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Corner Carving, Road Course Racing and general Handling Thread
- Thread starter CobraRed_96_GT
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Anyone else signed up for MSR Cresson March 28th with Drivers Edge?
I have Koni's now, but if I did it again I probably just would have gone straight to some coil-over setup. Vorshlag and MM both have good coilover setups available, although the MM setup is pretty pricey at 5k
Vorshlag has been developing a customized Bilstein coil-over setup which should be much cheaper but not as adjustable. The Koni sport's have worked out for me so far but they do have a tendency to leak and limited amount of compression travel on a lowered car. Plus it's nice that you can choose about any spring rate and ride height with a coil over setup.
Would definitely recommend some CC plate and relocation brackets since your car is lowered. The reloc brackets made a big improvement in how my car felt even with just a mild drop (P springs).
Vorshlag has been developing a customized Bilstein coil-over setup which should be much cheaper but not as adjustable. The Koni sport's have worked out for me so far but they do have a tendency to leak and limited amount of compression travel on a lowered car. Plus it's nice that you can choose about any spring rate and ride height with a coil over setup. Would definitely recommend some CC plate and relocation brackets since your car is lowered. The reloc brackets made a big improvement in how my car felt even with just a mild drop (P springs).
I've heard great things about KW coilovers the last few years, but have no experiences with them on a mustang. V2's and V3's are the way to go but i don't see any V2's for the coyote.
Also, I've had great luck with Hankook R-S3's over the years as a road and track tire. I'm used to how they behave on a 3000-3100lbs car though, haven't used them on my coyote yet. What are you guys liking?
I haven't used Nitto since I had a bad experience briefly working for Nitto Tire's corporate US headquarters - so those are out for me personally.
I haven't used Nitto since I had a bad experience briefly working for Nitto Tire's corporate US headquarters - so those are out for me personally.
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Curious on how you figure? Some of the fastest cars on a road coarse are turbo'd lol.
I'm working so much right now that my hobby time on the car consists of working on it and back roading when possible. I want to start auto crossing at the very least at some point though. I currently have BMR springs, an adjustable PHB, strut and shock braces, and a very good alignment. Running -1.5 camber, 7.5 caster, 0 toe, and 0 rear thrust angle.
I need rear control arms and a BMR Watt's link very soon. My next step after those things will either be Vorshlag shortened Bilsteins or an Airlift suspension setup. People really shouldn't rule out the air suspension for handling. It gives you great flexibility if you have to drive your car around town a lot too.
I need rear control arms and a BMR Watt's link very soon. My next step after those things will either be Vorshlag shortened Bilsteins or an Airlift suspension setup. People really shouldn't rule out the air suspension for handling. It gives you great flexibility if you have to drive your car around town a lot too.
I'm building mine for road courses as well. It's gonna be a long process, but that's specifically why I wanted the track pack, extra cooling, Torsen diff, 3.73's, aluminum finned diff cover, brembos, and better advance track tuning (until I'm comfortable to go full off). I'm using Eibach sportlines because I've had really good experiences in the past, but I didn't go adjustable shocks and struts and GT500 strut mounts., so I'll see if I wind up regretting that. I've got a Steeda adjustable upper and mount, Steeda PHB, track pack (GT500 lowers) with ford racing brackets. Currently I'm running a lot wider tire out back put will move up to a 275 up front for my next set.
I purchased the Maximum Motorsports Road & Track Grip Box with their LCA relocation brackets and upgraded LCAs a couple weeks ago. This will be going on my 2014 Base GT with Recaro and Track Pack as the only options. My car is currently stock with Corsa Xtreme axlebacks.
I'll install the kit sometime in the next couple weeks when I have time. My goal is to have a fun/aggressive street car (~5k-7k mi/yr) that I will occasionally use for auto-x/hpde events. My next mods will probably be brake cooling ducts/fluid/lines/pads, tires (275/40 square setup - MPSS), and then, I may start considering power mods.
Also, want to throw a good word in for Art from JDSPerformance. He was super easy to work with, helpful, fast shipping, and offered me a great price.
I'll install the kit sometime in the next couple weeks when I have time. My goal is to have a fun/aggressive street car (~5k-7k mi/yr) that I will occasionally use for auto-x/hpde events. My next mods will probably be brake cooling ducts/fluid/lines/pads, tires (275/40 square setup - MPSS), and then, I may start considering power mods.
Also, want to throw a good word in for Art from JDSPerformance. He was super easy to work with, helpful, fast shipping, and offered me a great price.
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And for power mods, I've really debated a TVS supercharger. I'm sure it would offer me the most smiles. I would just be worried about the addition of heat on the track. And down here in Texas, we really have to take that into consideration. I am aware of the VMP/Afco upgraded heat exchangers. That in combination with the 85mm (no smaller) pulley and a conservative tune could maybe alleviate the issue. I just don't have any legit empirical evidence to confirm or disprove that.
Do you have E85 close to you? That would help with the cooling issues you'd have with the TVS.
For track work I would consider going N/A. You mentioned heat, but you also have to consider the higher center of gravity as well as F/R weight distribution. Long term my goals would be a completely forged rotating assembly, Boss heads with valves, etc and a Cobra Jet IM, TB and intake, with full exhaust, and help things out with a light weight flywheel and driveshaft.
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There's only 1 E85 station within a reasonable distance of me, and I don't want to be switching back and forth. I have considered race gas for the hpde days.
Good points on weight distribution. I hadn't really considered that, but it's a valid addition.
The part that bothers me about n/a is "bang for buck". It seems that I would have similar money as a supercharger invested but only be around 450-470whp. I'm sure that it would be a blast, and the setup would be more durable... But I'd always wonder what another 100whp felt like
What spring rate are you guys liking on your Koni's for handling? 230-240 front/ 200 rear?
I did not say it can't be done as I too am aware of many top level guys with turbos, but the typical kits out there are not designed for the rigors of road racing. My knowledge is mustang specific as I don't mess with other platforms. All the "typical" mustang turbo setups that I have seen running 30 minute sessions have had cracking issues.
if I was using this dampers I would go with 1 of 3 spring selections:
Steeda sports - 200f 175r linear
Maximum Motorsports - 320/360f 260/380r progressive
BMR handling springs - 240f 200r linear front/dual rate rear
these springs are usually paired with those dampers in packages from various vendors like strano, MM and BMR and Steeda have similar spring rates where as MM has a higher rate but they are more experienced with pairing their spring with the right dampers so I trust their judgement.
Good points on weight distribution. I hadn't really considered that, but it's a valid addition.
The part that bothers me about n/a is "bang for buck". It seems that I would have similar money as a supercharger invested but only be around 450-470whp. I'm sure that it would be a blast, and the setup would be more durable... But I'd always wonder what another 100whp felt like
If you're more interested in track day events vs drag racing then why even focus on more HP? Anything you spend on good suspension parts or tires is likely to help make you much faster around a course than additional HP. I'd agree with leaving it NA for now. No matter what FI setup you choose it's a lot of additional heat and stress you're putting into the motor. Considering oil temps are already an issue with extended sessions it seems like a significant risk, especially on a stock short block. Even NA I would suggest running some sort of oil cooler. I have the Cooltech kit, which is retardedly expensive but still much cheaper than a new motor
Nice thread, taking notes as I want to start going this route as well, drag racing is fun, but i'd like to try something different this time around.
My GT came equipped with Brembo pack and 3.73's, I have a strut bar with the GT logo on it, is it worth a damn for cornering ?
I'll be starting with the Steeda Pro-Action strut/shocks and Steed Sport springs, i'll be ordering probably next month or so.
Would I need camber/caster plates to have a proper alignment ?
My GT came equipped with Brembo pack and 3.73's, I have a strut bar with the GT logo on it, is it worth a damn for cornering ?
I'll be starting with the Steeda Pro-Action strut/shocks and Steed Sport springs, i'll be ordering probably next month or so.
Would I need camber/caster plates to have a proper alignment ?
You can use strut camber bolts. They're only about $30.
Strut braces do help a little.
Strut braces do help a little.
My last track mustang was like 80% MM and 20% Griggs, so I'm def a fan - but those spring rates look high to me at first glance for my 90% road driven DD that I'll track once and awhile.
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