As a matter of fact, I was just looking at the Mo-Kan Dragway race schedule today. The schedule shows the 1st race day of the year is February 1, weather permitting of course!! http://www.mokandragway.com/schedule/ Of course it's no small deal to race around Kansas City these days, the drive to Asbury, Missouri from my house is 150 miles each way!!! You'd think I would find some people to partner with and open a track myself!! So if the weather and my work schedule cooperates, yes I would like to go racing on Feb 1.
Cobra Jet intake going on stockish auto 5.0!!
- Thread starter goat-ee
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As a matter of fact, I was just looking at the Mo-Kan Dragway race schedule today. The schedule shows the 1st race day of the year is February 1, weather permitting of course!! http://www.mokandragway.com/schedule/ Of course it's no small deal to race around Kansas City these days, the drive to Asbury, Missouri from my house is 150 miles each way!!! You'd think I would find some people to partner with and open a track myself!! So if the weather and my work schedule cooperates, yes I would like to go racing on Feb 1.
Could a gt500 aftermarket tb work? Like the bbk or accufab ? Bbk is much much cheaper. Just curious lol. So, do you think the cj work was worth it?
I also worry about the oil pump gears revving the car out to over 7500 often. Wonder what that would cost to have installed.
I also worry about the oil pump gears revving the car out to over 7500 often. Wonder what that would cost to have installed.
Your tuner will determine if those would work. I don't think they will as you have to repin the connector for the Mono Blade to work. As far as I have seen, only the 65mm Twin and Mono Blade have been tuned for.
I have my car revving to I believe 7750 rpms, but I don't redline it often. I really think I could easily lower the shiftpoint to 7300-7400 and never miss a thing on the street while daily driving (yes I really do daily the car in Missouri winters on Blizzaks!!). Having said that, the car is STILL pulling at the current 7750rpm's, so at the track it's the way to go.
I have been a HUGE advocate of this swap. I shake my head and wonder how it's possible the rest of the world thinks its just a glorified Boss intake?!?! On my auto car, 1/2 throttle is faster than most (non Mustang) cars, even if I don't see over 4k rpm.
I was thinking about it the other day when I was driving my son's 96 Cobra convertible...my CJ 5.0 has as much of a faster trap speed in the 1/4 mile, as his car does over the average Honda Accord. That is amazing, because in 96 that car ran pretty damn strong. If you look at my signature, his car (which was my car) was barely quicker and faster with a Hellion 62mm turbo @ 10psi.
If you do the swap don't 1/2 a$$ it and cheap out on the TB and CAI, and have 01bluesnake clean up the intake. I mean your basically trying to max out your N/A setup, so why jack around and not do it right?
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It's actually buy Drew's cai over rev auto. It's actually cheaper to. I just can't figure out if it's the way I want to go. I'd take it to jms to do the install. They did this swap in a magazine.
I would do a FRPP over the drews CAI
I had a rev auto CAI on my auto and saw gains but I had cams and shifted at 7,810
I had a rev auto CAI on my auto and saw gains but I had cams and shifted at 7,810
You can do any of those tb but your tuner will likely prefer the frpp ones.
I ran stock op gears for a year spinning mine to 7,810 shifts and occasionally seeing 8,000rpm and not one issue. N/A cars don't need the op gears IMO
My car made 476rwhp thru auto on MAP tune with CJ and rev auto and twin 65mm and stg3 cams
Hmm, which will see better gains twin or single oval? How important are long tubes and OR mid pipe with the cj?
I saw no real gains with a monoblade over a twin 65mm as the twin flows insane air already and directs it down both sides around the center stud in the plenum behind the t-body. I would say Longtubes are a must but would stay away from straight 1 7/8" and lean towards a stepped 1 3/4" primary. My car went [email protected] in +1200 da at near full weight premium gt auto on conservative timing and 93 octane pump @ 476rwhp 392rwtq
Got Ya. Once you do everything and have it installed, for another 2k could have an paxton kit. Just a lot to swallow at once.
Exactly
If I had it to do over I would have never messed with the n/a stuff.
My car is now going turbo on a build sleeved motor and a stock intake to boot
I think I'll keep my eyes open for a used kit. Thanks.
Going all out NA is not easy or cheap. It just depends on what you want really. If you want an easy 500whp, throw a Paxton or TVS on there. It wouldn't break a sweat at 500, then you could just crank it up when you wanted more. I personally like the idea of an NA motor, but it's not for everyone.
I like that idea as well. I'd hate to do the cj set up and still not be happy. If I could have a high 118s trap car to low 20's I'd be content. That would do some damage on folks. Having with cammed ls cars and the new c7 and the older gt500 would be fine. Would this set up get me there?
CJ, SCJ throttle body, long tubes, off road mid pipe, and a good tune should get you right at 450whp on a dyno jet through an MT82. That should put you above 118 with the right gears. I've been out of the drag racing math game for a while, what's 118MPH on these cars? Mid-11s area?
I out ran mildly modded C7 vette's and cammed LSx Camaros on my CJ setup and I ran with my buddies pulley/tune/exhaust 2011 GT500
However with the $$$ invested it wasn't worth it to only see low 11's
For $1,000 more I could have ran high 9's on a Paxton/Vortech setup.
N/A is fun for a little while.
Unless you wanna get serious with weight reduction or nitrous then the CJ swap just isn't worth it.
https://vimeo.com/116681863
However with the $$$ invested it wasn't worth it to only see low 11's
For $1,000 more I could have ran high 9's on a Paxton/Vortech setup.
N/A is fun for a little while.
Unless you wanna get serious with weight reduction or nitrous then the CJ swap just isn't worth it.
https://vimeo.com/116681863
I have the auto. Not even concerned about dyno numbers. Just how it performs on the street and the strip once a year.
Stick with your 3.15's then
3.31's are better but not really even enough to be worthwhile to change.
Get a converter before anything else!
It is a way bigger gain than the CJ intake
OK, what would you go with on a bolt on car? 3c? Or 4c
Agreed 100%. Your best bang for the buck in an auto is the converter.
I'm not concerned about dyno numbers either, it's just a way to try to quantify your gains.
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