Why'd you take the front splitter off the fascia? They come off together as a unit. Anyway, I was hoping you'd do a "regular" install for street car. The take rate for a drag setup will probably be pretty low. I doubt most people will want to deal with the extra complexity of adding a switch and what not for a drag setup.
Killer Chiller GT500!
- Thread starter J.Kincaid
- Start date
My guy didn't figure that out till it was done. Anyway, we're doing the how to at each level. As far as down stream temps we'll show temps with the base kit, and then with the drag kit.
Eta: the drag kit has been redesigned and now it's a super easy install.
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I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
Matt,
Do you leave you X4 connected and on for start up and shut downs? I ordered the mount you have and looking forward to being able to monitor similar parameters. Sorry for getting off subject. I am impressed by the Killer Chiller and do not know how long I can resist.
Very interested to see the install video and data. Maybe a dumb question, but what's the downside to not running the a/c after kit is installed? For example, on a cool morning, temps in the 50s, IAT 2 under 110, any problem just leaving the a/c off until the driver decides it's necessary?
Also, does it make more sense to remove the factory HE altogether? Along the lines of Matts thinking, I would presume the HE would essentially be adding heat if the chiller gets temps below ambient...
Many thanks.
Only downside is your car will be more susceptible to heat soak. Yes, in theory the heat exchanger is "adding heat" back to the coolant on really hot days, but removing the exchanger altogether reduces the volumetric efficiency. The difference in IAT2 with and without an HE would probably be negligible. However, without the HE, coolant temps (and IAT2s) will go up faster but also recover quicker. So it's sort of 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.
How about if you removed the HE and increased the coolant volume?
Hmm... Hadn't really thought about that. Interesting point. I have the Gen 2 Killer Chiller and the 3X coolant reservoir from Revan Racing. I think that one pushes the limit of the KC for the amount of fluid it can cool in a short amount of time. Having the HE, 3X reservoir, the intercooler itself, and the KC core is a lot of fluid to chill. However, eliminating the HE would be a pretty good reduction in the amount of fluid to chill, and it wouldn't be getting "reheated" by ambient air flowing over the HE. Joe actually recommends blocking off the HE for that reason and suggests it's possible to remove the HE altogether.
If I decide to remove my HE I will definately be adding fluid somewhere in the loop. One thought is a 4" diameter piece of pvc ~24" long and band clamped to the back of the front bumper. It should have clearence once the HE is removed. Cap it and install 3/4 fittings on each end. Run your IC fluid through it.
One problem with blocking it off, you are also blocking off partial airflow to the condenser and the radiator. I bought some lexan (2 pieces 24x6) to try it out but the extreme Velcro I want to use was out of stock so I haven't tried it yet.
One problem with blocking it off, you are also blocking off partial airflow to the condenser and the radiator. I bought some lexan (2 pieces 24x6) to try it out but the extreme Velcro I want to use was out of stock so I haven't tried it yet.
Why not run the outlet of the intercooler through the H/E. before the Killer Chiller system? Just by looking at the ST data that's pictured, iat2 is slightly higher than ambient. It might actually help a miniscule amount.
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Use a bypass valve if you want the colder temps. The cobra guys have been doing this for years. We can also set you up with a 12 volt valve so you can switch on the fly.
That's the way I have it connected right now. Intercooler to HE to KC back to intercooler. The difference you are seeing is IAT2 is the temp of the air post blower, not the fluid temp of the IC liquid. So if the fluid is cooler than ambient as I have shown in pics in my thread, then the HE is actually trying to warm up my fluid to whatever ambient is.
The HE may help with some initial recovery once the fluid gets hot, but you will always start out with warmer fluid in the first place before you do the pull if the HE is in the liquid loop and ambient temps are warmer than your chilled fluid. Hope this makes sense.
Raced with some Terminator guys way back when with ice tanks in the trunk and they would remove the HE altogether when racing. Eliminate the "heating" aspect of the HE, plus get some weight reduction off of the extreme front of the car.
here's a diagram of the bypass valve. This 3 way valve would allow you to bypass the HE for about another 12 degree drop.
Joe if you do a bypass valve would you suggest adding a reservoir or using a larger tank to replace the lost liquid volume?
op:That is the way the install instructions say to do it.
I see your point. It would be interesting to know what the I/C outlet fluid temp is during a 1/4 mile pass.
There is another thread going on at the gt500 forum with details about that type of data. A member there says he has measured fluid temps of ~180 degrees, but I dont know his exact power setup or how it would compare to any other car, such as mine. I may hook up a digital thermometer and collect some data myself. He also says the fluid is in the actual intercooler for about 4.5 seconds from inlet to outlet. So if you have enough fluid to run through the intercooler 2 to 3 times or so before the end of the quarter or 1/2 mile event, your IAT2 temps should not be affected by the fluid that got warmed up as you would be done with the race and only chilled water would have had the time to enter the system.
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