Going turbo, too many problems... need help

[MTBSully]

Thanks! Always cool to see more turbo builds going on out there


I don't have IAT 1 sensor. Besides drilling a hole in the filter and buying a new sensor, is this how everyone else is wiring their IAT 1 into the slot style maf?

View attachment 21987

Thats how I did mine. Works like a charm.

 

[badblacklx]

Where is your iat 2?

 

[MTBSully]

Where is your iat 2?

Its in the upper intake plenum.

 

[04yfzkid]

^ thats how ive been told to do it since if its ran into the cold side it could be an issue with it popping out under boost.

Yeah I really don't feel like buying a sensor, and mounting it into my intake piping right now.

Thats how I did mine. Works like a charm.

Thanks! Did you just splice the wires into your car harness, or buy the male plug to go into the car harness?


Going to look at it tomorrow and see what I have as far as pins and wires. Would like to do something like this to keep it clean. Hopefully it makes sense

 

[Mystic03]

just stick it into the air filter thats what im going to do

 

[04yfzkid]

just stick it into the air filter thats what im going to do

I may do that, depending on what a sensor costs. I still need to find a filter that fits too.

Thanks to some help on FB I was able to pick up a set of slightly CNC'd complete heads (minus cam gears and chains) for quite a bit less than MMR wanted for stockers without cams (I understand they have to run a business). Took them down and the machine shop said they looked tits, and timed them for me. Went to install them myself and was told to do 90ftlbs on the ARP studs instead of 80. Well after being torqued 7-8 times (several lifted heads and motors) one broke all the way down in there. Total performance in santee (the machine shop) was able to get it out after several hours and special tools / drill bits! Decided to have them put the heads on, time the motor, and put new studs in it.

During the process they found that a lot of my hardware is miss matched. Really pisses me of because I'm pretty sure the last machine shop took advantage of me. Also found I had new style (read shitty) tensioners that didn't have seals so they were RTV'd on. Thankfully Total Performance had some of the older ratcheting tensioners laying around and threw them on for me. I made sure to bring a 36 pack

Now I'm just waiting for dowel pins from ford and the correct bolt for my timing chain guide that holds the oil pump in. Someone decided I didn't need either of those.

Every time I stop by Total Performance, Greg is nice enough to blow my mind educating me and going the extra mile to make sure I have what I need. For example I had no idea there was dowel pins to hold the front timing chain cover. He could have just assumed I had them at home but made sure I knew that I needed them.

Really disappointed in the motor builder. I assumed since I dropped the short block off I would get it back the same way I took it to them. This is how I got everything back after spending an arm and a leg. Shitty part is they are "friends" and they do thing such as build billet grills that run $20,000.

Yep that's oil and coolant down there

The broken stud extracted.

And here is where I am at now. Hopefully it will be running this weekend, but I'm no way going to rush anything!

 

[04yfzkid]

Completely put the car back together by myself. Well I had a friend help watch me afr's as I got into a couple psi today because my alignment is off blocking the gauge. Felt good to get it running again!

Still having a high idle problem (1500-2000rpm). Still no vacuum leaks we can find, and the tps was set at .95. Even tried unplugging the IAC (helped with the hanging idle after a rev) and moving the tps as low as possible. Suspect it's the throttle body that is messed up and not sealing all the way. Problem is I have no one I can borrow from.

Had some lifter noise on the first heat cycle while it's on jack stands. Went away after the second start up and drove it around the block getting into a couple PSI of boost. AFR's are solid at mid 12's in low boost.

Having a water leaking issue out of the water pump. Guessing it's shot and leaking out of the weep hole. Have to remove half of the turbo kit to get to it, but that's the nature of the beast. Sucks because I just put the second new O-Ring on and even added RTV this time for double security.

 

[Mystic03]

At least its running! Mine is still a bit from being started hopefully the adjustments to my hotside will work

 

[04yfzkid]

At least its running! Mine is still a bit from being started hopefully the adjustments to my hotside will work

Nice! What did you need to do to the hotside?

 

[04yfzkid]

Found the problem with the throttle body. I'll be honest I don't know too much about these cars so this I never would have guessed. The guy we got the turbo kit off of gave us the TB with the kit. Turns out they have two massive holes for air to bypass. Borrowed a TB off a buddies bullitt and it wouldn't even idle (good thing). Ordered an Accufab for the the mach 1 intake. If it's like the TB I tried, I'll either have to adjust the throttle stop or go into the SCT and adjust the commanded idle (forgot what we left it at on the dyno).

This is the 03-04 cobra TB I have. You can see the holes near the top of the picture

This is the buillit TB that has no holes

Picture of the crammed engine bay. You can see my FPR on the passenger shock tower. You can also see how the intake tube pinched it. I've got the intake tube rotated up so it wont hit now, but I will be moving the FPR down as well as painting the cold side pipes, replacing the TB coupler, TB, and temp painting the hot side.

Also love the look of the black I/C.

Think the water leak fixed itself. If that's true it just buys me a little time until I can replace the water pump. Have an oil leak that developed quickly. It seems to be the pan gasket up front and at the back. I put RTV on both the pan, and the block, with a stock gasket in between. No matter what's been done, this car has always leaked from the pan. On the bright side I was told today just by jacking up the motor with the trans still connected I should be able to pull out the pan.

Also more bad news. POS UPR coilover kit decided to lock up on me. I spun them up by hand when it was new. Car sits pretty tall. Decided to spin them down. Wouldn't budge at all! Had to bust out a pipe wrench and scratch the shit out of the bottom to get them to go down. Put spring compressors on and that did little to nothing for my problem. Went to the other side and started with the spring compressor then tried to loosen the spanner nut. Nope had to bust out the pipe wrench again to hold the bottom. Got about half way to where I wanted on the passenger side and it just completely locked up. Bent the spanner wrench in the process.

 

[Oiljunkie]

Don't those holes on the TB feed air to the IAC?

 

[Mystic03]

Nice! What did you need to do to the hotside?

I need to raise the t4 flange since the turbo hits the fan

 

[04yfzkid]

Don't those holes on the TB feed air to the IAC?

That's what I thought but it's been a while since I studied it. Here is what I do know.
The car idles at 2500 with several know good IAC's pluged in
Car idles at 2000 with the IAC unplugged.
Car idles at 2000 with the IAC plugged in and a solid cork gasket to block all airflow
Car idles perfect with the buillit throttle body and someone holding the throttle slightly cracked open.

I need to raise the t4 flange since the turbo hits the fan

Ahh I see. Mines pretty close and I fear it's going to melt it on high boost on several gear pulls. I was planning on ceramic coating it but I'm thinking about also adding heat wrap.

 

[04yfzkid]

That's what I thought but it's been a while since I studied it. Here is what I do know.
The car idles at 2500 with several know good IAC's pluged in
Car idles at 2000 with the IAC unplugged.
Car idles at 2000 with the IAC plugged in and a solid cork gasket to block all airflow
Car idles perfect with the buillit throttle body and someone holding the throttle slightly cracked open.

Re-read this post. It sounds like I came off as a dick, sorry that was not my intention at all.


Found out my oil feed line and a/c clutch decided to go on a date together. It was one of those end of the day things, and I didn't pick back up in the same spot the next day. Makes sense why it was a sudden leak because I didn't use the A/C the first couple drives. Used it every time after that help keep down the idle. Replaced it with some summit hose. Realized Earls fittings (we have one local) is a lot easier for me to get over the line, but I hate how they don't have a stop. You can keep pushing the hose all the way through the female end. Was going to put a 45 on the pan side but it wont fit so I have a 45 off the turbo and 90 into the pan -10.

Got a new accufab twin 60mm throttle body on from American Muscle. Idles good but still a little high at 950ish rpm. Going to try and adjust the TPS because I was having trouble getting my big probe in the connector. Going to use a small nail this time around like I have done in the past.

Car is running super rich after the TB. Was in the 10.8 area under boost. When I got parked, shut the engine off, and turned the key back on. It was reading at 17 instead of the normal pegged lean (I think it's 25) when I was playing with my SCT. Have a brand new Bosch o2 for it thanks to the advice on here for saving me $50! I'll pull the old one out later and see if it's wet.

Also got a little throttle happy in boost. Wanted to see
A. if it was going to idle high after a pull and
B. If it would pop off the new TB.

Well It did pop off but then I wasn't sure how tight I got the T-Bolt clamp when I was putting the TB on. Didn't want to break it and before class lol.

 

[03SonicVert]

Looks great. Lots of progress.

Post a video of it running when you can!

SV

 

[04yfzkid]

Looks great. Lots of progress.

Post a video of it running when you can!

SV

Thanks SV! Been an up hill battle but I'm proud of where it's come.

Got a quick walk around video. Hopefully I'll get some go pro this weekend depending on my family emergency situation.

[video=youtube_share;2QNPv2Ne7IM]http://youtu.be/2QNPv2Ne7IM[/video]

 

[04yfzkid]

Had a stuck throttle situation twice last night. Found out the cruise control cable is not the correct length. As you approach WOT the cable actually stops going back in and starts coming out again. I assume it was either jamming there or my TPS set at 1.01 was affecting it. For this reason it's going back on jack stands to fix all the little problems.

In the mean time I go back to doing wheelies on the 50

[video=youtube_share;1__9vTH9gVY]http://youtu.be/1__9vTH9gVY[/video]

 

[Mystic03]

You got it runnin!! Good stuff man! My build is definetly an uphill battle too lol

 

[04yfzkid]

You got it runnin!! Good stuff man! My build is definetly an uphill battle too lol

Haha yep. Even when I think it's almost done I'm reminded "The last 10% of the job is 90% of the work"

I'm getting a bouncing idle between 500-1000. After the new throttle body it would idle steady at 1000. Not sure if it's a vacuum leak or just in the tune. Want to make sure everything is dialed before it goes to the tuner.

How is everyone distributing your vacuum lines? I'm using the stock cobra one with the three red lines coming out, then adapted to where I need it to go. I don't like how I've done it. I'd like to just -4 lines but that's expensive lol. Everything else I've looked into that has nipples so I can run all new vacuum lines would require me to drill / tap the upper intake. Any suggestions?

Also get blue smoke engine breaking above 2000 rpm, and under wot pulls. Pretty sure it's too much oil for the turbo and pushing pass the seals. Anyone else step down to a -3 or use an oil restrictor? I do have the high volume ford racing oil pump.