Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
And he's back..........glad to have you back in the saddle brother!
First outing at the drag strip!
- Thread starter rdsnk46
- Start date
nice Bud!!!!
get the 60ft dialed in and 10.4X's it is!!!!!!
gotta love those lil TVS
get the 60ft dialed in and 10.4X's it is!!!!!!
gotta love those lil TVS
x2
Like to have more experienced drag guys here to have good discussions.
Andy--I know you've had success with M&H before.
I'm currently running 325/40/18s on 18x10.5" Darkstars.
Only 2 outings--first a weekday test and tune with historically terrible prep, second at a great track for NMCA True Street with new rear suspension and a bad time to try and test.
Any recommendations where to start with pressure? burnout technique?
Any advice on how to make these work for me is appreciated. I like the fit and look and that they match the front 18" skinnies but at the same time I had more confidence with my 20" NT05R and have been thinking of swapping to Hoosier's new aggressive DRs in 325/45/18. I'd prefer to make the M&H work.
-J
:beer:
I like to keep as many variables constant as possible.
Fuel level- half tank
Tire pressure- 19 psi is what M&H recommends but I had better results lower.
Pick a launch RPM and see how it works, start @ 2500 rpm and work up and down.
Always run in the DR/slick lane never in the street tire lane, let the big tire cars literally pave your way with rubber.
If you have a bad track surface you'll have to adjust
Like anything practice makes perfect.
Factory 3.31 and 20" tall wheels and tires are not a great combo- 3.73 would be better suited with a 28" tall tire like the M&H your running. I shifted my 5.4 @ 6800 rpm religiously I would think the 4.10 might be a little short on the gear but if you can hook it then it's all good.
Burn out-
I like to clean the tires off in the water and use the spin momentum to carry me out of the water. Then start my burn outside of the water box. With 4.10's I'd use second gear.
Launch technique-
Don't push the clutch pedal all the down at the starting line. Ease into pre stage and slightly depress the clutch until the car stops moving. Now pre staged, rev motor to launch rpm, slowly release clutch and ease to deep stage with rpm at launch point but only push the clutch in to stop forward movement, not all the way down. Launch from the point of friction.....
Fuel level- half tank
Tire pressure- 19 psi is what M&H recommends but I had better results lower.
Pick a launch RPM and see how it works, start @ 2500 rpm and work up and down.
Always run in the DR/slick lane never in the street tire lane, let the big tire cars literally pave your way with rubber.
If you have a bad track surface you'll have to adjust
Like anything practice makes perfect.
Factory 3.31 and 20" tall wheels and tires are not a great combo- 3.73 would be better suited with a 28" tall tire like the M&H your running. I shifted my 5.4 @ 6800 rpm religiously I would think the 4.10 might be a little short on the gear but if you can hook it then it's all good.
Burn out-
I like to clean the tires off in the water and use the spin momentum to carry me out of the water. Then start my burn outside of the water box. With 4.10's I'd use second gear.
Launch technique-
Don't push the clutch pedal all the down at the starting line. Ease into pre stage and slightly depress the clutch until the car stops moving. Now pre staged, rev motor to launch rpm, slowly release clutch and ease to deep stage with rpm at launch point but only push the clutch in to stop forward movement, not all the way down. Launch from the point of friction.....
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Thanks man.
I really like the 4.10 on the street with the 28.8" 315/35/20 NT05Rs for the way I use them.
I think the 30" 325/45/18 Hoosier will be MUCH more aggressive than the M&H, and that 30" DR will require the 4.10.
Still want to give the M&H another track trial, appreciate the input.
-J
I really like the 4.10 on the street with the 28.8" 315/35/20 NT05Rs for the way I use them.
I think the 30" 325/45/18 Hoosier will be MUCH more aggressive than the M&H, and that 30" DR will require the 4.10.
Still want to give the M&H another track trial, appreciate the input.
-J
I run the 325/45/17 on my convertible 3.55/28.8 and it works well. It's the same combo I used o my 2008 GT500 17x11 only difference in the wheel width is a half inch shorter on my convertible @ 17x10.5
[video=youtube;fbY2SqApip0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbY2SqApip0[/video]
[video=youtube;oNIpVVMfAnY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNIpVVMfAnY[/video]
[video=youtube;fbY2SqApip0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbY2SqApip0[/video]
[video=youtube;oNIpVVMfAnY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNIpVVMfAnY[/video]
Great job ... good to see your back out .... but what do u know LOL ..... JEFF
Nice times!
What's up, Jeff!! You know what they say...old habits die hard! LOL!
Thanks Elwood!
Sadly......yes, it's the main issue now.stock clutch?
Maybe not if you swap gears, I've never had a clutch issue at the strip, several 10s passes.
Only one time on the street testing launch control the pedal wouldn't return, I had to pop it back up, several thousand miles and passes since that one time.
That said, I have a SPEC sitting in the garage.
-J
yeah its hard to tell gears would definitely help but either way I don't see them lasting more then 20k miles... I only had a few passes on mine (stock) the first summer I had it... went a year with not track or anything... put some mods on it last summer it went out at just over 20k miles...
With a gear swap and just street fun and rare strip use, who knows how long the stock one lasts.
I don't understand why anyone would regularly run at the strip with the 3.31s.
Its 100% guarantee to swap clutches, ask NJTony.
Its a mechanical advantage thing, 4000# with 700tq in a 2.66 trans/3.31 gear equals clutch killer.
-J
I don't understand why anyone would regularly run at the strip with the 3.31s.
Its 100% guarantee to swap clutches, ask NJTony.
Its a mechanical advantage thing, 4000# with 700tq in a 2.66 trans/3.31 gear equals clutch killer.
-J
I understand... my point is no one knows... i dont beat on my car very often and gear reduction would make 1st really useless on the street haha... no one knows how much long it would last with everyday use... hell most people don't have 20k on them anyway not alone with gears
My factory gear set is nice and quite....after 25 years of owning mustangs it's a nice change of pace to not hear any whine. A gear swap may not whine but after the abuse of launching at the track they all start to howl. If I went back to the track I'd find a wheel and tire combo that I could run a 26 in. tall tire and it would give me some gear.
The stock clutch in my 2008 GT500 took me into the 9's with a 1.47 60'
Exactly why I'm going to keep the stock unit until a swap is needed.
We're those also dual disc clutches in '08?
That's very impressive at that power and weight, this '13-14 clutch should have a fighting chance at 9s on 18s, my goal.
-J
Exactly why I'm going to keep the stock unit until a swap is needed.
We're those also dual disc clutches in '08?
That's very impressive at that power and weight, this '13-14 clutch should have a fighting chance at 9s on 18s, my goal.
-J
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