McLeod RXT owners, Pedal heigh/release point questions

cobracide

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How is the release on the RXT?

Is it on/off like a switch, or can you slip it like a stock style clutch?


I'm getting ready to buy a clutch for my car and needs something that doesn't have the on/off characteristic since I use my Cobra as my DD and my wife drives it frequently also.

The travel is longer to engage on my RST than stock. I think with the twin disk design this is normal since you have two clutch disks.
 

04torchred

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For what its worth I just installed my RXT a couple weeks ago.

I first put it in with the stock pivot ball. This resulted in my TOB pushing up against the pressure plate fingers with my FIORE adjuster all the way in. No good.

So I pulled the trans and installed a lakewood adjustable pivot ball. I lowered it 3-4mm over the stock height and now I have the correct amount of clearance with the cable installed and adjuster all the way in.

Now when I adjust the firewall adjuster out I will remove some of this distance and bring the TOB closer to the fingers.

Before with the stock pivot ball it was way to tight I had zero adjustability on the TOB with the firewall adjuster.

Should have the car on the road in 2 weeks and then I can give feedback on how it feels. I like my pedal releasing off the floor so I am hoping it stays like that. My spec 3+ grabbed right off the floor when I adjusted it.
 

black 10th vert

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For what its worth I just installed my RXT a couple weeks ago.

I first put it in with the stock pivot ball. This resulted in my TOB pushing up against the pressure plate fingers with my FIORE adjuster all the way in. No good.

So I pulled the trans and installed a lakewood adjustable pivot ball. I lowered it 3-4mm over the stock height and now I have the correct amount of clearance with the cable installed and adjuster all the way in.

Now when I adjust the firewall adjuster out I will remove some of this distance and bring the TOB closer to the fingers.

Before with the stock pivot ball it was way to tight I had zero adjustability on the TOB with the firewall adjuster.

Should have the car on the road in 2 weeks and then I can give feedback on how it feels. I like my pedal releasing off the floor so I am hoping it stays like that. My spec 3+ grabbed right off the floor when I adjusted it.

Thanks for the info on the adjustable pivot. I am planning to use the RXT when it is clutch time for me, so this will save a lot of extra work, knowing to install the adjustable one right away.;-)
 

04sleeper

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I first put it in with the stock pivot ball. This resulted in my TOB pushing up against the pressure plate fingers with my FIORE adjuster all the way in. No good.
What flywhee are you running Schyler? Sounds like it might be a little thicker than the stock one.

This is the reason every set up is a little different.

Did you add a small amount of preload to the TOB?
 

ScottsdaleSnake

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I reused the stock pivot ball and have no issues at all like described above...there's plenty of adjustment in either direction on the firewall adjuster if needed, and the engagement is a little lower than the brake pedal. Matter of fact, when I discussed my parts list to do the clutch (adjustable pivot ball being one of the parts) with my shop, he insisted that I wouldn't need one and that over the years he has never needed to use one in any Cobra he has done a RST/RXT on. That being said, the previous poster had an interesting point regarding the type of flywheel being used and the differences in width; I have a Fidanza aluminum. It may be interesting to see what particular flywheel people use with their RST/RXT's in order to correlate differences in width that warrant an adjustable pivot ball...I mean, we're talking millimeters here, right? Finally, when I spoke with Lee at McLeod, he said the adjustable pivot ball is not needed in the 03/04 Cobra. Regardless, it seems some people need it for proper engagement, or is it that their choice of flywheel requires the use of it? Hmm...:shrug:
 

Heater

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I reused the stock pivot ball and have no issues at all like described above...there's plenty of adjustment in either direction on the firewall adjuster if needed, and the engagement is a little lower than the brake pedal. Matter of fact, when I discussed my parts list to do the clutch (adjustable pivot ball being one of the parts) with my shop, he insisted that I wouldn't need one and that over the years he has never needed to use one in any Cobra he has done a RST/RXT on. That being said, the previous poster had an interesting point regarding the type of flywheel being used and the differences in width; I have a Fidanza aluminum. It may be interesting to see what particular flywheel people use with their RST/RXT's in order to correlate differences in width that warrant an adjustable pivot ball...I mean, we're talking millimeters here, right? Finally, when I spoke with Lee at McLeod, he said the adjustable pivot ball is not needed in the 03/04 Cobra. Regardless, it seems some people need it for proper engagement, or is it that their choice of flywheel requires the use of it? Hmm...:shrug:



I'm also curious as to which flywheel people are using and if that might be the reason as to why or why not, they are having problems with the RST/RXT.
 

cobracide

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McLeod Steel flywheel - NEEDED the adjustable pivot ball. Why take the chance, it's a forty dollar part. Without it, the clutch would never disengage fully.
 
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murse

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I used the lakewood adjustable($25) with a spec alum flywheel. To be honest I didn't even try the stock one.
 

Forza Aerospace

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This is probably the best thread i've ever seen on properly setting up a full clutch assembly. I have the LDC Freeplay mod and now think i'm going to take it off. I also have my TOB an 1/8" off the fingers, because before the install of my new tranny, TOB, pressure plate, Fiore quadrant/firewall adjuster, and clutch I was eating TOB's every 10k miles. I'm hoping my new set up works out and runs perfect, it feels pretty good so far. The only thing i'm worried about is that my clutch doesn't fully disengage.
 

04sleeper

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This is probably the best thread i've ever seen on properly setting up a full clutch assembly. I have the LDC Freeplay mod and now think i'm going to take it off. I also have my TOB an 1/8" off the fingers, because before the install of my new tranny, TOB, pressure plate, Fiore quadrant/firewall adjuster, and clutch I was eating TOB's every 10k miles. I'm hoping my new set up works out and runs perfect, it feels pretty good so far. The only thing i'm worried about is that my clutch doesn't fully disengage.
As long as you have a slight amount of preload on the TOB you will be fine. Just like it was intended to do from the factory. It won't slip.
 

nooner

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I have the RST and a new Fidanza aluminum flywheel with only 300 miles on it. My release point is also very high and the firewall adjuster is turned in all the way to the firewall. I have the LDC freeplay mod so I'll be removing that. I think I could get used to where the clutch engages, but if I can't, apparently an adjustable pivot ball is the way to fix that. My engine and tranny is currently out of the car now. Does installing the pivot ball require pulling the tranny? If so, then I should probably install it now.
 

cobracide

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I have the RST and a new Fidanza aluminum flywheel with only 300 miles on it. My release point is also very high and the firewall adjuster is turned in all the way to the firewall.

The release point is a preference but the higher, the better I think. The twin disk needs some clutch pedal travel to fully disengage and you can shift faster when the engagement/disengagement point is higher. The firewall adjuster should not have to be turned all the way out. My Fiore microclick provides ample adjustment.

I have the LDC freeplay mod so I'll be removing that. I think I could get used to where the clutch engages, but if I can't, apparently an adjustable pivot ball is the way to fix that. My engine and tranny is currently out of the car now. Does installing the pivot ball require pulling the tranny? If so, then I should probably install it now.

If you want the clutch to release lower, the pivot ball has to be lower. Yes, do it now as the trans needs to be out.
 
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DaveHutch

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ALL great info in here. No shops are open today and i was going to install my new RST tonight...

can someone PLEASE chime in.......

as far as the adapter ring with the 8 bolts, do you install this FIRST, then the flywheel and bolts? or is it Flywheel, THEN the adapter ring and then the bolts..

i have heard two ways and lee from mcleoud was saying that is VERY important to get right.

thanks guys..
 

gargstang

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as far as the adapter ring with the 8 bolts, do you install this FIRST, then the flywheel and bolts? or is it Flywheel, THEN the adapter ring and then the bolts..

Factory flywheel? If so flywheel first, adapter ring, then bolt it down.
 

DaveHutch

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yes. but i sent it to mcloud to have it resurfaced and a new heat shield per Lees advice installed. For some reason i could have swore he said adapter ring first.

also....the 8 holes on the crank and my flywheel do not match up perfectly. im going nuts trying to figure it out...

i will post a picture.
 

DaveHutch

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GetAttachment.aspx
 

DaveHutch

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picture is kinda small, but as you can see the holes dont all line up perfectly.

OP sorry to kinda hijack, just seems this thread has a TON of knowledge on this clutch.

thanks guys.
 

DaveHutch

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oh also....if it is a fidanza flywheel....which i actually need to check i think it is....is it the same? bolt the flywheel then the adapter ring?
 

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