McLeod RXT owners, Pedal heigh/release point questions

[DHGTerminator]

News update*

Dropped the car off today with an adjustable pivot ball, the MM clutch pedal adjuster, and the steeda quadrant with a stock cable to see how the setup listed in my original post will work! I'll report back after! :banana:

 

[BlckBox04]

man am I happy I read this thread. I just broke 1200 miles on my new rxt and I was getting really bent out of shape because the engagement of the clutch raised to just above the brake pedal and I was getting the impression that I was about to warp another rxt. now I feel better.

 

[teamstorm02]

yes. but i sent it to mcloud to have it resurfaced and a new heat shield per Lees advice installed. For some reason i could have swore he said adapter ring first.

also....the 8 holes on the crank and my flywheel do not match up perfectly. im going nuts trying to figure it out...

i will post a picture.

Idk if u have gotten ur problem fixed but the flywheel will only go on one way.. u have to put it up by the crank and spin it.. eventually they will all line up.. also I've been having the same problem as alot of you.. Lee from McLeod says you do NOT need an adjustable pivot ball and will work with you to make the stock one work
... he told me quite a few things to remedy the problems.. I'm awaiting my new rear end I will report back this weekend

 

[teamstorm02]

Also my set up is McLeod lightened steel flywheel, rxt, adjustable clutch cable, firewall adjuster, and fiore quadrant

 

[DaveHutch]

^ i talked to Lee as well. the techs told me that, but i have the pivot ball...in order to install it you have to push the pedal half way down, and ensure the fork is exactly flush with the block. thats the next step. i FINALLY got my clutch on, now im having problems with my headers!!!! cant get to 4 bolts! haha

 

[teamstorm02]

There is a ratio.. u measure from the center of the pivot ball to the center of the input shaft and then from the center of the input to the center of where the clutch cable goes.. say you get 3.5 inches from pivot to input and 9 inches from input to the center of where the cable sits.. you divide the small number into the big number for this example it's 2.57 so for ever 2.5 inches the throw out bearing will move 1 inch on the inside

 

[DHGTerminator]

UPDATE!:

So gents! I got the pedal adjuster with the steeda quadrant, and instead of using the stock cable like they did in the right-up, I used my cable that had the stock piece taken off of it, and it works great! Pedal is now even with the brake pedal, engagement point is RIGHT off the floor, I couldn't be happier. For anyone with an RXT, this mod is way worth it, I enjoy the RXT now MUCH more than I did with the sky-high engagement point!

 

[Double-D]

UPDATE!:

So gents! I got the pedal adjuster with the steeda quadrant, and instead of using the stock cable like they did in the right-up, I used my cable that had the stock piece taken off of it, and it works great! Pedal is now even with the brake pedal, engagement point is RIGHT off the floor, I couldn't be happier. For anyone with an RXT, this mod is way worth it, I enjoy the RXT now MUCH more than I did with the sky-high engagement point!

Now to find a RXT set up that puts the engagement somewhere between the bottom and the top of pedal throw. I'm looking for a release closer to the floor but not RIGHT off the floor nor at the very top either.

Looking like the ideal setup for me might be quadrant/firewall adjustor/adjustable pivot ball/stock cable. For those with this setup, where does that place the release/engagement?

DD

 

[DHGTerminator]

Now to find a RXT set up that puts the engagement somewhere between the bottom and the top of pedal throw. I'm looking for a release closer to the floor but not RIGHT off the floor nor at the very top either.

Looking like the ideal setup for me might be quadrant/firewall adjustor/adjustable pivot ball/stock cable. For those with this setup, where does that place the release/engagement?

DD

Well, you can feel the engagement point about an inch off the floor until the top of the pedal, which is not far because of the adjuster, as soon as I get my new brake pedal on I'll snap some pics!

 

[Marc]

I have the same set up as the OP with the LDC Freeplay mod. Mine is releasing right at the top. Now I am getting a ticking noise when the clutch is not engaged. If I put the clutch in, no noise. We think my clutch cable is stretched all the way out. The firewall adjuster is all the way out. Going to pull the inspection plate today and check that LDC mod. Have a new adjustable clutch cable, so probably installing that. But, first want to remove that inspection plate and see what is going on with the TOB and freeplay mod. I am hoping the TOB is good, don't want to remove the transmission. But, the RXT Clutch, RXT Lightened Steel Flywheel, FIORE Firewall adjuster and quadrant and new FRPP TOB only have 1500 miles on it. I am really happy with this clutch, like butter. But, I want it to release near the bottom/mid range without the ticking. So, going to tackle this project with a good friend of mine who has forgotten more about mustangs than I know this weekend.

 

[04torchred]

What flywhee are you running Schyler? Sounds like it might be a little thicker than the stock one.

This is the reason every set up is a little different.

Did you add a small amount of preload to the TOB?

Sorry Kevin I missed this. I am running a Spec Aluminium flywheel.

 

[nooner]

I have the same set up as the OP with the LDC Freeplay mod. Mine is releasing right at the top. Now I am getting a ticking noise when the clutch is not engaged. If I put the clutch in, no noise. We think my clutch cable is stretched all the way out. The firewall adjuster is all the way out. Going to pull the inspection plate today and check that LDC mod. Have a new adjustable clutch cable, so probably installing that. But, first want to remove that inspection plate and see what is going on with the TOB and freeplay mod. I am hoping the TOB is good, don't want to remove the transmission. But, the RXT Clutch, RXT Lightened Steel Flywheel, FIORE Firewall adjuster and quadrant and new FRPP TOB only have 1500 miles on it. I am really happy with this clutch, like butter. But, I want it to release near the bottom/mid range without the ticking. So, going to tackle this project with a good friend of mine who has forgotten more about mustangs than I know this weekend.

Keep us updated. I have pretty much the same setup as you except for a UPR quadrant & adjuster and Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I haven't really put any miles on it yet though.

 

[Marc]

Replaced the stock clutch cable with a adjustable clutch cable. Clutch ride release height is better and the firewall adjuster is not all the way out. Matter of fact, I might adjust it a little more out to bring the release point a little higher.

The ticking noise is still there...BUT, a lot quieter now. So, I am going to make a adjust ment on the clutch cable and see what happens.

 

[m109ner]

Great Thread! Subscribing.

 

[94 Cobra R]

This is a serious thread resurrection.....but worth it. Any updates from anyone on this topic? Marc, any changes to your engagement point? Anyone else have updates?? About to purchase an 03 with this setup, including the Mcleod Billet Flywheel (don't know if it has the adjustable fork or not) but it engages at the top of the pedal.

 

[MG0h3]

Yes, you need to get an adjustable pivot ball to lower the release point.




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[Avispa]

The only way to change where the pedal releases is to change the height of the pivot ball. If you want the pedal to release more towards the floor, then you need to "Shorten" the pivot ball. If you want it to release higher off the floor, then you need to "Lengthen" the pivot ball.

Sorry to be so late to the party, but was searching the forum and this tread was really interesting. I had to replace my clutch cable a few days ago and found my release fork almost jammed up against the back of the opening. It was in the correct place (about midway in the opening) when I replaced the (cheap POS adjustable) clutch cable in Feb. Replaced with a factory style MM cable, but this one had the quadrant end pop off in traffic. The clutch is a Spec stage 2+ with light effort pedal.

How does changing the pivot ball length change the release point on the clutch? I thought the release point was controlled by the thickness of the disk(s) and the type of plate, and hanging the pivot ball length was only to put the fork in the right place to compensate for different pressure plate and flywheel types. As the disk wears out on a diaphragm clutch, the fingers extend more away from the flywheel - and at a certain point all the pedal travel isn't enough to lift the PP away from the disk so it won't fully release. New diaphragm clutches like RXT and RST by design have a high release point. Seems like the only way to move it down is to use the pedal height adjuster like the MMCL-7. Can you help explain? Thanks.

 

[Fopar]

Also bringing this up, has anyone tried the mcleod adjustable pivot ball? Deciding which one to use with my RXT: McLeod 03-04 Cobra Adjustable Pivot Ball Stud

Btw, troof about throw-out needing to be engaged with the clutch fingers at all times, I had mine setup with a gap with my centerforce clutch... throw out just died and I have like 10k miles on it

 

[P49Y-CY]

Also bringing this up, has anyone tried the mcleod adjustable pivot ball? Deciding which one to use with my RXT: McLeod 03-04 Cobra Adjustable Pivot Ball Stud

Btw, troof about throw-out needing to be engaged with the clutch fingers at all times, I had mine setup with a gap with my centerforce clutch... throw out just died and I have like 10k miles on it

yes 16912 is the one to use with a t-56

 

[Bdubbs]

Mines about 1" off the floor with my centerforce dyad. Trying to get use to it.

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