Looks good, hopefully my Cobra alternator will fit up. Sounds like I need to buy a tap & die set
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I have begun my Coyote Swap, PICS, Saleen SN95!!
- Thread starter RIO RED SNAKE
- Start date
IIRC, there was a different setup for GT vs Cobra alternator. Not at home so I can't confirm. Do the instructions address both?
Instructions address both, however does not matter, some serious(well more than I thought) grinding and shaving needs to occur to get that alternator on there to have the pulley miss the PBH bracket as well as leave enough room for the belt to wrap around it as well. Tight squeeze for sure, alternator being used does not matter, just a L bracket for added support. I sort of forgot to take a picture, but be sure to grind down the old peg on the cover, grind down a little on the edge before the valve cover and I had to grind down a little just below the PBH alternator bracket (well my friend did which I appreciated lol)
Also, the headers were a complete pain in the ace to bolt on, I used mostly factory studs to avoid possible exhaust leaks but used the BbK bolts where I had to. Man Oh man was that rediculous doing it at basically a quarter of a turn for what felt like 3 hours. YOU have to mount the MOTOR MOUNTS and STARTER first, then bolt the headers on, you will NOt have an easy time getting those in after, trust me. Pic time.
Engine on the hoist and basically bolted up to the k.
Driver side tight squeeze but NO modification
Passenger side tight squeeze too but no modification or further hammering necessary. Washers can be used here to space the motor mounts out if you have a tight fit.
Pass side near the bottom of K
And walaaaa!
Another thing of advice, bolt engine to K first, then lower car into the K if possible, then before the car is fully nestled in and you are still shy of bolting the K to the car, hook the engine back up to the engine hoist with a chain so you can wiggle the engine around, it is a very tight squeeze where the dipstick tube is, and where the ac lines run on the passenger side of the engine compartment. We had to jack the trans up a little and support with a stand and do some wiggling to clear the VCT sensors and not break the dipstick tube off. Aside from that it goes in like a 5.4 would in this car. No big thang. Hope this helps.
Also, the headers were a complete pain in the ace to bolt on, I used mostly factory studs to avoid possible exhaust leaks but used the BbK bolts where I had to. Man Oh man was that rediculous doing it at basically a quarter of a turn for what felt like 3 hours. YOU have to mount the MOTOR MOUNTS and STARTER first, then bolt the headers on, you will NOt have an easy time getting those in after, trust me. Pic time.
Engine on the hoist and basically bolted up to the k.
Driver side tight squeeze but NO modification
Passenger side tight squeeze too but no modification or further hammering necessary. Washers can be used here to space the motor mounts out if you have a tight fit.
Pass side near the bottom of K
And walaaaa!
Another thing of advice, bolt engine to K first, then lower car into the K if possible, then before the car is fully nestled in and you are still shy of bolting the K to the car, hook the engine back up to the engine hoist with a chain so you can wiggle the engine around, it is a very tight squeeze where the dipstick tube is, and where the ac lines run on the passenger side of the engine compartment. We had to jack the trans up a little and support with a stand and do some wiggling to clear the VCT sensors and not break the dipstick tube off. Aside from that it goes in like a 5.4 would in this car. No big thang. Hope this helps.
Also wanted to add, I stayed frugal and did not buy a remote mount oil filter kit... I put the stock sway bar back on and with the factory FL1A filter it looks like it will fit just fine,even a fl820s will work since those are a little shorter in length, don't know why it was necessary to the other swaps, but so far the truck f150 factory oil housing is fine.
Looks great!!!! Thanks for the advise of the started and motor mounts with the headers.
I'm gonna have a HELL of a time with this on jackstands in my garage
I'm gonna have a HELL of a time with this on jackstands in my garage
Instructions address both, however does not matter, some serious(well more than I thought) grinding and shaving needs to occur to get that alternator on there to have the pulley miss the PBH bracket as well as leave enough room for the belt to wrap around it as well. Tight squeeze for sure, alternator being used does not matter, just a L bracket for added support. I sort of forgot to take a picture, but be sure to grind down the old peg on the cover, grind down a little on the edge before the valve cover and I had to grind down a little just below the PBH alternator bracket (well my friend did which I appreciated lol)
Also, the headers were a complete pain in the ace to bolt on, I used mostly factory studs to avoid possible exhaust leaks but used the BbK bolts where I had to. Man Oh man was that rediculous doing it at basically a quarter of a turn for what felt like 3 hours. YOU have to mount the MOTOR MOUNTS and STARTER first, then bolt the headers on, you will NOt have an easy time getting those in after, trust me. Pic time.
Engine on the hoist and basically bolted up to the k.
Driver side tight squeeze but NO modification
Passenger side tight squeeze too but no modification or further hammering necessary. Washers can be used here to space the motor mounts out if you have a tight fit.
Pass side near the bottom of K
And walaaaa!
Another thing of advice, bolt engine to K first, then lower car into the K if possible, then before the car is fully nestled in and you are still shy of bolting the K to the car, hook the engine back up to the engine hoist with a chain so you can wiggle the engine around, it is a very tight squeeze where the dipstick tube is, and where the ac lines run on the passenger side of the engine compartment. We had to jack the trans up a little and support with a stand and do some wiggling to clear the VCT sensors and not break the dipstick tube off. Aside from that it goes in like a 5.4 would in this car. No big thang. Hope this helps.
nicely done!!!! great info and man that looks like some tight fits. I would imagine there is going to be a little noise at times with the headers hitting.
If you are using a stock K-member (I'm not) you should be able to grind off material there to avoid contact with the headers. This is obviously why they recommend the tubular K-member like MM.
I have always pulled my 4.6L - 4v from the top and plan to do so again. I do it with the headers, starter, and engine mounts attached. I would like to try that first and see if it works before pulling the K-member. I don't have a lift so I have the car on jack stands and an engine hoist.
I have always pulled my 4.6L - 4v from the top and plan to do so again. I do it with the headers, starter, and engine mounts attached. I would like to try that first and see if it works before pulling the K-member. I don't have a lift so I have the car on jack stands and an engine hoist.
I've never pulled a motor but I plan to pull from the top and replacing the stock K-member with MM or something similar
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Looks great!!!! Thanks for the advise of the started and motor mounts with the headers.
I'm gonna have a HELL of a time with this on jackstands in my garage
Anytime, that info would greatly benefit me so I had to pass it on... And yes you probably will but it can be done, I have done it before I had access to a lift, little more time consuming but will work.
Definitely, I expect some rubbing and vibrations to occur until I give it a few clutch dumps and wot whacks that it will wear a pattern in and not vibrate any longer. Lol
While I don't disagree with you and I usually go the same route, according to Late model restoration that will not work, go on youtube and watch their videos, they had to drop in it from the bottom, headers offer no clearance etc and they used stock k instead of their original plan of a tubular unit. I didn't want any stories so I followed their lead. But I will watch yours to see what happens. I have faith.
Yea pulling from the top works well, just disconnect the trans to aid you in doing inpt for the first time and it will come right out, usually pretty straight forward.
Just came across this thread and read through it from start to finish on my lunch! I always wanted to swap a Coyote into my 03 GT that I bought with full MM suspension, T56 and IRS in it. I sold the 03 a couple weeks ago and have a 14 GT on order lol...
throttle body spacer and throttle body bolted on, no issues there.
Cut hole in the firewall and ran the wires inside, mounted the Ford box thingy to the passenger side kick panel.
ONLY ISSUE AS OF THIS MOMENT, i can not figure out how to get this older alternator to hold a charge...the new one/new harness one is computer controlled on a 2011+. This one needs a power wire, the connector on the FRPP harness is different than my 97 alternator and they do not sell a 2011 voltage regulator for me to swap to and use the frpp plug. So what do i do?
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throttle body spacer and throttle body bolted on, no issues there.
Cut hole in the firewall and ran the wires inside, mounted the Ford box thingy to the passenger side kick panel.
ONLY ISSUE AS OF THIS MOMENT, i can not figure out how to get this older alternator to hold a charge...the new one/new harness one is computer controlled on a 2011+. This one needs a power wire, the connector on the FRPP harness is different than my 97 alternator and they do not sell a 2011 voltage regulator for me to swap to and use the frpp plug. So what do i do?
I'm not there looking at what you got, but maybe this would do the trick?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/paperformance-altupgrade-9604.html
Close, but i ended up calling the techline at Ford Racing on the FRPP instruction page and they said to use my existing 1997 harness for the A/C and the Alternator as it is already wired to the car to work properly stock, (obviously) so that was good input and that is what i did, i had the stock harness trimmed and eliminated most of the garbage and it will only run the alt and the a/c/fan.
So, are you saying you cut the alternator and AC portions of the harness from your 97 harness and spliced them into the Coyote harness to replace it's factory plugs?
I think hes saying he left the ac and alt wires tied into the factory harness. The FR coyote harness is a standalone unit
Correct, they are kept separate and are NOT spliced, so you will need to retain the factory harness for alternator to work properly (unless you buy a 2011+ boss alternator) and to retain your factory air conditioning. My next question is how the check engine /dtc will show up if on the dash or not at all. But I bought all the an fitting and lines today, my t56 cross member will be in Wednesday, already checked my FRPP alum driveshaft and it fits perfect so I will be good to go. Did my fuel pump last night, the underneath is basically ready.
I've been looking at the fuel system options as well since they need to be changed out and found this....
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-8185250-hfp-coyote-swap-fox-body-complete-fuel-system.html
Wondering if I need all of this....
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-8185250-hfp-coyote-swap-fox-body-complete-fuel-system.html
Wondering if I need all of this....
If your car is a 1996-1997 you will not, I just did a walbro 255lph fuel pump, a aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, and all an/compression fittings and hose. You do not need to drop that kind of coin but that's up to you.
Thanks again, I'd rather not either, but I wasn't sure what was & was not needed/required for the 5.0. Seems all I may need is AN fittings & hose, regulator and hose. Maybe new fuel rails.
Precisely, all you need is An fittings, hose, fuel regulator and thats it. stock rails/injectors will do what you need to do. Walbro 255lph fuel pump too.
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