First modifications/suggestions for 2010 GT500

[Mbiro594]

Hey guys I just got a 2010 GT500 with 13k miles on Saturday. Was originally part of the Mustang Barn collection that we bought out at my dealership.

Love the car so far but already itching for mods lol. Planning on getting Borla Ataks axle backs this week but would like to hear some suggestions on what I should do first.

I don't want to make a crazy amount of power as this will be my daily driver and I do want a reliable car for the next two years at least.

If there is a thread about this I apologize and someone just post a link.

But recommend some brands/mods you guys like. Was thinking of a CAI, pulley and tune maybe a short throw shifter. But should I upgrade suspension or anything else?

Thanks again!

Mandatory pic of new car

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[quikstang90]

Vmp heat exchanger, 2.4 upper pulley, mgw shifter, lund or vmp tune


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[Mbiro594]

Vmp heat exchanger, 2.4 upper pulley, mgw shifter, lund or vmp tune


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What kind of power would that make and what's the cost for everything roughly? Thanks man


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[sono]

2.5 BPH pulley, jlt cai, and canned lund tune. You should be able to do it for under 1k, and it will really wake the car up. Takes the car from 480whp to 540whp.

Thats it! if you want to spend another 500 bucks throw on an H pipe and let it breath a little. Better mpg as well.

Of course once you do that, pandoras box is open, and you will kick yourself for not going directly to a TVS.

 

[Mbiro594]

Of course once you do that, pandoras box is open, and you will kick yourself for not going directly to a TVS.

Would upgrading the blower eventually ruin long term reliability? Thanks btw


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[gimmie11s]

My car felt like a slow ass turd when in stock form.

First $1000 bucks is absolutely 100% a Cold air intake, smaller pulley, and a tune. These 3 completely transformed the way the car felt, how quickly the power hit, and also added about 100 whp.

Pretty much everyone on Planet mustang can tune a pulley/cai car, so cant really go wrong with any of the tuners.

As things progress (larger blower, more fuel, gears, etc etc) you will want to narrow it down to one of the reputable guys like AED, Lund, etc.

 

[Mbiro594]

Nice to hear I can wake the car up for $1000. Have $1200 to play with after I purchased the Ataks so that will be the next step


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[quikstang90]

Throttle body, long tubes


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[reeve_ryan]

Welcome and congrats!

If I could do it all over, I would have gone straight to the 2.3 TVS.
Find you a low mileage take off and add supporting mods as you "need". 13/14 injectors along with a good tune (VMP) and you'll have a great starting point. Btw I just rolled 70,xxx and 55k of that has been at 672rwhp650tq.

 

[RedVenom48]

Congrats and beautiful Shelby!

If you have your budget set for $1200 a pulley, cold air and tune is definitely the next step. If your vision is to keep it a Grand Tourer, the next thing you must do is an MGW Gen 2 shifter and Redline D4 fluid. The factory shifter is... terrible for lack of a better term. Its (MGW 2) literally a night and day difference over the factory shifter. Positive shifting is going to transform the experience for you. Once you do that, you will truly have a wonderful DD.

The axle backs will give you plenty of growl, throwing an Offroad H pipe would make it pretty loud. If you genuinely arent going to be racing, keep the factory cats in there. Plenty of power to be had in the tune with cats.

A throttle body will definitely help, but thats at least $500-$600 new. I personally wouldnt consider that a necessary Round 1 mod. Realistically, at TB will benefit with an Off-Road H. If you get there with your build goals, it will be well worth it for you.

A set of rear lower control arms should be something to think about, but round 1 mods will let you know if you need the LCAs. They definitely give the rear a much better feel and plant, but the factory arms are very good at Grand Touring duty. With a hard launch though, the rear will hop around. Just something to consider.

Welcome!

 

[ShelbyGT5HUN]

Tires, that's your first mod. Especially if they are the original 7 year old ones.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Here is what I consider the GT500 week points, heatsoak and suspension.
If you're not itching for power right now I think its better to address those issues first.

A heat exchanger and lower control arms are a must. The pulley, CAI and tune combo is a great first mod too that keeps things interesting. For a better driving experience, MGW shifter and tires are great upgrades.

 

[tktlwyr]

On a 2010...pulley, tuner, plugs and a colder thermostat. These cars run HOT! This will put you at 540 RWHP on a DynoJet. Skip the CAI intake at this point. It won't give you much on a 2010 because it already has a CAI and revised tuning from the factory. This is why the 2010s put down 480 RWHP out of the box compared to the 2007-2009 cars. I honestly can't believe people are sending you this route as opposed to a heat exchanger on a 2010.

Spend the extra money on a dual fan heat exchanger otherwise the PCM will pull timing when the car gets warm and your car will fall flat on its face. This will put you at 540 useable RWHP. If you can't use it, what's the point of having it? Make sure you don't go cheap and get a heat exchanger without fans. The fans are a must!

Next I'd be looking at throttle body (10-20 RWHP) and off-road/high flow cat midpipes (15-20 RWHP). Note that the 2010s use a year specific muffler from the factory that is LOUDER than any other year. A muffler change will be negligible in the power department and is mainly for fine tuning your car's sound. The exhaust will require a tune modification. Depending on who tunes your car (due to the nature of how they tune), a tune modification may or may not be needed for the throttle body.

Save the CAI for when/if you go to a larger blower. At t his point it would be necessary for tuning purposes.

At some point, a good shifter and synthetic fluid in the transmission.

 

[ponyboy96]

^ This word for word. Check my sig.

 

[WVTrakPak]

Beautiful car and I am gonna go a different direction with my $1200 recommendation. Spend it on track time. Go to VIR (easy trip from NC) with the SCMC group and have Tony set you up with a great instructor. You will learn so much about the car and yourself it will truly transform your experience and may influence your next mods. I find myself relying on things I learn on track everyday I drive. You will laugh at other peoples lines though what would be great driver roads if they would get out of the way! Congrats and enjoy!

 

[rotor_powerd]

If you want to make over 600 horsepower reliably just save a little more and jump to a TVS. 13/14 takeoffs are pretty cheap. It's hard to make a case for bolt ons with the stock blower with the TVS being so readily available IMO.

 

[Mbiro594]

Awesome advice from everyone and thanks for the welcome! I work at a dealer and am friends with a driving/race instructor who has taken me out a few times for free in my other cars. I think I'm going to hold off on the tune/pulley for now and focus on some weak points as stated.

Get used to the current power and then maybe a few months from now add the VMP tuning/pulley combo.

As for now: axle backs, mgw shifter, tint, lower control arms.

What's everyone's opinion on how to lower the car slightly just for appearance? Do I just need springs or should I not do it?


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[RBB]

If you want to make over 600 horsepower reliably just save a little more and jump to a TVS. 13/14 takeoffs are pretty cheap. It's hard to make a case for bolt ons with the stock blower with the TVS being so readily available IMO.

This. The 13-14 take offs are cheap, and it just makes no sense to mod the stock blower. You're going to get used to that quickly and wish you had gone with the TVS in the first place.

MGW shifter is a great mod, big improvement over stock. I'd forget about the axlebacks and go with an offroad midpipe with the stock mufflers. Other than that, you'll definitely want to upgrade your heat exchanger to one of the fanned units, and replacing the rear suspension components is a must if you want to add power and actually have traction. BMR upper, lowers, relo brackets, panhard bar and brace and you're good to go.

I know that's a big list, but those are the basic mods you're going to want to make. Just take it one step at a time and do it in pieces. I'd probably go TVS, suspension, heat exchanger and then MGW. You'll have a few more odds and ends to do after that which will pick up a little more power (CAI, TB). Great looking car, BTW, I like that color combo.

 

[Mbiro594]

So no axle backs? What midpipe should I get for a loud throaty volume? I do like it loud but not straight pipe loud


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[RBB]

So no axle backs? What midpipe should I get for a loud throaty volume? I do like it loud but not straight pipe loud


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It just depends on what you're after. With an off-road midpipe you're obviously going to lose your cats. I don't know if that's a problem in your area with emissions requirements. If it's not, you're going to pick up power, lose boost and get a lot more volume for about half the price of those Borlas. It just makes more sense.

Check out Lethal's stainless versions, fit well and good prices. X will be a bit raspier than the H.