looking into meth need help!

04svtsnke

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AIS paraised how great it was, and I know of a few 1,000+hp procharger and turbo cars built by a very good shop running pre compressor nozzles.

Dude you have a completely different setup with different characteristics when it comes to meth. None of your input is needed or valued in this thread.

So on another note. After searching and looking all over the Internet and old post even here on svtperformance. Looks like the most common setup for PD based surcharged mustang that are intercooled Such as 03-04 cobras, is to run dual nozzles one before the TB and one directly into the rear of the blower spraying on the rotors. And running a 50/50 mix as not to corrode the blower blades. Also not running the car for the added octane but simply based off the lowered IAT's.
Now I'm sure there are many fokes say I'm wrong on here but after search for a couple days speaking to my tuner and seeing what some larger performance vendors on here have had to say I find this to be the safest andKi best route on a PD supercharged based mustang.
I think this will be my setup once I have available funds for a retune and getting some long tubes, and hope for the best..:beer:

I don't think you're totally wrong, I just don't think you're going to get the full benefits of a meth kit running it the way you plan to. To me there's hardly any point running a mixture with water since the heat absorbing properties of it are negated at the intercooler( under blower). Also even with a 50/50 mix, you're going to peel the coating of of the rotors. It has no effect on performance whatsoever. I would say do what You feel is best but if you're looking for the lowest iat2 reduction then get a killer chiller as well. My car will be tuned in early June with a ais stage 2 setup on 100% meth with a killer chiller as well. I'll make sure to post results.
 

raym5_0

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should be some decent data available soon, it appears several installs are in progress or getting ready.

I just cant bring my self to tear into mine right now....with having such a limited driving season up north.....if I was just installing the meth injection plate between the whipple and the baseplate that wouldnt be that intensive of a project. Unfortunately I want to tackle several mods at the same time as the meth plate.... change to return fuel setup, EGR delete possibly, and changing from PCV to an exhaust scavenging setup. It could be done fairly quickly, but I'm pretty anal on projects and will probably wait till winter hibernation up north to work on it.
 

raym5_0

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Dude you have a completely different setup with different characteristics when it comes to meth. None of your input is needed or valued in this thread.



I don't think you're totally wrong, I just don't think you're going to get the full benefits of a meth kit running it the way you plan to. To me there's hardly any point running a mixture with water since the heat absorbing properties of it are negated at the intercooler( under blower). Also even with a 50/50 mix, you're going to peel the coating of of the rotors. It has no effect on performance whatsoever. I would say do what You feel is best but if you're looking for the lowest iat2 reduction then get a killer chiller as well. My car will be tuned in early June with a ais stage 2 setup on 100% meth with a killer chiller as well. I'll make sure to post results.


is your setup going to the lower manifold with the stage 2 AIS?
 

itSSlow98

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Dude you have a completely different setup with different characteristics when it comes to meth. None of your input is needed or valued in this thread.



I don't think you're totally wrong, I just don't think you're going to get the full benefits of a meth kit running it the way you plan to. To me there's hardly any point running a mixture with water since the heat absorbing properties of it are negated at the intercooler( under blower). Also even with a 50/50 mix, you're going to peel the coating of of the rotors. It has no effect on performance whatsoever. I would say do what You feel is best but if you're looking for the lowest iat2 reduction then get a killer chiller as well. My car will be tuned in early June with a ais stage 2 setup on 100% meth with a killer chiller as well. I'll make sure to post results.

Man gtfo. How does my input(as an actual methanol user instead of the idiots in here who read shit online) not worth anything? I've put my two cents in about spraying pre compressor which is damn near the exact thing as spraying pre-eaton. Get off your high horse.
 

raym5_0

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Man gtfo. How does my input(as an actual methanol user instead of the idiots in here who read shit online) not worth anything? I've put my two cents in about spraying pre compressor which is damn near the exact thing as spraying pre-eaton. Get off your high horse.


the effectiveness on spraying pre PD blowers doesnt have any shining examples, but the same could be said for turbo & centrifugal blowers spraying pre-compressor....on my previous s-trim vortech foxbody, I was concerned with spraying pre-blower and causing damage to the impellar.....I know many say it works with no issues.... I had great results post centri - pre TB on my vortech which would be a better comparision to your setup..:beer:
 
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torchred03cobra

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i was just about to post a thread asking about running meth on my cobra. after reading these replies i definitely helps. but i was wondering what kind of power gains you guys are getting from pre blower and post. and where exactly you have the nozzles tapped into the plenum or manifold to gain the most power. i was looking to kind of hide the system to keep it looking as stock as possible.
 

Co-brat

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i was just about to post a thread asking about running meth on my cobra. after reading these replies i definitely helps. but i was wondering what kind of power gains you guys are getting from pre blower and post. and where exactly you have the nozzles tapped into the plenum or manifold to gain the most power. i was looking to kind of hide the system to keep it looking as stock as possible.

So far, as far as I know anyway, nobody on this board has configured a system to spray either post blower or into the plenumn itself. Everyone is mostly tapping right into their intake between the MAF sensor and throttlebody. You can hide the components pretty well if you route the lines right, use your stock washer fluid resevoir, and mount the pump behind the front bumper. Thats what I did and you cant even tell that I have a meth kit just by looking under the hood. As far as power, on a typical system you can see up to almost 100hp in some cases with the added timing and octane; however the setups on our cars are not very typical. Spraying into the blower causes some loss in effectivness of the spray due to the charge being comrpessed and heated. It still cools your IATS some and boosts octane so you can run a little more timing or boost to gain power. I would say that a max of 50 extra hp is right arou.d what you can expect in our situation.
 
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Ralo

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Ever get the car tuned with meth and the killer chiller?
 

04svtsnke

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Ever get the car tuned with meth and the killer chiller?

I did to today but it didn't to well. We had a few kinks we got out with the electronics but for some reason the cars fuel pump duty cycle was at 100% at 4000 rpm's. Caleb said he's seen this quite a few times and it's usually one of the hoses in the tank popped off and basically one pump is just spraying back into the tank leaving me with one pump. I have gt pumps and 60's. The car did make 504/504 at 4200 with 16* timing on 18psi. After I drop the tank and find out what's wrong, I'll be going back and finish getting her dialed in. Sorry I didn't have better results guys, totally a bummer day....
 

dom418

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So how do I avoid corrosion to my rotors or engine? If I spray pre blower before the throttle body? How would I know if any corrosion has occurred? Is this something you can see without removing the blower? The corrosion risk scares me
 

Co-brat

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So how do I avoid corrosion to my rotors or engine? If I spray pre blower before the throttle body? How would I know if any corrosion has occurred? Is this something you can see without removing the blower? The corrosion risk scares me

I dont think it will cause much harm to your blower if any. The lobes are so big and dense that it shouldnt be enough to damage them other than the possibility of MAYBE causing some of the teflon coating to wear off. The reason ot causes damage to turbos and centri blowers is because the aluminum vanes are so thin and they spin at much much higher rpms
 

MalcolmV8

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I did to today but it didn't to well. We had a few kinks we got out with the electronics but for some reason the cars fuel pump duty cycle was at 100% at 4000 rpm's. Caleb said he's seen this quite a few times and it's usually one of the hoses in the tank popped off and basically one pump is just spraying back into the tank leaving me with one pump. I have gt pumps and 60's. The car did make 504/504 at 4200 with 16* timing on 18psi. After I drop the tank and find out what's wrong, I'll be going back and finish getting her dialed in. Sorry I didn't have better results guys, totally a bummer day....

Bummer man. I'm going to guess PPRV delete kit? Seems like nothing but trouble for so many folks.
 

dom418

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Cool. I also found this on the snow performance

• Positive Displacement Supercharger: Roots style (B&M, Eaton, Magnuson, etc.) or twin screw (Lysholm, Kenne Bell, Whipple, etc.) Mounting the nozzle before this style of blower is perfectly safe and actually provides some additional benefits. The small amount of water-methanol fluid isn’t harmful to any rotor seals or surfaces or coatings, and it helps to seal the clearances and condense the air some more, resulting in a more efficient output. Additionally, it keeps the rotors and housing MUCH cooler, which reduces heat transfer to the rest of the intake and air charge.
 

04svtsnke

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Bummer man. I'm going to guess PPRV delete kit? Seems like nothing but trouble for so many folks.

Yeah that's what I believe. The previous owner had the fuel setup put in about a year before I got the car and I've never dropped the tank to ever take a look. Kind of a bummer as that was the only thing keeping me from getting the car done. She's at a 1/8 tank, a couple drives to/from work and I'll be able to drop the tank. I'm hoping that's all it is when I pull the hat out. You'd figure they'd make these kits where it's almost impossible to pop these lines off, even with a lot of pressure.
 

MalcolmV8

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You'd figure they'd make these kits where it's almost impossible to pop these lines off, even with a lot of pressure.

They do. It's called a Fore Hat. It's pricey but you won't ever that issue again.
Hope it's a simple fix for you.
 

04svtsnke

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Found out why my pumps were maxxed....the douchebag that sold me the car told me it had gt pumps in the car. Dan at pro dyno even confirmed but there are STOCK PUMPS in my tank. No wonder I maxxed at 500 rwhp. Guess imma go ahead and do my fuel system now :(
 

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