is it better to get a drop in k and n filter or go ahead and do cold air intake mod ?
Can't go wrong with a JLT intake.
...but you can spend a lotta money on something that adds no power.
Not sure if you're referring to my JLT, but I have a dyno sheet that shows a peak 10rwhp gain, and a 16rwhp gain @ 6000 rpm. Before and after going from a stock airbox to their new cold air, filter in fender, intake.
I didn't have my stock air box on the car when I dropped it off at JLT (it was a BBK that was on the car when I bought it), so they put the new JLT on first and ran it, then swapped on a stock air box assembly that Jay sourced locally and ran that next. I got the JLT for free because they were using my car for fitment checks, pictures, and the dyno comparisons. The shop that the dyno was done at is right across the street from what used to be the JLT shop until they moved earlier this year.
Ah, so those are numbers made by JLT...now I understand. "Real World" numbers are much different. Seriously, I've had JLT RAIs/CAIs, installed them for others and the results were far less impressive than what they claim.I didn't have my stock air box on the car when I dropped it off at JLT
:rockon:Well this explains it... JLT isn't gonna install there own product and run it on the dyno without insuring they have good results....
I don't see how going from JLT to stock, or stock to JLT, is going to make a difference?
I totally agree!
At any rate, I got it for free and sold the old BBK for $150, so I made out like a champ.
lol, good one :lol1:
I know this isn't very scientific but I raced my buddies auto ls1 TA from a roll when my car was bone stock and we would be dead even. The very next day we raced again after I installed my cold air and I pulled on him this time. Each day was at least 3 races with the same outcome. I think it makes a difference and OP I have a mineral gray JLT RAI that I'll sell you cheap. Works fine but I had to take it off when I did my eaton swap.