Excessive oil in throttle body and intake - please help

[03' White Snake]

Vapors need time to cool and condense and then get collected. Longer lines are always better for oil separators.

Same as an air compressor, Supposed to run 50 ft of hose/line before you run a water separator.

 

[CobraBob]

This has been a topic for years. It's nothing new. A larger capacity oil separator/ longer lines will collect more oil. It gives it a chance to drop "down" instead of just passing through.

I've run the air compressor separators and JLT. Both collected very little compared to what I'm running now.

This has been a topic on here for years.

Edit: you ever notice that with your current separator will only get so full and then stop? Test this out and you'll have your answer. Also location is important...

Edit x2: BTW my 350 has JLT separators on it. But I bought the car with them on. Usually a forced induction car will have more blow by than NA cars.

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The longer lines thing makes sense. I had never heard this before, though. I just couldn't fathom why a physically larger canister would collect more than a smaller canister on the same vehicle. But with a longer hose, your post makes sense.

 

[CobraBob]

Vapors need time to cool and condense and then get collected. Longer lines are always better for oil separators.

Same as an air compressor, Supposed to run 50 ft of hose/line before you run a water separator.

The fact that I collected a tablespoon over 1,700 miles makes it worthwhile. I'm guessing the hose is around 10" long.

 

[03' White Snake]

The fact that I collected a tablespoon over 1,700 miles makes it worthwhile. I'm guessing the hose is around 10" long.

Nice. That means it’s working.

I run valve cover lines to a vented oil separator, no PCV. I run E85 all the time. You would be amazed at the amount of water I catch in that thing. 3 trips (20 miles or less) I can half fill a water bottle. Stinks like E85 and oil, even though there is minimal oil in it. I can’t imagine all that moisture going back into the oil. It’s a bad byproduct of running E85 that most people don’t know about.

I tell everyone I can that runs E85 a lot to ditch the PCV system and stop adding moisture to their oil.

 

[01yellercobra]

The longer lines thing makes sense. I had never heard this before, though. I just couldn't fathom why a physically larger canister would collect more than a smaller canister on the same vehicle. But with a longer hose, your post makes sense.

I think he meant that it could hold more between times it's emptied. At least that's how I took it.

I have a Bob's can on my car. I had it on my 01 and it worked really well. It still catches decent amount of junk. It doesn't seem to fill as fast as others that talk about catch cans on here. But I figure that has to do with me not needing to drove through soupy air. We just put a J&L on the wife's Edge and my daughter ordered one for her car last night. So we'll see how they work. I ran JLT stuff in the past and wasn't impressed. But everyone on here seems to like the newer stuff so I figured I'd give it a shot.

 

[03cobra#694]

I run the UPR unit on my 2.7 F-150.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

i have them on the mustang as mentioned but I've got over 150k on the truck so dont see adding one unless I end up cleaning the valves and intake at some point

 

[hunglikeatunacan]

what bank is best to hook up jlt shows from passenger side to intake runner and yes in 2 years probly collected 1/4 of the can not much

 

[01yellercobra]

On these cars it's best to put it on the driver's side. Has to do with the way everything flows I believe.

 

[SsnakeSVT03]

The bigger the separator, the more oil you generally can capture in it. I never had much luck with the JLT and went with a Elite. They don't make a specific one for our cars but I made it work..

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How did you get the JLT PCV prefilter on the passenger side? I cannot get it to stay in place. Did you shorten the oem pcv tube?

 

[Bdubbs]

How did you get the JLT PCV prefilter on the passenger side? I cannot get it to stay in place. Did you shorten the oem pcv tube?

No, just installed it.

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[venom1307]

Hey guys you were right. I installed the dual catch can setup and since the initial start up no more oil is found in the blower. Must have been a little pool from sitting for a few years that was sucked up from the lower? I did dual ADDW1’s. Made custom mounts for them.

I just finished the entire repair and build. Painting it next week then it off to the dyno for the tune. Went all out with her.

mod list:

Front suspension & Steering:
- H&R Sport Springs
- Prothane Sway bar ends & frame bushings
- Billet sway bar limiters
- Steeda X2 Ball Joints
- Steeda Bump Steer Tie Rods
- MM Solid Rack mounts
- Nitto 555 Front tire
- upgraded power steering cooler
- MM Caster camber plates(were not on when pics taken)

Rear suspension & IRS Upgrades:
- FTBR his full upgrade package with all new bolts and hardware everywhere. With Delrin lowering mount and machined ford racing diff cover, solid IRS mounts, upgraded cross axis joints (the works)
- FTBR Torque Brace( ditched the Kenny brown)
- FTBR camber eccentric bolts (relieved the upper arms)
- MM full length toe links and tie rods for the IRS
- MM adjustable Swaybar ends
- Prothane Sway bar bushings
- new billet sway bar limiters
- Nitto 315 555R drag radials
- Royal purple 75w - 140 gear oil
- optimized drive line angle


Chassis:
MM XL frame connectors
MM K-member brace


Fuel:
- KB Boost a pump wired up stream (with wiring upgrade)
- New fuel filter
- new fuel pump socks (should have done the fuel hat mod, but forgot)

Under the Hood:
- Billet flow 2.76 pulley with snub idler and all new idler pulleys
- Accufab big single throttle body w/ TB to Blower polished aluminum pipe (port matched)
- JLT Highboost with K&N (not on in pics yet)
- SCT BA3000
- Rousch Tensioner (properly shimmed for belt alignment)
- Stewart Water Pump
- Cobra Engineering Coolant Crossover Delete w/
- Cobra Engineering thermostats Relocation
- Cobra Engineering head cooling mod
- Afco Dual Pass Heat exchanger
- Dual ADDW1 catch cans w/custom mounts
- 160 Alternator
- Optima Yellow top
- S/C coolant tank
- coolant expansion tank
- cooling fan
- Mishimoto Radiator
- upgraded S/C water pump
- fuel rail pressure sensor
- fuel rail pressure disc to protect sensor

transmission:
- Steeda Tri-Axe shifter
- New fluid
- optimized drive line angle
- Fidanza flywheel (was in the car)
- Center force HD Clutch (was in the car)
- firewall adjuster
- fiore racing billet quadrant
- new clutch cable

Exhaust:
- Bassani Stainless steel X-Pipe W cat
- Magnaflow Stainless cat back
- sanded and machine polished all exhaust pipes to a high shine



other new parts (since it was a front end crash :/ )
- NOS OEM Ford Fenders, hood, bumper, headlights , fog lights
- JLT Rad support cover
- GTR ultra 2.0 Led Headlights
- Diode Dynamics led fog light bulbs
- hydraulic hood props ( no more rod lol)
- All new braided lines, silicon hoses, continental belts(like gator backs)
- primary and secondary pulley assemblies overhauled and serviced
- Cobra Hood Mat
- all new hardware everywhere and some dress up hardware too.

I am sure I forgot some things in the list but you get the idea. Car has 38k mile on it (I got it with 12k on it in 2012). Garage kept, not beaten. I have some pics attached if your interested


What do you think the car will make on the dyno?

 

[venom1307]

Almost forgot, wanted to thank all of you for help along the way and a couple members who I purchased New in the box parts from to complete the project. Everyone has been so helpful and I appreciate you all!

Will post the final pics once I shoot the car over thanksgiving break. Can’t wait to get it back on the road.

 

[venom1307]

Some before and after showing parts and body being cleaned, overhauled repaired and/or upgraded.

 

[venom1307]

Pics continued

 

[venom1307]

Last ones for now:

 

[03cobra#694]

Looking good.

 

[01yellercobra]

Posts like this make me want to tear my IRS apart and give it a deep clean. Looks good.