Fore fuel system install

[JUIC3D]

Thats strange. I have the wiring diagram for my 2012 and a 2013 in front of me and it is exactly the same.

As long long as it works for you thats all that matters. I did not want my fuel pump running if I had the key just on.

Ya man, I thought it was strange too. Right now I have the purple wire cut and the end from the harness is soldered and goes to the trigger on my controller. The other end that goes to the big plug is just taped off and left out of the way.

I tried doing the same thing on the bigger yellow/grey wire but the pumps never came on. I also tried just tapping into that wire while it was still connected and I got nothing.

I don't normally leave the key on for long periods of time anyway so it wasn't a huge deal to me. I figured the pumps run 100% any time the car is running so it shouldn't really hurt anything.

 

[techwerkz]

I am looking at the wiring diagram as well, and my only problem with using the yellow/grey is I would rather prime the entire system a bit longer so the car has adequate fuel at the rails, rather than priming just the pumps and letting fuel run through the lines after the fact. From discussions, since the Fore hat doesn't have an internal check valve, fuel can actually run back through the feed line, through the venturi valve on the hat, and into the crossover tube. They are working on a new check valve that will attach to the fuel filter they sell, but there is no ETA as of yet. That will keep fuel from running back through the feed, and keep the lines primed. For me this is only an issue on cold starts after the car has been sitting a bit. However, I normally turn the key on, let the RPM gauge swipe back and forth, then start the car.

I used the purple(violet)/green wire personally.

 

[JUIC3D]

Ya, I always let the car prime before firing it--it's just an old habit. My car has yet to 'fail' to fire up. It takes a couple extra revolutions when it's cold (E85) but otherwise it fires right up every time. No issues

 

[cb900f]

I am looking at the wiring diagram as well, and my only problem with using the yellow/grey is I would rather prime the entire system a bit longer so the car has adequate fuel at the rails, rather than priming just the pumps and letting fuel run through the lines after the fact. From discussions, since the Fore hat doesn't have an internal check valve, fuel can actually run back through the feed line, through the venturi valve on the hat, and into the crossover tube. They are working on a new check valve that will attach to the fuel filter they sell, but there is no ETA as of yet. That will keep fuel from running back through the feed, and keep the lines primed. For me this is only an issue on cold starts after the car has been sitting a bit. However, I normally turn the key on, let the RPM gauge swipe back and forth, then start the car.

I used the purple(violet)/green wire personally.

I used the yellow/gray and it works fine. If you turn the key on and don't give it time to prime, It turns over about a second longer than normal. If you do give it time, it's not an issue.

 

[JUIC3D]

^ what year cb900f?

 

[cb900f]

^ what year cb900f?

2013 a6

 

[techwerkz]

I used the yellow/gray and it works fine. If you turn the key on and don't give it time to prime, It turns over about a second longer than normal. If you do give it time, it's not an issue.

The twin Walbros made a big difference in my car. I went from twin AEM pumps. I am also deadheading with the regulator before the rails.

Looking at that diagram your pumps shouldn't come on with key on, the purple/green you said you were going to try earlier would. Like what Blaze mentioned the yellow/grey should only be live after crank.

 

[cb900f]

The twin Walbros made a big difference in my car. I went from twin AEM pumps. I am also deadheading with the regulator before the rails.

Looking at that diagram your pumps shouldn't come on with key on, the purple/green you said you were going to try earlier would. Like what Blaze mentioned the yellow/grey should only be live after crank.

What AEM pumps? What was the advantage of the Walbros? AEM 1200's were recommended by my tuner. :-/

 

[bam2012@TBR]

I am finishing up a fore install on my buddies car. I just want to double check the wiring for the controller. I have the 1st pump wired to come on with the purple wire, same way I did my jpc kit. My question is for the wiring to get the second pump to come on at 2psi what needs to be connected? We have the honeywell pressure switch installed and it has two screws for wires. Kit comes with a black and red wire. I assume there is more to it then just plugging one of those wires into the fc3 for the 2nd pump.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Using the yellow/grey my car starts instantly. Primes for maybe 2 seconds and thats it. This is on e85 with twin 465's.

 

[cb900f]

I am finishing up a fore install on my buddies car. I just want to double check the wiring for the controller. I have the 1st pump wired to come on with the purple wire, same way I did my jpc kit. My question is for the wiring to get the second pump to come on at 2psi what needs to be connected? We have the honeywell pressure switch installed and it has two screws for wires. Kit comes with a black and red wire. I assume there is more to it then just plugging one of those wires into the fc3 for the 2nd pump.

There should be multiple remote ports on the FC3. Just plug the honeywell into the 2nd remote. Now how to wire the honeywell, I'm not sure. I would assume it just connects the circuit once 2psi is reached. So it shouldn't matter.

 

[JUIC3D]

1 wire goes into the main pump trigger, the 2nd wire goes into the "2nd/3rd pump" trigger location such that when the hobbs switch sees boost, it completes the circuit and the 2nd/3rd pump receive their trigger from the first pump.

 

[bam2012@TBR]

Cool thanks juic3d.

 

[techwerkz]

What AEM pumps? What was the advantage of the Walbros? AEM 1200's were recommended by my tuner. :-/

AEM 50-1200 is what I had. Just more flow from the 2 Walbros than the AEM pumps. The Walbros to draw a bit more amps, and can run a little hotter. I have some plans to go turbo soon and wanted to not have to mess with the system again.

Using the yellow/grey my car starts instantly. Primes for maybe 2 seconds and thats it. This is on e85 with twin 465's.

So when does it actually prime? After you turn the key to crank? So it's trying to prime for 2 seconds while the starter is running or? Kind of curious. Right now I turn the key to on, let it prime for about 2 seconds, and then turn to crank to fire it up. Never have any issues unless it's been sitting for awhile, then it takes about 3-4 seconds.

 

[JUIC3D]

Cool thanks juic3d.

Use a jumper wire to test to make sure it works. You should hear an audible difference in tone from 1 pump running, to the other 1 or 2 pumps running. Just use a piece of wire and jump both triggers together to test.

 

[techwerkz]

Also for the hose end assembly here are the instructions from Fore:
https://www.forcedmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/PTFE.pdf

Just putting this here in case others are looking for install information in the future.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

AEM 50-1200 is what I had. Just more flow from the 2 Walbros than the AEM pumps. The Walbros to draw a bit more amps, and can run a little hotter. I have some plans to go turbo soon and wanted to not have to mess with the system again.



So when does it actually prime? After you turn the key to crank? So it's trying to prime for 2 seconds while the starter is running or? Kind of curious. Right now I turn the key to on, let it prime for about 2 seconds, and then turn to crank to fire it up. Never have any issues unless it's been sitting for awhile, then it takes about 3-4 seconds.

It will prime when you first get into the car and turn the key on. If you try and cycle the key and prime again it will not. I just hop it and start it never any problems.

 

[cb900f]

AEM 50-1200 is what I had. Just more flow from the 2 Walbros than the AEM pumps. The Walbros to draw a bit more amps, and can run a little hotter. I have some plans to go turbo soon and wanted to not have to mess with the system again.



So when does it actually prime? After you turn the key to crank? So it's trying to prime for 2 seconds while the starter is running or? Kind of curious. Right now I turn the key to on, let it prime for about 2 seconds, and then turn to crank to fire it up. Never have any issues unless it's been sitting for awhile, then it takes about 3-4 seconds.

I wired mine just like blazers. It primes for a half a sec with the key on engine off and while starting. As soon as it hits key on it starts to prime and as you continue to turn it is still priming. Takes a half a sec longer to start. If you slow down the key turn process and hang at key on engine off it will start normally.

 

[techwerkz]

I wired mine just like blazers. It primes for a half a sec with the key on engine off and while starting. As soon as it hits key on it starts to prime and as you continue to turn it is still priming. Takes a half a sec longer to start. If you slow down the key turn process and hang at key on engine off it will start normally.

It will prime when you first get into the car and turn the key on. If you try and cycle the key and prime again it will not. I just hop it and start it never any problems.

Good to know. I am assuming you left the purple/green wire hooked to the FPDM?

 

[cb900f]

Good to know. I am assuming you left the purple/green wire hooked to the FPDM?

Yessir.