Car lowered and aligned, how are these alignment specs?
- Thread starter K-Dubb
- Start date
Getting mine done as we speak!
OP, your numbers for the front end seem to vary a good bit side-to-side. I'd call up Maximum Motorsports and ask them what they would consider to be ideal specs for a lowered street car.
Also, do you have C/C plates on your car? They can make a big difference in being able to get the alignment dialed in just right.
Also, do you have C/C plates on your car? They can make a big difference in being able to get the alignment dialed in just right.
It baffles me that alignment mechanics would send it out with those specs... I'd bring it back!! How could that place be happy with -1.4 camber on one side and -.6 the other??
If that's all they could manage with factory hardware make the other side -.6 too ??
In the front you wanna shoot for -1 degree of camber and 4.5-5.0 degrees of Positive caster with factory toe, you'll need CC plates to achieve that though..
If that's all they could manage with factory hardware make the other side -.6 too ??
In the front you wanna shoot for -1 degree of camber and 4.5-5.0 degrees of Positive caster with factory toe, you'll need CC plates to achieve that though..
Last edited:
I do not have C/C plates.
So you are saying they could have done better than this? It was basically a shop that took it to another shop for the alignment. I did not actually get to talk with the alignment shop, but I will if I need to.
I was under the impression that they could not adjust the c/c without plates.
So you are saying they could have done better than this? It was basically a shop that took it to another shop for the alignment. I did not actually get to talk with the alignment shop, but I will if I need to.
I was under the impression that they could not adjust the c/c without plates.
You want the camber to be pretty even on both sides and you have a large difference,
-1.4 degrees will cause uneven tire wear on a daily driver!
-1.4 degrees will cause uneven tire wear on a daily driver!
Here are mine as of alignment yesterday....
LF
Toe: 0.13
Caster: 4.2
Camber: -1.0
RF
Toe: 0.14
Caster: 3.5
Camber: -1.2
LR
Toe: 0.09
Camber: -0.8
RR
Toe: 0.08
Camber: -1.5
No C/C plates, seems like the front looks ok , the rear camber is off a hair more than the other. Not sure how much this will affect tires. input?
LF
Toe: 0.13
Caster: 4.2
Camber: -1.0
RF
Toe: 0.14
Caster: 3.5
Camber: -1.2
LR
Toe: 0.09
Camber: -0.8
RR
Toe: 0.08
Camber: -1.5
No C/C plates, seems like the front looks ok , the rear camber is off a hair more than the other. Not sure how much this will affect tires. input?
Last edited:
The stock plates do have a small adjustment, the rivets just need to be drilled out. It might be enough to get both side even.
The rear is off more then a hair, it's almost double the camber.
You understood what I was implying.
This is what I used for the front, it`s from MM. I used the factory settings for the rear. I`m running MM`s cc plates btw.
^^ Thanks you for that !
I got the best results with the specs from friends and the Max Motorsports instructions
4.5 degrees positive Caster
-1 degree negative Camber
4.5 degrees positive Caster
-1 degree negative Camber
Ideally you want as much positive caster as you can dial in for a performance car. It will make steering a bit tougher, but will be tons more stable at high speeds, and much more planted on hard corners, due to the camber gain that is a by-product of increased caster. I have a Fastrax alignment gauge, so I tweak mine often to experiment with different combos. I absolutely love the feel of it now with 7 deg. of caster, -1 deg. of camber, and 1/16" total toe in. I have a solid jointed steering shaft, and MM rack bushings, so the road feel is superb. I used to run about 5.5 deg. caster on my '65 Cobra but that was with a 15:1 manual rack, so that was about the "comfortable" limit on that one.
Users who are viewing this thread
