CJ intake +a6+first couple of passes

T

trevnut

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nordy racer said:
I want the warm temps to heat up the track, but nice air to make power.
Click to expand...

Exactly!!





BTW goat-ee....


Track Elevation: 0 feet above sea level

Air Temperature: 75 degrees F

Barometric Pressure: 29.0 inches Hg

Relative Humidty: 80 %


Density Altitude: 2401 feet
Relative Density: 93.16 %


compare that to this


Track Elevation: 0 feet above sea level

Air Temperature: 85 degrees F

Barometric Pressure: 30.0 inches Hg

Relative Humidty: 35 %


Density Altitude: 1755 feet
Relative Density: 94.97 %


Crap, DA went down in warmer weather too...... what happened? This calc is @ drag times . com btw

You know as well as i do, that in Oklahoma we dont get the mine shaft air they do other places. I have gone faster with my car in warmer air quite a few times. It depends on the whole weather package though, not just the temp. I was referring too getting a lil more heat in the track with the warmer temps.
 
G

goat-ee

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trevnut said:
Not bad at all. Should run really good once it warms up a lil bit. Is the rpm still a lil low in 4th?
Click to expand...

trevnut said:
So your saying a car won't run faster in warmer air? Explain how this is NOT possible at all. Better have some serious data to back this up. I'll tell you it is 100% possible that the car can go faster in warmer air. Keep in mind i said warmer... not hot.
Click to expand...

trevnut said:
Exactly!!


BTW goat-ee....


Track Elevation: 0 feet above sea level

Air Temperature: 75 degrees F

Barometric Pressure: 29.0 inches Hg

Relative Humidty: 80 %


Density Altitude: 2401 feet
Relative Density: 93.16 %


compare that to this


Track Elevation: 0 feet above sea level

Air Temperature: 85 degrees F

Barometric Pressure: 30.0 inches Hg

Relative Humidty: 35 %


Density Altitude: 1755 feet
Relative Density: 94.97 %


Crap, DA went down in warmer weather too...... what happened? This calc is @ drag times . com btw

You know as well as i do, that in Oklahoma we dont get the mine shaft air they do other places. I have gone faster with my car in warmer air quite a few times. It depends on the whole weather package though, not just the temp. I was referring too getting a lil more heat in the track with the warmer temps.
Click to expand...

I'm already bored, but ONE more time. With ALL else being equal, a engine will ALWAYS make more power with a lower air inlet temperature. In your example you changed the temperature AND the barometric pressure, and not by a little either, 1" of barometric pressure is a huge difference. :poke:

Your trying to change your original point to fit reality. Of course you can change other parameters and get a better DA with a higher temp. But your statement, not once, but twice was that warmer temperatures would help Nordy run better. This by itself is NOT TRUE at all. If he runs in the exact same conditions and altitude with no other changes except temperature being higher he will run slower. :bored:
 
Last edited:
JohnRichard

JohnRichard

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dennisn said:
Yup, Shifts at 7500 plus. Did log a few passes. Tuner says everything looks good from tune aspect.

I did adjust shift to shift earlier (7000 rpm). Which netted me the better et,s.

Think I really need more passes with more data.
Click to expand...

Curious to see what the dyno sheet looks like with this being the result,.
Do you have one to post?
 
Riptide

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-2000 lol I wish. We're usually in the 6000-8000' range here while the track is open. An E85 bolt on tuned 5.0 would never be in the 11s.
 
K

KrisR

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nordy racer said:
some videos from Friday.. still learning the 5c converter and the new M&H tires.. my old 3c loved being up on the stall..

DIALDIN Cobra Jet Testing - YouTube
Click to expand...
I have a 5C also, and mine seems to like being flashed from just off idle (maybe 1000rpm, just enough to load the drivetrain). My 1.59 60-foot (+1200 DA, 3.15 gear, 26in tire) came from flashing it. I tried stalling it up on the brakes and it wouldn't go better than a 1.62-1.63 on the same day. I have only made a few passes with this converter so I am still experimenting.
 
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nordy racer

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KrisR said:
I have a 5C also, and mine seems to like being flashed from just off idle (maybe 1000rpm, just enough to load the drivetrain). My 1.59 60-foot (+1200 DA, 3.15 gear, 26in tire) came from flashing it. I tried stalling it up on the brakes and it wouldn't go better than a 1.62-1.63 on the same day. I have only made a few passes with this converter so I am still experimenting.
Click to expand...

in one of the runs the car pulled a 1.54 60ft on a high rev launch.. next time out we are changing up some things to work it out.. one is launching lower in RPM.. yea these converters are way different then what I'm use to from my GN..
 
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KrisR

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Yes. I had an '86 GN about 10 years ago as well as a rosewood '86 turbo-T. Those cars needed as much stall/launch rpm as possible because of the need to make as much boost as possible before launch. These cars obviously don't need that so they behave differently.
 
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dennisn

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cf71d73e-c04c-4679-8989-7a081bf90168_zps61616df5.jpg
http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums...e-c04c-4679-8989-7a081bf90168_zps61616df5.jpg

Not sure if this will work but I'll try.

Link to dyno sheet this is with the cj intake.
 
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dennisn

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When I asked him why he stopped the pull at 7000 said it hp dropped so no point in going any further. I do want to have it run again and pulled to at least 7500. It did make more power on 2 later pulls. 397 then 403 on the last pull. Don't have those sheets though.
 
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nordy racer

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dennisn said:
When I asked him why he stopped the pull at 7000 said it hp dropped so no point in going any further. I do want to have it run again and pulled to at least 7500. It did make more power on 2 later pulls. 397 then 403 on the last pull. Don't have those sheets though.
Click to expand...

what gears do you have in your 13?
 

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