stang03svtcobra
New Member
its a fuel pump problem thats great sorry about it broke down now but i guess thats all we can hope for is the pump
Let us play, "Name that internal failure!"
- Thread starter coleman
- Start date
Its all good, you shouldn't have anything to hide from the waranty manager.
It increases the voltage to the pumps decreasing duty cycle.
12V @100% duty cycle is the same as 14.4V @ 83 1/3% duty cycle. So the bap gives your fuel pump some overhead.
According to KB, there are no known fuel pump failures due to a bap. I don't know how true that is since it's coming from them.
coleman, sorry about the bad news. Good luck!
It could of been a FPS failure. There have been a few of them failing and taking out motors. With the limited info, it is hard to point the finger and say yea it was "X" that caused the failure.
I would bring the car to a shop and have them do a compression check and take it from there.
I would bring the car to a shop and have them do a compression check and take it from there.
Sean Hyland makes an oiling system thats amazing for the Modular I have used it at 800+hp with no problems,same unit on the SHM/Mihovitz car.Dave Smilovic
PS:Let Ford trouble shoot it just bring it to a cool dealer if there is one in your area.If not pay the 75.00 to find out what your up against with Ford so they give you no Warranty crapola,Dave
PS:Let Ford trouble shoot it just bring it to a cool dealer if there is one in your area.If not pay the 75.00 to find out what your up against with Ford so they give you no Warranty crapola,Dave
stang03svtcobra
New Member
so any updates on what happend?
haven't torn the engine down yet so we still don't know for certain, but cyl 5 & 6 have low compression. six is worse than five. and, there is a rod knock noise.
at this point, i'm looking into replacing the shortblock & fixing/rebuilding in parallel.
i'll post pics of the damage just as soon as i can.
at this point, i'm looking into replacing the shortblock & fixing/rebuilding in parallel.
i'll post pics of the damage just as soon as i can.
ttt
Coleman maybe I can help. I just rebuilt the engine in my truck, and fresh off of the rebuild I spun a rod bearing. Also when it went, so did my compression in 8 and 5, my main bearings managed to get eaten up, and so did crank.
So here is the question, what sound is it making? Is it doing it only at a certain RPM. Or is it present at anytime that the engine is running. Describe the sound to me....is it a clinking sound or is it the sound of a small midget pounding on your block with a hammer? If you can give me a sound clip of it that is a little clearer than the vid, or a really good description I can diagnose it, and give you some good cheap alterantive options that will be better than stock.
--Michael--
So here is the question, what sound is it making? Is it doing it only at a certain RPM. Or is it present at anytime that the engine is running. Describe the sound to me....is it a clinking sound or is it the sound of a small midget pounding on your block with a hammer? If you can give me a sound clip of it that is a little clearer than the vid, or a really good description I can diagnose it, and give you some good cheap alterantive options that will be better than stock.
--Michael--
DimMaK, what's a quad converter??? :shrug:
Whitten, sounded like a very bad exhaust leak, but the experts have said it sounds like either a rod-bearing OR wrist-pin failure.
Sound is present whenever engine is running, but gets worse as RPMs increase. The vehicle is at the shop right now, so I can't record it.
compression is bad in 5 & even worse in 6 is what i'm told.
Whitten, sounded like a very bad exhaust leak, but the experts have said it sounds like either a rod-bearing OR wrist-pin failure.
Sound is present whenever engine is running, but gets worse as RPMs increase. The vehicle is at the shop right now, so I can't record it.
compression is bad in 5 & even worse in 6 is what i'm told.
Wow this is horrible news! First Racerat and now Coleman, both with Kenne Bells?! I think I may stick to the Apten Blower....
Good luck Coleman, but maybe this will be a good time for someone to guinea pig the new cobra cams!
Good luck Coleman, but maybe this will be a good time for someone to guinea pig the new cobra cams!
regarding the cams, i'm sure racerat has considered that as well...
i'm fairly certain that my failure was partially due to stupidity. running an engine even though it was pinging at WOT. now, why did it start pinging in the first place? ... not running at WOT for a period of time?
i was trying to keep it from pinging & didn't run at WOT for quite some time at the open track event that day when it finally broke.
racerat & my car don't share too many similarities: different tunes, injectors, BAP, etc...
i'm guessing that racerat's got lean while i simply failed to address the problem until it was too late.
i'm fairly certain that my failure was partially due to stupidity. running an engine even though it was pinging at WOT. now, why did it start pinging in the first place? ... not running at WOT for a period of time?
i was trying to keep it from pinging & didn't run at WOT for quite some time at the open track event that day when it finally broke.
racerat & my car don't share too many similarities: different tunes, injectors, BAP, etc...
i'm guessing that racerat's got lean while i simply failed to address the problem until it was too late.
Cooler/denser outside air.
Really sorry to hear about this. Keep us all in the loop please.
Coleman, I would venture to say that it is a wrist pin if it is making that kind of noise at idle. Typically when a rod bearing is slung, there is only noise above a certain amount of RPM or load. In my engines case, I had no clue that there was anything wrong until I began to push it passed 3500 RPM. At idle there was no audible noise, but at 3500 it sounded like horrible detonation, or the midget thing. I later came to find out that there was a machining error while doing the balance, blueprint, and honeing of the block. My wager is on that wrist pin giving way, and maybe as far as rod bearing. Don't worry about replacing the block, if you don't have a warrenty anyway now might be a good time to make what you got even more bullit proof. The good thing about all of this is now that the engine is apart you can justify doing things like boring it over to a larger diameter, adding cams, Balance & Blue print, and doing a port and polish. Believe me when I tell you that the ballance and blue print is worth the money, and compared to other mods it is very cheap. It will make that car so much smoother, and will beable to withstand much more boost or stay very comfortably at the boost levels that you are at now.
Good luck and keep us posted.
--Michael--
Good luck and keep us posted.
--Michael--
to expedite things, i'm going to get a new built aluminum stroker to replace mine & work on my broken block at my leisure...
until i feel confident enough to work on my engine from pick to place, i'll have to let a local shop do that part.
until i feel confident enough to work on my engine from pick to place, i'll have to let a local shop do that part.
I am real sorry to hear that coleman.
I am sure your shop can figure this out but just in case here is a little tip. If it is the rob bearing, you won't be able to find it by "cancelling" out the cylinders. Because even though you may cancel the spark for each cylinder one by one, the piston and rod are still moving up and down (obviously) so the rod bearing will still make noise.
Do you know if the noise goes away uner load? For example, if you take off from a dead stop, does the noise go away at first?
I am sure your shop can figure this out but just in case here is a little tip. If it is the rob bearing, you won't be able to find it by "cancelling" out the cylinders. Because even though you may cancel the spark for each cylinder one by one, the piston and rod are still moving up and down (obviously) so the rod bearing will still make noise.
Do you know if the noise goes away uner load? For example, if you take off from a dead stop, does the noise go away at first?
the original noise would only be detectable at WOT. just shy of that & no noise ... i'm assuming pinging.
but the new failure noise has been described as a rod knock all the time.
i'm going to have the dealership pull the oil pan & see what's up.
i'm also concerned about what i saw in the TB a few days earlier -- some liquid. i wish i knew more about engines :cryying:
but the new failure noise has been described as a rod knock all the time.
i'm going to have the dealership pull the oil pan & see what's up.
i'm also concerned about what i saw in the TB a few days earlier -- some liquid. i wish i knew more about engines :cryying:
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