Things happen. Just keep pluggin!
Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.
- Thread starter Corbic
- Start date
I hate to say it, and it's not "right", but it's somewhat normal for a t-56 to whine insanely loud, especially with the 26 spline input shaft. Hopefully mine doesn't lock up, but it would be the first catastrophic failure I have heard of associated specifically with the whine.
That's not right. My t56 doesn't whine at all with a 26spline input shaft it just has the notchiness when shifting. Whine means more than likely the preload is wrong. Get it fixed asap as the movement will just tear up the cluster gear.
I don't disagree, but with all of the examples of the trans not getting torn up, or having a rebuild and still having the noise, it's tough to say catastrophic failure is imment. Mine is getting rebuilt over the winter either way when I pull it for a new clutch.
They should not whine that loud!
GM cars come stock with 26-splines. They don't whine over the radio. I believe it has to do with the shim on the face plate. If you look at the DIY you need to measure and pick the correct shim. I'm betting most people don't. They just grab a 26-spline and throw it into the trans.
The throw-out bearing was also obliterated and there was noticeable wear on the TOB sleeve. Trans needed to come out.
Well, bad news.
Transmission arrived and TDP got it pulled apart.
2nd, 5th and their sliders and synchro are badly worn.
Input shaft only had 10-thousands play. According to Jason you don't see whining and input failure till around 30-thousands. So he's not sure what may have been whining.
New 2nd, 5th, sliders, Stage 2 Rebuild, billet TOB sleeve and shipping.... about $2,000
The Stage 2 is won't really increase the max strength since it uses the original gears. Good for 650whp.
Magnum on the other is about $3,400 installed and have run up to 1000whp.
My brain says just suck it up, but my wallet says $1,400 is $1,400.... and the car is only making 530 ft/tq and needs plenty of other things....
Transmission arrived and TDP got it pulled apart.
2nd, 5th and their sliders and synchro are badly worn.
Input shaft only had 10-thousands play. According to Jason you don't see whining and input failure till around 30-thousands. So he's not sure what may have been whining.
New 2nd, 5th, sliders, Stage 2 Rebuild, billet TOB sleeve and shipping.... about $2,000
The Stage 2 is won't really increase the max strength since it uses the original gears. Good for 650whp.
Magnum on the other is about $3,400 installed and have run up to 1000whp.
My brain says just suck it up, but my wallet says $1,400 is $1,400.... and the car is only making 530 ft/tq and needs plenty of other things....
The numbers are underrated for the most part anyway, and the horsepower rating honestly makes no sense. How much extra would the stage 3 run? If it's only $500 or so, that still saves you nearly $1000 over the magnum that lots of people have problems with.
eta looks like stage 3 isn't for us anyway
eta looks like stage 3 isn't for us anyway
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I think the magnum requires other mods as well, different driveshaft, different yoke and maybe some other parts. I don't know if thats in your 3400 price or not.
It is.
Drive shaft needs to be shortened. Needs a different yoke. Everything else is plug and play.
The magnum isn't any stronger than a properly built T-56. The number one failure on high high hp cars is because they get too hot, which is why companies created the oil squiters for them. I'd just go "stage 2" or whatever gets you the bronze fork pads, billet forks. Some places like Tick cryo treat the parts to add strength but I don't see it being an issue. My T-56 lived just find behind 600-700rwhp for 40k miles with the only mod being a 26 spline input shaft.
The saga of the Cobroke continues.
Sadly I didn't have much time to work on it this weekend.
I did tell TDP to proceed building the T56. $1,400 is $1,400.
Hilton Boost Gauge installed.
Got one wheel a bit closer to being presentable.
Plan is to get them all cleaned up and throw a set of Rinken Raptors on them. $300 for a set of 4. Use those to drive to work and destroy on the street and save the Eagle- M/T combo for when it matters.
Sadly I didn't have much time to work on it this weekend.
I did tell TDP to proceed building the T56. $1,400 is $1,400.
Hilton Boost Gauge installed.
Got one wheel a bit closer to being presentable.
Plan is to get them all cleaned up and throw a set of Rinken Raptors on them. $300 for a set of 4. Use those to drive to work and destroy on the street and save the Eagle- M/T combo for when it matters.
I've been there before with buying a car that was supposed to be OK then ended up having an extra problem or two. I was lucky enough to be able to fix my own problems so the bills didn't stack up to much. Keep chugging along. Once its done you won't know how you ever lived without one lol.
While most of the United States has been losing it's collective mind this week over the election, I've been busting ass to get this piece of shit back on the road.
Finished up the wheel project. Wrapped them in some tires from Discount. Nankang NS-20 245/45 R17 up front. I've had good experience with them over the years holding up and offering modest performance for their price. Out back I tried something new to me. 275/40 R17 BFG Pro Comp 2 G-Forces. They look nice and they only cost $135 a piece. These wheels are just beater/daily/burners. The Chrome's have M/T ET Streets and Goodyear Eagles on them. Those M/Ts are freaking nice and I don't want to waste them just driving to Sonic or doing a burnout.
I'll need spacers in the rear to make them to fit better sadly. I'm also thinking of being a total tool next spring. Grab some 15x8's and throw on some 295/50 R15 Radial GTs. They look like Drag slicks... but aren't.
Finished up the wheel project. Wrapped them in some tires from Discount. Nankang NS-20 245/45 R17 up front. I've had good experience with them over the years holding up and offering modest performance for their price. Out back I tried something new to me. 275/40 R17 BFG Pro Comp 2 G-Forces. They look nice and they only cost $135 a piece. These wheels are just beater/daily/burners. The Chrome's have M/T ET Streets and Goodyear Eagles on them. Those M/Ts are freaking nice and I don't want to waste them just driving to Sonic or doing a burnout.
I'll need spacers in the rear to make them to fit better sadly. I'm also thinking of being a total tool next spring. Grab some 15x8's and throw on some 295/50 R15 Radial GTs. They look like Drag slicks... but aren't.
The car came with an Autometer Cobalt Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge. I hate the blue, so I uninstalled them. I'll be listing them for sale soon to cover the purchase of new gauges. Grabbed an OEM bezel in the mean time.
Picked up the transmission. Jason at Texas Drivetrain Performance turned it around in 3 days. 2nd and 5th gear had been damaged. There was a lot of slop in the Input shaft as it had not been shimmed. While the Input was fine, it was apparently an older model and he recommended I replace it with a thicker newer unit. Old one is 26mm this one is 28mm. *shrug* What's another $250 at this point.
Duke helping unload.
Old vs New Input.
Also painted up some parts. Two parts are the dash reinforcements. Looks like the OEM parts are just oiled steal so they had some surface rust. I cleaned it off, primed, painted and baked. Came out great. Arms are the OEM replacement units. They look stainless but I figured "meh, why not". Painted them. I did not bake them because of the bushing.
Shift Fork had some dents, cleaned it up.
Picked up the transmission. Jason at Texas Drivetrain Performance turned it around in 3 days. 2nd and 5th gear had been damaged. There was a lot of slop in the Input shaft as it had not been shimmed. While the Input was fine, it was apparently an older model and he recommended I replace it with a thicker newer unit. Old one is 26mm this one is 28mm. *shrug* What's another $250 at this point.
Duke helping unload.
Old vs New Input.
Also painted up some parts. Two parts are the dash reinforcements. Looks like the OEM parts are just oiled steal so they had some surface rust. I cleaned it off, primed, painted and baked. Came out great. Arms are the OEM replacement units. They look stainless but I figured "meh, why not". Painted them. I did not bake them because of the bushing.
Shift Fork had some dents, cleaned it up.
So let me tell you about these T56's.
They weigh a God damn alot.
So I was unable to get the car up high enough to get the transmission on the trans-jack under the car. I had to slide the trans under the car, then get it on top of the trans-jack. I literally spent 2 hours ****ing with it. Using a board, using car-jacks and wood blocks. I simply could not get it on the trans-jack.
Then I was struck by brilliance. Cherry Picker.
Then of course I couldn't get the damn thing into the engine. The stupid drive-shaft hope was basically 1" to close and I could not get the inpust shaft lined up... *RAGE*.
Out came the seats and thus began my battle of trying to jam up the bolts on top to then impact them from below. What in all should have been an hour with a buddy took nearly 4 hours by myself.
Got everything back together, attached the ground to the battery... and of course the car wouldn't start.
They weigh a God damn alot.
So I was unable to get the car up high enough to get the transmission on the trans-jack under the car. I had to slide the trans under the car, then get it on top of the trans-jack. I literally spent 2 hours ****ing with it. Using a board, using car-jacks and wood blocks. I simply could not get it on the trans-jack.
Then I was struck by brilliance. Cherry Picker.
Then of course I couldn't get the damn thing into the engine. The stupid drive-shaft hope was basically 1" to close and I could not get the inpust shaft lined up... *RAGE*.
Out came the seats and thus began my battle of trying to jam up the bolts on top to then impact them from below. What in all should have been an hour with a buddy took nearly 4 hours by myself.
Got everything back together, attached the ground to the battery... and of course the car wouldn't start.
So while the car was up I did tackle a few other tasks.
Removed the Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge.
Installed a AEM Wide-Band AFR Gauge
Changed the fluid on the Kenne Bell 2.2 (used their oil)
Changed the Oil to Rotella T6
Installed Team Z lower Rear Control Arms.
Installed New Set of Wheels and Tires.
Installed Hilton Boost Overlay
Installed Cobra Bob's Shifter Gasket kit on my 5.0 Shifter
I had ordered BBK Spring Isolators on Amazon. Two weeks in no communication and it didn't arrive. So I ordered them again from LMR. They'll be here Monday. So the rear only has the upper OEM Isolators. I also didn't feel like installing the new Rear Upper Arms cause I'm just burned out. I think I broke a finger, covered in scratches and agitated.
Finally at 6pm, got the actually drive the Mofo. 1,000 Miles of ownership, I got like $3,000 into this car.... just to drive it.
Of course the Transmission is still a piece of shit.
Well, maybe not the transmission, but the TOB is God Damn ****ing loud, and it's a brand new Ford Heavy Duty OEM FRPP TOB. *RAGE*
Also, 5th Gear is noisy. Other than that, it shifts and drives fine. I'm going to Austin week after next. I'll call Jason and swing by and have him look at it in person I guess. The frustration is real.
Car idles a bit high (900-1,000) and does a periodic "burp" where it gets rich. Driving, the AFRs are kinda all over the place. At cruise it's swarming from 14.2 to 15.6. At WOT it's a solid 12 dipping to 11-ish. Driving around (either soft or hard) and letting off to shift results in crap shoot, dropping to 12 or going to 17.
Boost Gauge is also all fudged up. At WOT it pulls spasms around 15psi (mid-point), at anything else it doesn't move off zero. I had calibrated it with a cheap mechanical gauge and air-compressor. All three, Hilton Gauge, Boost Gauge and Regulator all lined up at 10psi and 20psi. I don't F'n known.
Bed time.
Removed the Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge.
Installed a AEM Wide-Band AFR Gauge
Changed the fluid on the Kenne Bell 2.2 (used their oil)
Changed the Oil to Rotella T6
Installed Team Z lower Rear Control Arms.
Installed New Set of Wheels and Tires.
Installed Hilton Boost Overlay
Installed Cobra Bob's Shifter Gasket kit on my 5.0 Shifter
I had ordered BBK Spring Isolators on Amazon. Two weeks in no communication and it didn't arrive. So I ordered them again from LMR. They'll be here Monday. So the rear only has the upper OEM Isolators. I also didn't feel like installing the new Rear Upper Arms cause I'm just burned out. I think I broke a finger, covered in scratches and agitated.
Finally at 6pm, got the actually drive the Mofo. 1,000 Miles of ownership, I got like $3,000 into this car.... just to drive it.
Of course the Transmission is still a piece of shit.
Well, maybe not the transmission, but the TOB is God Damn ****ing loud, and it's a brand new Ford Heavy Duty OEM FRPP TOB. *RAGE*
Also, 5th Gear is noisy. Other than that, it shifts and drives fine. I'm going to Austin week after next. I'll call Jason and swing by and have him look at it in person I guess. The frustration is real.
Car idles a bit high (900-1,000) and does a periodic "burp" where it gets rich. Driving, the AFRs are kinda all over the place. At cruise it's swarming from 14.2 to 15.6. At WOT it's a solid 12 dipping to 11-ish. Driving around (either soft or hard) and letting off to shift results in crap shoot, dropping to 12 or going to 17.
Boost Gauge is also all fudged up. At WOT it pulls spasms around 15psi (mid-point), at anything else it doesn't move off zero. I had calibrated it with a cheap mechanical gauge and air-compressor. All three, Hilton Gauge, Boost Gauge and Regulator all lined up at 10psi and 20psi. I don't F'n known.
Bed time.
Holy shit man sorry this has turned into such a project. However the progress is killer - you're on the home stretch! Cars looking good! :beer:
Sorry about your luck man. Good work car looks good.
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Thanks guys.
As the saying goes, when life gives you lemons... they're normally rotten and full of bugs.
Tried to data log the car today using SCT's software. Of course the program said my firmware needed to be updated.
Okay, no biggie.
To update the firmware I have to return the vehicle to stock tune and unpair it......
Some how I foresee this whole update thing ending with me losing my tune and being royally screwed.
So, now I have to consider going Quarter-Horse or Megasquirt 3.
I already have a built MS3 but that is a much bigger PITA then a Quarter-Horse. I'd also never be able to be OBD2/Emission Compliant with MS3.
Either way, with frozen death just weeks away, neither are happening this year.
You've been on a rough road with this Cobra, but it's starting to pay off. Such a good looking car. When it's complete, and it WILL be, you're going to love it. Think how much you've learned about this car. You could write a book.
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