Finally in the 11's... What's next?

UniqueSVT

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Hello all, It's been a while since I have posted but it's also been a while since I have been to the track. Nearly 2 years since my last track adventure. I was able to go this past week and ran my fastest ET - 11.82 @ 124.24 - 1.84 60'. With my MPH I still think I have more ET left but I am not looking to change my IRS to live axle and I am not running slicks w/ an IRS. I am going to list my mods and then the question I have for everyone is "what's next"?

  • Basani X
  • Borla Cat back
  • Steggy Port and Polish on the Factory Eaton
  • JLT Cold air kit
  • 2.76 Upper Pulley
  • 315 Nitto Drag radials on 17X10's

It has been tuned 3 years ago but I do not have a recent tune or the results from the tune before other than it made 483 bhp and 460 tq. I have installed a boost gauge and it looks like it is running at approx 10 psi of boost.

That's really it... I would love to hear what you think would be the next upgrade? Once I go to the track I only want to go faster... like everyone else of course.

So what would you suggest? List what you think would get me deep into the 11's. I'm never going to "cage" my car and I am looking for "reasonable" additions to get me ET in the 1/4 mile.

Thanks in advance.
Scott
 

Shadow Grey 03

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So, no slicks, which are actually easier on the IRS than your DR's, and no other changes but you want better ET's? Here's the easiest one to do. Go to the track more often and work on getting better 60' times. That's where your ET needs help. Nothing really more to it, other than asking where you set tire pressure and how you are bringing the car out.
 

99PunisherSVT

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10 psi is waaay low. 10 is where your stock pulley should be. A 2.76 should be somewhere around... 18 I think. Me thinks you're getting major belt slippage. Do you have an idler pulley installed?
 

ttk53

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I cant remember if your car has a ported tb and plenum or not.

You are at the hard point. Do you want to keep the Eaton? much further you are going to need a BAP, and Maf help, Maybe even injectors.

You could get
BAP MAFIA and 60's
ported TB and plenum (cant remember if your car has these)
4# lower
LT heades (forget what most say install isn't that hard and the car loves them)
Killer chiller

This would put the car at ~525 to the tire and pretty easy low 11's

Does your car have a 26 spline input shaft? If not plan on that along with a clutch if it on the stocker still.

or you could skip the lower, killer chiller, maybe even the headers, get a whipple or TVS @ 15psi and make 550. with possibility for much more power when you want it, and you will want it.
 

99PunisherSVT

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With a 2.9 maybe. If he kept his 2.76 he'd be making more power than that, but over spinning it at the same time. To be honest even with a 2.9 he should be making a little more than that with the LT's. More like 540ish.
 

T0RCH3D

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10 psi is waaay low. 10 is where your stock pulley should be. A 2.76 should be somewhere around... 18 I think. Me thinks you're getting major belt slippage. Do you have an idler pulley installed?

Shouldn't really be 18 psi. He could have belt slip, heat soaked, etc. A lot of factors come in to play with his actual peak psi and even then it varies. Idler would be a good idea in your situation...
 

ttk53

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10 psi is waaay low. 10 is where your stock pulley should be. A 2.76 should be somewhere around... 18 I think. Me thinks you're getting major belt slippage. Do you have an idler pulley installed?

With a 2.9 maybe. If he kept his 2.76 he'd be making more power than that, but over spinning it at the same time. To be honest even with a 2.9 he should be making a little more than that with the LT's. More like 540ish.

You need to stop posting about things you don't know about.
 

ctgreddy

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i dunno why but there's no reason to believe that just a 2.76 will make 18lbs of boost. i have a 2.76 and it peaks around 14 or so(guessiing by the factory gauge).

what i wanna know op is why you dont want slicks. a good slick(bias ply) will be WAY easier on both your irs and your input shaft so you'll have LESS of a chance of breaking things. plus, you'll hook way better. a 1.8 60' is not good, get it down to a 1.6 and you'll be at your limit if you cant cage it. you need a cage at 11.499 i believe and just dropping your 60' .2 will get you that much off your et's. you've deff got the mph to run it. so, get some slicks and practice more and you wont have to worry about your irs and you'll get the et's to make you happy.
 

99PunisherSVT

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You need to stop posting about things you don't know about.

With a 2.81 and a 100mm idler pulley I was making 14psi peak. So I do know what I'm talking about thank you. Also you don't need 60# injectors at 525. Go ahead and prove me wrong.
 

99PunisherSVT

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Correct. Not 18...And even at that there is so much to consider. Example would be if OP was running LTs that could drop psi as well.

Yeah 18 is a bit high. Bad math. Still, 14.5 seems low to me. Like I said above I was running 14 with a 2.8.
 

ttk53

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With a 2.81 and a 100mm idler pulley I was making 14psi peak. So I do know what I'm talking about thank you. Also you don't need 60# injectors at 525. Go ahead and prove me wrong.

so 14 psi with a 2.81 and he should be at 18 with a 2.76, man my 2.65/#4 lower should be at 35psi. and Why would you wan't to run an injector past 80% duty? 60's are cheap and you have room to grow, and some run out of injector before 525. hell you say he should be at 540. why chance running out of fuel.


What do I know I just have a full interior car that traps 132 on the Eaton at 2k DA Race weight 3650+lbs
 
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P49Y-CY

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what i wanna know op is why you dont want slicks. a good slick(bias ply) will be WAY easier on both your irs and your input shaft so you'll have LESS of a chance of breaking things. plus, you'll hook way better. a 1.8 60' is not good, get it down to a 1.6 and you'll be at your limit if you cant cage it. you need a cage at 11.499 i believe and just dropping your 60' .2 will get you that much off your et's. you've deff got the mph to run it. so, get some slicks and practice more and you wont have to worry about your irs and you'll get the et's to make you happy.

let me give my take on this - not sure if the op has the same thought process but it sounds to me like he might be similar based on his post

i want to avoid bias ply slicks because my nearest drag strip is over 2 hours away, and i must drive it to the track on the same tire as i run. i wouldnt feel comfortable driving at 80mph on the highway with radial front and bias rear, not even to mention the curvy back roads i'd have to take just regular driving. i could be wrong but i just wouldnt trust it on those tires.

so the car has to remain a normal road driven car without a cage, and able to handle well and not be just a single purpose dragstrip terror, that i could tow there or bring extra tires with, etc. if i could trailer it, then that would be a different story all together. so even though they only last 5k miles, drag radials seem to be the best compromise for this.
 

ScreamingFast

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OP you still have room for ET, I ran 11.61 at 121 (there is more trap in it but car was pulling timing). I know you don't want to run a bias ply tire but that would be my suggestion. I have a hour drive and carry my tires and jack with me to the track which might not be the case for you but good luck on your next mod.
 

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