Headers Installed - New Numbers
- Thread starter FlaSeaDude
- Start date
My Whippled '03 is making 594 rwhp and 551 tq with an MRT 2 cat H-pipe, and no headers. I have been debating swapping out to LT headers. This may have made my decision easy! :beer:
Do it! Plus they make your car sound deeper and meaner.
No, it was a RAM dual disc clutch that only had 2,000 miles on it. It worked flawlessly. However, the floater plate made a "rattling marbles in a tin can" sound whenever I engaged the clutch pedal. It was driving me crazy, so I took it out of the car and replaced it with the SPEC.:beer:
I have the "quiet" Borla catback with the oval mufflers. But, the car is definitely not quiet now. When it was on the dyno, my tuner remarked about how loud the car was (just before putting on his headphones)...:lol1:
We started by supporting the motor with an engine support bar. You can get one from Harbor Freight for about $60:
We lifted the car up on a lift and placed jack stands under the k-member. We then lowered the car back down so the k-member was supported by the jack stands. We unbolted the k-member, unhooked the steering shaft and the PS lines, and then raised the car up (leaving the k-member sitting on the floor). From there it was relatively easy to remove the stock manifolds and my Bassani x-pipe. We then installed the headers (with Stage 8 bolts) and my new catted h-pipe. We then lowered the car back down and bolted up the k-member. Not to bad of a job at all!:beer:
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I believe that headers are of limited benefit at lower boost levels, while they are essential at higher boost levels. Using the exact same upper pulley (RR 2.9"), my boost level dropped from 18.8 psi to 17.8 psi while my RWHP went up by 29. That tells me the engine is now much more capable of flowing more air/fuel through the cylinders. Thus, the increased HP and reduced boost...:read:
We started by supporting the motor with an engine support bar. You can get one from Harbor Freight for about $60:
We lifted the car up on a lift and placed jack stands under the k-member. We then lowered the car back down so the k-member was supported by the jack stands. We unbolted the k-member, unhooked the steering shaft and the PS lines, and then raised the car up (leaving the k-member sitting on the floor). From there it was relatively easy to remove the stock manifolds and my BBK x-pipe. We then installed the headers (with Stage 8 bolts) and my new catted h-pipe. We then lowered the car back down and bolted up the k-member. Not to bad of a job at all!:beer:
Thanks for the tips. Only difference is I'm doing mine with the car on jackstands. But i don't forsee it being difficult becuase I too have the engine support.
Also, LT's are worth it just for the fact that they are proven to reduce boost while also gaining HP.
Very nice!
I just saw that engine support bar in the new HF catalog and was going to pick it up but was a little concerned at how it would hold up. Does it look like its built well enough to just bolt it up and forget it?
is that the Torin Engine Brace?
That's what I have and it worked great.
It is very stout.
It worked great. You have to remember the transmission is supporting the rear of the motor so the engine support is only holding up the front. It was easy to spin up the nut on the support that drew up the chain. We only raised it enough to take some of the load off the engine mounts. Also, the support has rubber pads and we put some additional pads under them to ensure there would be no marks left on the area where the pads rested.
I believe you can't go wrong for $60...:thumbsup:
Glad your install went so well. Nice gain, too. Best of luck with your new setup. 
Stock manifolds = Power in sig...
Been debating on the long tubes when I do my clutch install.... Post a sound clip of that beast!
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