My BBQ Tick Story - with a Happy Ending!

avexhype

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The very first time I NOTICED what I would later learn to be the "BBQ Lighter / Igniter" tick was shortly after the first oil change at my nearest dealer. I came back the next day and had them look at it. They definitely didn't claim it as being "normal" since it was so noticeable nor gave me BS runaround at the time, but after dropping it off for a few days of tests and troubleshooting they chalked it up to bad gas and ran some injector cleaner through it.

Sure enough, the ticking had gone away mostly when I went to pick it up, but it was still very faintly there. It didn't really bother me then as I thought it was taken care of. Of course, I would later learn the only reason it went away was because they beat the shit out of the car when running the cleaner and "broke" in the new oil.

After the next oil change a few months later it was back again. It was SO LOUD in parking garages and drive-thru's to the point it was embarrassing. I took it right back and had them look at it again. They inspected all timing components this time, but didn't replace anything. They said it had no TSB's either. Sure enough, they said it was carbon buildup ping again. "Dammit, HOW is that so?! I ONLY ever use top-tier 93!" I said. They once again ran carbon cleaner through it which made the tick go away and they said that they're done troubleshooting this issue and if I bring it back again for the same thing i'd have to pay for the shop time and cleaning service. I was pissed, but I trusted their word and made sure to get everything written down on paper in case I had any issues in the future after my warranty was up.

So I just let it be for the remainder of 2014. It would go through the cycle just like everyone else has described here and the noise really settles down towards the end of the oil change interval. In the winter it was barely noticeable at all, EVEN AFTER AN OIL CHANGE. Texas summers are brutal, so as soon it started getting warm out in 2015 the ticking started again after an oil change and this time, it was different. Not only did I have the ticking sound, but I would start to feel a very slight stumble in idle - not like a misfire but like drop in RPM due to load (very very small amount, most wouldnt notice it). The hotter it was outside the worse that it was. A/C on or off, it didn't change the sound.

NOTE: Rapid ticking/tapping sound was present at highway speeds while cruising!!!

This was in March and now I was getting worried on top of my frustrations. I was about to just go ahead and trade in the car for a 2015 GT.

I started documenting and recording videos of the sound after I learned about so many other people having this issue.

So I recently moved to another city and decided to try another dealer, ONE LAST TIME. I had an oil change done, ticking was back with a vengeance, called the master service adviser to explain my previous situation and to make an appointment to have it looked at under warranty. That morning I warmed up the car reeeaaal good, had the service adviser look at it, and sure enough he heard it and immediately said it would be looked at under the "heavy" line of repairs. They hook me up with a rental and I head out. He calls back the next day and said this is something they've seen before and it will most likely need a short block, but before they do so they need to get with Ford's hotline and run through a testing process. We are now at early-mid April of 2015 and the nervous waiting begins.

-----------------------------------

CLIFF NOTES:

-Bought a GT in 2013
-BBQ tick started after first oil change.
-My original dealer back home gave me the runaround after looking at it a few times (basically after they got annoyed with me bothering them)
-Another dealer acknowledged right away and sent it to the heavy repair line for diagnosis.
-After 3 weeks of waiting I am authorized a new short block and it gets fixed under warranty.
 
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Angry50

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sounds like yours was worse than the average. i sometimes get a lit tick in the heat after first crank up. after running a few minutes seems to go away. i didnt hear it at all with 10w30 im back on 5w20 right now and hear it lightly. been debating on going back to 10w30 or not.
 

avexhype

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So what is the issue that causes this "igniter" tick?

It's still speculation at this point, but many "think" that it could be a quality issue with something like a machine out of spec or faulty parts at the motor assembly. No verdict as of yet, but for some people it's gone away using different oils or having timing components replaced.
 

beef97

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yes i'd also like to know the exact cause of it. you'd think that they would spend some time tearing the engine apart and really figure this out but maybe that's asking too much for a company to care deeply about the products it puts out. Thank God my 2012 doesn't have it. I only have 5000 miles on it so i'm hoping that it never develops
 

avexhype

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Update

Here is what's on the paperwork:

"Drained oil, no metal debris found. Cut open oil filter, no metal debris found in pleats. Cancelled cylns with IDs and perf chassis ear test. Noise changes when cylinder is cancelled on cyls 6 and 7. Removed engine and remove main bearings. No visual signs of failure. DIAGNOSED: inherent cylinder geometry. Replaced short block and reran tests. No noise after repair."

We may never know.
 

03Sssnake

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I would suspect rod bearing, bearing clearance being on the tight side. I have this noise too and have had it since bringing the car home new. The noise is most apparent right after an oil change and gradually goes away, for me that is roughly around a thousands miles after an oil change. I only hear the noise after driving the car for a while and when its fully reached operating temp, never heard it cold. Mine has not gotten worse, if anything its a little better than it was when new. I honestly don't ever plan on using my warranty, wouldn't want a reman shortblock from Ford anyways :D If it ever gets really bad I guess I will cross that bridge then, but most likely will just have a budget shortblock built using Boss crank, pistons and rods.
 
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avexhype

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Just talked to the advisor and he did say they submitted it to Ford as rod bearing failure.

Also, here is the part number for the short block that was put in: BR3Z*6009*G

That shows up as a BRAND NEW short block, not a remanned unit. Even if it is, I'll take it over the ticking block any day!
 

Buggywhips

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Good story. Mine is similar with the only difference being they replaced the long block and there was material in my oil filter.
 

03Sssnake

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Just talked to the advisor and he did say they submitted it to Ford as rod bearing failure.

Also, here is the part number for the short block that was put in: BR3Z*6009*G

That shows up as a BRAND NEW short block, not a remanned unit. Even if it is, I'll take it over the ticking block any day!

I had a bad experience in the past with this process, ended up with reman and not a new motor like I was led to believe. I just don't have much trust/faith in dealerships anymore. I see you are local, if you don't mind saying, what dealer did you take it to?
 

1FastFord

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Hope you have better luck than me. I had same noise and got new short block only mine has come back. It is now at dealer for same problem.
 

avexhype

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03SSnake, i actually moved to north Texas in Feb and this is where it got fixed. If you would still like info PM me.

And yeah, I wouldn't rule out that it is indeed a remanned unit, but honestly, she is running WAAAAAYYYYY better now than before and without the tick so I'll take this one anyway.
 
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avexhype

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Hope you have better luck than me. I had same noise and got new short block only mine has come back. It is now at dealer for same problem.

DUDE! Don't scare me lol. Honestly it if comes back I might start looking at that 2016 'Maro or a ls3 vette ;) lol jk....
 

1FastFord

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Sorry, don't want to lessen your enthusiasm. My failure was listed as the main bearings as well. I am thinking about trading it in as well. If you have time, try to get a long block. I think the problem is also in the heads area as well which is why I have it again.
 
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avexhype

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Thanks for the info. I'll keep and ear out for it and bring it back if it is there again. They were very cool and took good care of me so I doubt they'd say no if that is necessary.
 

Famine

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This is a good start to isolating a true common denominator. I hope one day ford will issue a tsb, but for something like this, it would probably be on a case by case basis. I wonder if anyone with the Aluminator has had this issue yet.
 

2013.5.0

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Avexhype, congratulations on your success. As far as I'm aware, BR3Z6009G is a new short block. I believe they are legally obligated to tell you if it's remanufactured. For instance, this part number: 5C3Z-6006-BARM

http://oemfordparts.jackyjones.com/oe-ford/5c3z6006barm

Versus: ER3Z-6006-A

http://www.gaudinautoparts.com/oe-ford/er3z6006a

And: BR3Z-6009-G

http://oemfordparts.jackyjones.com/oe-ford/br3z6009g

Also that I'm aware, Ford offers better warranties for remanufactured engines as a sop to keep our minds at ease.



An oddity is the difference in price for the various 11-14 engine assemblies. The '15 engines show the same difference based mostly around what appears to be if you have the track pack. The ER3Z assemblies have around 100 dollar price differential based on 'premium turbo brakes' (brembos or track pack?), where mine is the part number associated with regular base Mustang GTs, yet I have brembos.

I hope for you, as I hope for myself, that the problem stays gone with the new engine. I hope that 1fast gets resolution as well. My car is also one of those which suffered the issue. As soon as I heard the voicemail from the service advisor I called to see if they ordered a long or short block. I was going to have them order a long block if they hadn't already planned to do so, and pay the difference, because at 58300 miles I'd rather have everything new in the engine, and after you remove the difference in disassembly and reassembly labor, the difference should be less than 2000 dollars. For cause it seems that so few people get resolution and so few share their experiences, that it's going to difficult to find any common thread. I would say it's almost guaranteed that we're seeing many different problems here if it weren't for the linking thread of the oil change. As I've said before, that such a sound would manifest directly because of an oil change is baffling. I have either 12 months/12000 miles or 2 years/unlimited miles warranty on the new engine. The dealer that did the work alleges 12/12000, the dealership I usually take my car to avers 2/unlimited. Since I have 500 miles left on my powertrain warranty, that at least takes some of the pressure off me.

I have no idea what caused it, but this is the writeup in my paperwork:


1 -- Cause/Action to take
Tech check on customer concern, notice ticking noise tapping, coming from left rear of engine. Ran oasis and found no tsbs or ssms. Ran koeo self test--pass, ran koer self test--pass, test drove while monitoring pids--pass. Compared to like unit and found noise is not normal. Checked engine oil and level-level ok but found signs of metal contamination (glitter). Removed serpentine belt and found noise does not change. Used stethoscope and and confirmed loudest at left rear of engine. Used cylinder cancellation to manually cancel each cylinder one by one but noise did not change. During diag I found that noise is most present when at operating temps. Checked engine oil pressure--fail--low below specs. Used lower end engine noise diagnostic aid-found excessive metal in engine oil filter. Removed engine oil pan in chassis and found metal slivers in engine oil pan and pick up. Recommend remove engine and take apart for inspection and cost cap. Removed engine with subframe and transmission. Removed trans from engine and engine from subframe. Removed valve covers and inspected--fail--found light scoring at camshafts and cylinder head cam caps, I can feel the scoring with my finger nail. Removed all spark plugs and inspected with bore scope--fail-cylinder wall scoring. Filled out cost cap--replace. Sent p/a.

1 -- Correction/Action Taken
R/R engine assembly (MT.8 for stripped nut at exhaust flange), transferred all reusable components, installed engine into subframe and trans to engine. Re-assembled- set all fluid levels to specs, cleared KAM, performed cylinder missfire learn procedure. Test drove and recheck--ok, customer concern no longer present. Confirmed engine as the root cause of the customer concern.

The part number is ER3Z-6006-A. As far as I can find it is a new long block. I was going to make sure they did not replace with a remanufactured unit when I called to ask if it was a long- or shortblock replacement, but because he said 'new engine' I assumed (don't assume) it was new in the sense of not remanufactured.

At around 300-500 miles it made a few untoward noises when I started it up warm after it sat a few hours since last use, which went away after a minute or so. For the moment at 1200 miles on engine, it is ok, and it is especially apparent how much more smoothly this engine runs. There are a few things that come to mind with the old engine. One, I have never had a low oil pressure warning, so I hope no defective sensor. Two, as far as I know the noise started at 47500 miles after I took it to my local dealership for an oil change because my garage was too ful to do it this time. I wonder if they dry fired it, or underfilled the oil accidentally etc. It had never happened before. Three, although I should definitely have done something about it, the employees of the dealership from which I bought my car drove it 34 miles while I was signing the paperwork. I only noticed this when I got home because the odometer didn't match what miles I put on and its mileage when I stopped test driving it. God only knows what those hellbound sons of bitches did to my car. My previous car had finally croaked and I needed this badly enough as I daily that I let it slide. I have a beater daily to relieve the Mustang from its menial duties, and I will never allow that kind of thing again.

1Fast, let us know how your situation turns out. I hope it's for the best. If this happens to my car again, I'm going to try to get it fixed again, but I will probably have to trade it in, too.
 
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avexhype

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2013.5.0, thanks for sharing! More of us who have these issues need to provide details to try and narrow this down. If i remember correctly, the first time I changed the oil on this car it was right around 45k miles too, so that's close to when you started noticing the tick too. I always go to the dealer for the oil change as well in case that matters.

I'm currently at 68k miles and I wish I had gotten a long block, but as long as the ticking doesn't come back for a few years, i'll be happy (plan to get a new car in 2017/2018 anyway). I'll have to look to see if my warranty changed at all or if my CPO 7yr/100k powertrain warranty trumps it anyway.
 

1FastFord

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Just heard from ford, they test drove it and verified the noise. They have contacted ford senior engineer and are waiting for next steps but they think the engine will need to be replaced again. Unbelievable that I now need 2 engines before 8000 miles
 
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