Coming Soon! 200 Amp Alternator rebuild.

[wjurls]

First off let me start by saying if you don't already have an aftermarket voltage gauge in your Terminator now would be a good time to get one. I have been watching my idle voltage get worse and worse on my Speedhut gauge over the past few months once the alt gets hot. I've seen it drop as low as 12V when the car is on high fan a/c on etc (this voltage was confirmed on a quality DMM). Even at voltages this low I never saw the factory idiot light come on. Knowing that my alt was heading south I went ahead and ordered a 200 amp rebuild kit. Now finally today the alt light started to flash at higher rpm. Ironically when it comes on the actual battery voltage was above 13. I attribute this to the fact that the factory light monitors the field inside the alt and not battery voltage.

Hope to get this done tommorow or at the latest by this weekend. I will post up some pics as I go.
Here are the new parts

 

[lxhatch302]

where did you buy the rebuild from??

im on my 4th oreillys alt now in 4 months....

 

[Tractionless1]

Upgrading to 200 amp doesn't mean it will live longer or run cooler. You're better off running a 3.7" or 4" alt. pulley to slow the rpm's.

 

[lxhatch302]

Upgrading to 200 amp doesn't mean it will live longer or run cooler. You're better off running a 3.7" or 4" alt. pulley to slow the rpm's.

already have a 3.2 on it...the reason why it goes out faster is because its a POS reman from the local parts store...never had any luck with starters,alts,so on reman from a parts store

and also just found out that theyre only a 110amp...i also have a stero system now in the car so would like to have the extra amps

 

[TVSCobra]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/713787-rebuild-alternator.html

I also found this site:

High Output Alternators - Alternator & Starter Repair Kits - Alternator Parts - Ford 6G 130/135Amp Heavy Duty Alternator Rebuild Kit

 

[wjurls]

Upgrading to 200 amp doesn't mean it will live longer or run cooler. You're better off running a 3.7" or 4" alt. pulley to slow the rpm's.

I never claimed that this should last longer. The higher amperage won't help at idle anyway. There isn't much we can do about the heat so if I can rebuild with a larger heavier duty stator that's what I am going to do. 110 amp stock isn't so great for our cars. The cooling fan alone is a huge power drain. I already have a larger pulley as well.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/713787-rebuild-alternator.html

I also found this site:

High Output Alternators - Alternator & Starter Repair Kits - Alternator Parts - Ford 6G 130/135Amp Heavy Duty Alternator Rebuild Kit

Spring hill is the same site I got mine however you linked to the kit for the large case 6G.

Here is the kit I bought.
High Output Alternators - Alternator & Starter Repair Kits - Alternator Parts - Ford 6G 200 Amp High Output Upgrade/Rebuild Kit
If you want a stock 110 amp kit use this one.
High Output Alternators - Alternator & Starter Repair Kits - Alternator Parts - Ford 6G 110Amp Heavy Duty Alternator Rebuild Kit
The standard kit comes with the diode set but not the stator assembly.

All the parts appear to made in Canada and not China or Mexico
Bearings made by a company called WBD based out of PA

 

[Parts-is-Parts]

200a in a small case will do more harm than good.

Keep the alternator cool via a cooling duct or fan pointed at it and the problems will vanish.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Yeah 200 in a small case seems High to me as well?? but good luck I hope it works out since this is getting more common especially in the Hot summer months it seems like a member here is posting a thread on cooking their Alt every other day!

 

[Tractionless1]

3.2 is still not big enough. There was a thread awhile back about underdriving the alt. to just above 1500 rpm (alt speed) if possible as it is producing the req. voltage that low. In theory it is expected to help the longevity. I currently have a 3.7 w/my 8lb setup and will be going 4" when I step down to a 6lb.

 

[TVSCobra]

Im thinking of running a cooling duct to my alt. In the cooler months my voltage is around 13.6-14.0. In the hotter months it is as low as 12.9. Everytime I test it with the VAT it passes and puts out 98-110 amps with full electrical load at 2000 rpms.

 

[wjurls]

Well so far so good. I didn't take any more pics because the alternator didn't come apart very gracefully so I didn't bother. A press is recommended for the job to cinch the bearings and case together. The stator is a slight friction fit in the case as are the bearings to the rotor. Also the rear case, rear bearing and bearing sleeve must be pressed on as an assembly after the rotor is set in the stator and regulator installed and brush clip removed. Once it was all assembled I had a slight bit of interference between the stator and rotor assembly. A slight manipulation of the rear case with a small mallet got everything lined up and free but I have a little concern about the longevity :dw: . I might do a junkyard crawl for some small 6G cores and do some stock and some 200 amp rebuilds and post more procedure details here. Charge at idle still sucks with the 3.4" pulley but as soon as RPM's kick above 1K, this thing jumps to 14V with a full electrical load. Only time will tell how well this turns out. Hell, even Autozone rebuilds can last one day LOL.

 

[hotrodjcc]

I've swapped my 4th Alternator. Going with an OEM with a 3in pulley. I thinking of relocating my battery to kind of help free up some space around the alternator since it is heat that is the main killer of the alternators

 

[03yellow]

If your running an oreillys alt then it's 90 or 110amp. They have the wrong app in their books. You need a 130 amp alt. All local parts stores do not sell a 130 amp alt for our cars.

where did you buy the rebuild from??

im on my 4th oreillys alt now in 4 months....

 

[03yellow]

More amps = more windings= more heat & less airflow!

 

[R-code17815]

I have a 200A. in my Mach and love it!!!

 

[lemosley01]

I'm waiting for Jamie (Start-N-Charge) to get his shop rebuilt. My alt is dying, too, and Ford only sells remanufactured alternators now.

I think running a remote bridge rectifier and remote voltage regulator might do a lot to help longevity - the rectifier would be outside the case and might allow more air flow.

A big question is what is failing most often on the Cobra alternator? Is it burning the windings or frying the rectifier and/or regulator?

 

[cobra04972tx1]

I'm waiting for Jamie (Start-N-Charge) to get his shop rebuilt. My alt is dying, too, and Ford only sells remanufactured alternators now.

I think running a remote bridge rectifier and remote voltage regulator might do a lot to help longevity - the rectifier would be outside the case and might allow more air flow.

A big question is what is failing most often on the Cobra alternator? Is it burning the windings or frying the rectifier and/or regulator?

Mine has failed, and I'm getting it rebuit to either a 170 or 200 amp locally, would love to wait for the Stat-N-Charge, but who knows when he'll be back up and running. I'm going to ask the guy what exactly failed and will report back. Maybe then we can get an idea of the culprit.

 

[CobraBob]

Im thinking of running a cooling duct to my alt. In the cooler months my voltage is around 13.6-14.0. In the hotter months it is as low as 12.9. Everytime I test it with the VAT it passes and puts out 98-110 amps with full electrical load at 2000 rpms.

That is actually a great idea. I've heard a number of people express interest recently in trying it. If you do, post your test results. Heat is a big problem with these alternators so it would be expected that improving cooling would be a great benefit.

 

[Huachipato]

More amps = more windings= more heat & less airflow!

Is this true? Is 200A running at <80% Hotter than 110A running at 100%?

 

[lemosley01]

Not sure about heat generation, but if you are generating more power, the usual byproduct is more heat as well.

Ignoring that, however, what happens with more windings is it restricts the air flow in our already small alternator cases, and causes the heat to build up faster.

My thought is that if you measure both, they would both reach the same temperature because the cooling sucks due to placement, but the 200A would get hotter, faster.

Note: I have no evidence to support this, just a theory. And I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.