to seeing the build.
-J

 

[MinGrey02Stg2]

What’s your engine budget? I’ve always wanted to build one with a high compression big block Ford- aluminum block with SR71 Kaase heads. Coyotes are cool and all but they’re just so common, but also easy and straightforward.

 

[svtfocus2cobra]

Will the Godzilla motor work in these? I would imagine so. I'd probably do a black color because they are so menacing, but the candy apple red colors look good on these too, or what about some of the lighter factory Ford blue colors, like the lighter blues that they have been offering lately.

 

[mariusvt]

If it were me, sunset orange metallic would be high up on the list.

 

[Double"O"]

If it were me, sunset orange metallic would be high up on the list.

This...or good old sonic blue with white or DSG with black stripes

 

[Lambeau]

Wimbledon White w/Sonic Blue Pearl Metallic stripes.

 

[COOL COBRA]

I’d go old school. Warmed up 289, single 4 bbl, toploader 4speed. Simple, would be plenty of power & you can’t kill it.
Have you ridden in one yet?

 

[wizbangdoodle]

I’d go old school. Warmed up 289, single 4 bbl, toploader 4speed. Simple, would be plenty of power & you can’t kill it.
Have you ridden in one yet?

I have not. Considering all the different options for suspension, tires, wheels etc, I don't think any 2 would ride the same.

Your government is lying to you

 

[COOL COBRA]

Correct, different setups would ride/handle differently.
I remember reading excerpts from early Cobra racers after the 427 was introduced.
Of course the 427 had gobs of power but the 289 was preferred by many due to the lighter weight for actual handling.
In short, bigger isn’t always better when you’re powering a car with this size/weight.
What kit are you using? Maybe they can point you to previous customers with completed cars you could check out/ride in to help you make some choices.
edit: I see your building a Factory Five. They’ve got an actual forum. Should be plenty of info from builders/owners there to pick through.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

The build I am leaning towards would be an old school V8, most likely a stroked Windsor (427 to keep things right). While a modern coyote would probably be easier and more tunable, I think a carb setup just looks better.
I'd also go with a manual trans of course. FFR kits offer a configuration for a TKX trans. Not sure of the quality of that unit, will be checking into that. Also going with the IRS. Why not have the best handling you can get, right?

Then there's all the small options. What seats? What gauges? Heater or no heater? The choices seem endless. Build budget, I'm hoping to stay in the $60k range.

So, keep the suggestions coming and I'll keep everyone informed of my progress.

 

[railroad]

I am excited for you. The Coyote engine is smooth, dependable and very street friendly.
Down side it is very low on tq. I am running 3.55 gears and might someday change to 3.73. I recommend 3.73s for more performance.
347s, 410s and 427s are tq horses. They will beat the Coyote out of the hole everytime, if they can control tire spin.
The Coyote really shines on the cruises and highways.
Be sure to match up your overdrive ratio with the rear gears and shoot for about 2K rpm on the highway.
The TKX is a drop in and can do everything you need. The six speed models run about a 5 inch driveshaft and dictates an IRS.
Factory 5 is the best for the money, if you want to build it yourself. Its engineering design is strong and works.
500 hp is about max you will need. Anything from 350 to 400 will impress anyone. There are faster and better race cars, but fun, fast and handling are all in the F5 car.
Do not worry about color, for now. It is difficult, but will happen as you approach paint time.
Some people load the cars down with traction control, a/c, heat, stereo, etc.
I have heated seats, and a 12 volt outlet.
You cannot hear any music and a/c is like on a motorcycle.
A lot of the sensations are motorcycle like, short of putting a leg down when stopped.
I could go on forever, but know this, the short wheel base and lotsa power will bite your a$$ or kill you. The car has to be driven ALL the time, unlike mama's ride.
Be sure to get on the Factory 5 sites. You will have questions about assembly and the guys on their are glad to give you answers.

 

[wizbangdoodle]

Thanks railroad, appreciate the advice. That is a really nice car you have. FFR I assume?

 

[MG0h3]

Running a carb’d Windsor platform will be way cheaper and easier to setup than any Coyote setup.

Where are you located?

Just saw you’re in WA. I knew it was west coast somewhere.

I used to live in SoCal and had a racing engine shop build the short block 408” for my CJ5. Been hammering it for 10yrs without issue. They specialized in racing engines for Baja guys. Offered Windsor based packages from @500hp level to over 750.

I’d recommend going the roller cam route so you’ll need a block out of a mid 90s truck.

Had to dig around to find it but it’s Total Performance Racing in Santee/San Diego. I’m out in TX now but if I needed one of these done again, I’d use them and pay the shipping.

View attachment 1807197


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[wizbangdoodle]

Running a carb’d Windsor platform will be way cheaper and easier to setup than any Coyote setup.

Where are you located?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

PNW
Washington

 

[railroad]

Then there's all the small options. What seats? What gauges? Heater or no heater? The choices seem endless. Build budget, I'm hoping to stay in the $60k range.

The Factory 5 seats look period correct. They sit OK for long rides. A lot of guys are running high backs. You have to follow suit and use their experience for fitting them in the cockpit.
Most kit builder use the Speed Hut gauge kit. They use a gps speedo and led back light gauges. Maybe not for the clock. They have a life time warranty. My oil pressure gauges started reading erroneously, easy swap. Their temp gauge may be Celsius, I had mine changed by them.
A lot of guys north of Alabama do run heaters. Check your state for compliance, some require defroster, heater.
$60K will be tight. If you can do body work and paint, might be doable.
You can buy a Mustang IRS from salvage and save about 1K. The half shafts will not fit, too long.
Diff, brakes, hubs all work. Some good nuts and bolts too. Factory 5 will delete the same from your order.
Your are going to need at a minimum a room indoor car space. The body can be stored outside, but needs to be under cover, no contact. Lotsa guys hang them from the ceiling.
Start reading threads on building. Some of it will not make sense, until it is hands on.
Ask a lot of questions and post your final plans on the site. Feed back will save you time, money and do overs.
Get power steering, you will never regret it.
Need a quick answer, hit me up. Glad to help.

 

[railroad]

Thanks railroad, appreciate the advice. That is a really nice car you have. FFR I assume?

Yes, No reqrets. I have seen other brands.

 

[svtfocus2cobra]

The build I am leaning towards would be an old school V8, most likely a stroked Windsor (427 to keep things right). While a modern coyote would probably be easier and more tunable, I think a carb setup just looks better.
I'd also go with a manual trans of course. FFR kits offer a configuration for a TKX trans. Not sure of the quality of that unit, will be checking into that. Also going with the IRS. Why not have the best handling you can get, right?

Then there's all the small options. What seats? What gauges? Heater or no heater? The choices seem endless. Build budget, I'm hoping to stay in the $60k range.

So, keep the suggestions coming and I'll keep everyone informed of my progress.

If you want to add a nice little touch and have the seats embroidered to match the car then Cobra seats are really nice, but can be pretty pricey. They make multiple vintage style seats that would work well in that car, but they have just about every style you could imagine. I've always liked their designs but don't know how they stack up to say Recaro.

Historic Seats

Over three generations we have built a reputation for supplying some of the world’s safest, lightest and most ergonomically efficient car seats for modern racing cars, yet our passion for classic cars has never diminished.

www.cobraseats.com

 

[wizbangdoodle]

If you want to add a nice little touch and have the seats embroidered to match the car then Cobra seats are really nice, but can be pretty pricey. They make multiple vintage style seats that would work well in that car, but they have just about every style you could imagine. I've always liked their designs but don't know how they stack up to say Recaro.

Historic Seats

Over three generations we have built a reputation for supplying some of the world’s safest, lightest and most ergonomically efficient car seats for modern racing cars, yet our passion for classic cars has never diminished.

www.cobraseats.com

^^Nice. Will be checking into those.

Your government is lying to you

 

[365 Saleen]

Several years ago, the place I worked at was a Superformance Dealer and I got to assembly a lot of Cobras, (about 20 of them) 2 Daytona Coupes and a GT40.
Because we built a lot of these cars, I also saw Backdraft cars and a few Factory 5 cars. At that time, the Superformance and Backdraft cars were superior in every aspect.
By itself, away from any other kits, the Factory 5 Seems like a nice kit. Park it next to a Superformance or Backdraft car and you could tell it was trash.
For a budget build, they are fine.
Most of the Superformance cars I built were based on the 351 W with the vast majority being 427 cid engines from Roush. Both EFI and Carb.
I also built 6 Shelby CSX cars with an all Aluminum FE engine at 511 cid, with one of them being EFI. Those were bad to the bone and expensive as hell.
The typical Superformance rolling chassis was around $60K at that time. The most money spent on one was over $130K in 2010 or so.
Fun to drive, but dangerous if you did not know what you were doing behind the wheel.