you guys realize this is like $80 worth of stuff from the coleman racing catalog, right?
Coil-over conversion. Which is better?
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If you think the Eibach stuff is 80 bucks worth of parts-then you have zero clues :loser: :bash:
hrmm let me guess a sleeve, spanner nut, torrington bearing, a spring, and two aluminum discs.
im not talking the caster/camber plate, and im not talking the strut. im just talking the parts to convert a car to coil-overs. that kit from maximum is hundreds of dollars for what is honestly under a hundred bucks worth of stuff.
educate yourself. you'll save money.
im not talking the caster/camber plate, and im not talking the strut. im just talking the parts to convert a car to coil-overs. that kit from maximum is hundreds of dollars for what is honestly under a hundred bucks worth of stuff.
educate yourself. you'll save money.
slo-l said:
Saving money.....
Well, like the retired engineer that charged his former employer $10,000 to fix one of his presses with just a tap of a hammer - it's the knowledge you are paying for.
I looked at Coleman's web page today - there are alot of pieces to choose from. How many parts would you have to buy and how much time would you waste trying to do it yourself? Will they provide the same guarantee as MM? I'm sure a competent shade tree mechanic could assemble a kit from Coleman parts if they knew what to order.
You get what you pay for....
<so I could measure my new MM parts and cross reference them to Coleman parts for a fee.....>
Well, like the retired engineer that charged his former employer $10,000 to fix one of his presses with just a tap of a hammer - it's the knowledge you are paying for.
I looked at Coleman's web page today - there are alot of pieces to choose from. How many parts would you have to buy and how much time would you waste trying to do it yourself? Will they provide the same guarantee as MM? I'm sure a competent shade tree mechanic could assemble a kit from Coleman parts if they knew what to order.
You get what you pay for....
<so I could measure my new MM parts and cross reference them to Coleman parts for a fee.....>
MidLifeC said:
i'd pay for that!! :-D
Jpjr said:
J/K
I couldn't charge for that - it would be unethical. Now if you wanted a closeup look - what you do with it is up to you.
ShelbyGuy, you forgot one of the most important items in the conversion: the springs!
Especially in the front, if too long they bind on the sleeve and destroy the threads and give a crappy ride. That's why I have MM's units all around on my vert.
Especially in the front, if too long they bind on the sleeve and destroy the threads and give a crappy ride. That's why I have MM's units all around on my vert.
The springs are generic HyperCoils. They can be purchased from many different sources. Again, the key is knowledge - MM has the experience of putting together the right combination.
I included the springs in that price.
99Blkcobravert said:
I did a 325/475 setup in my car, the car is plush but sticks very well - I have everything MM offers for the 03/04 cobra except the Kmember and Arms - all the bushings, tie rod ends, braces, subs.
My only complaint is I get a lot of noise transmitted into the cab through the trunk from the aluminum diff bushings. MM is coming out with urthane bushings for the rear diff and I'm going to switch when they come out and dynamat the whole trunk to get it to be quiet again. When I get the tubular K i'm probably going to setup to a 350/500lb setup as well - the car feels light and fluffy but sticks rediculously even with the stock F1s.
My only complaint is I get a lot of noise transmitted into the cab through the trunk from the aluminum diff bushings. MM is coming out with urthane bushings for the rear diff and I'm going to switch when they come out and dynamat the whole trunk to get it to be quiet again. When I get the tubular K i'm probably going to setup to a 350/500lb setup as well - the car feels light and fluffy but sticks rediculously even with the stock F1s.
What sort of ride are you looking at over just springs and shocks. I want better handling but as close to stock comfort as possible.
My 01 GT had just springs, they felt good at first but after 40k miles I had a harsh ride.
Maybe needed new shocks. Do coil overs stand up over time??
My 01 GT had just springs, they felt good at first but after 40k miles I had a harsh ride.
Maybe needed new shocks. Do coil overs stand up over time??
what about the kenny Brown. i have heard that they are pretty good
maliclipse said:
I think alot of people that have coil overs on this forum would say the MM's but I personally think that coil overs are awaste of money unless you track your car a lot (like once a month or more). Just get springs and call it a day.
I like the idea of the coil overs because I could get the spring rates where I want them, as well as the ride height. For me I would like about a 1/2 to 3/4" drop, with higher rates.
So what is the most economic way to do coil overs?
Are threaded shock bodies worth it, or do the sleeves do their job just fine?
So what is the most economic way to do coil overs?
Are threaded shock bodies worth it, or do the sleeves do their job just fine?
The most important part is the shock. If your not road racing this point is moot. MM is excellent, and I like their customer service a lot. However, for Coilovers I went with Griggs and Koni DA struts up front, and Koni A in the rear. Could not be happier.
jimwood said:
Exactly. The adjustability of the Koni's is what puts Griggs over the top in my opinion. If you have an 03 you can use those shocks and struts and do it on the cheap and have great results but Koni's are the best shocks money can buy IMO.
Yes, Griggs has had a few breakages but everyone makes it sound like it happens every other day. I have been running the full GR-40 kit for well over a year on Nebraska roads and LOVE it. Those that have broken Griggs parts were running the standard A arms for auto X and open track events, when they should have been running the severe duty arms. MM builds for the street and Griggs builds for the track. By that I mean MM over builds there K member and A arms (they weigh more) and recommends urethane for most bushings where as Griggs builds there K and A's as light as possible with out sacrificing strength and use delrin for everything. And now have the only SLA front suspension available!
Make your own decisions, just look at what your buying and decide what you want to accomplish. Good luck.
Looking at what everyone says about the MM's it seems that the latest census is that they are just overpriced generic parts. I just got done doing them and I must say that I love them. They are a bit pricey but all of the products are excellent. Everything goes together precisely and the customer service is outstanding. This is coming from someone that is, at best, an amateur at wrenching. You need to make the your own decisions. For me, I think this was the best way to go. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the coilover set ups. This sight probably lured me in to getting the MM's. I go in for a an alignment this week. We shall see about the ride.
Ok, I realize I am chiming in rather late here, but I too am interested in this and in the market for coilovers....BUT I want the "real deal" not a slip on sleeve setup! Has anyone seen ones...similar to the Eibach or Comp Engineering that the strut and shocks are actually threaded, not a slip on sleeve to conisist of a "TRUE" coil over setup that is available for the 03/04's???
I am not finding very much luck with what is available, and if I must, then I will resort to the MM's due to the positive feedback I am hearing on here and everywhere else...But wanted to see if anyone else has come across these at all!
I am not finding very much luck with what is available, and if I must, then I will resort to the MM's due to the positive feedback I am hearing on here and everywhere else...But wanted to see if anyone else has come across these at all!
It is not on a Mustang, buy I have QA1 adjustable coil overs on my Thunderbird, and they are SLICK. It takes me about 30 seconds to change the 12 click adjuster from street to strip setting.
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