Broke a rod. Does this look salvageable?

[0mineralgrey3]

Looks Like L&M is going to be building me a new motor. Just an FYI after exchanging pics with him and a few other engine builders, all of them that do this sort of thing for a living, agreed that the block is 100% salvageable. I have weighed the cost options of the sleeving and repairing and it's what and what. Repaired and sleeved might save me a few hundred bucks. I can have a built motor to my door in a few weeks capable of 1500 rwhp which is more than i'll push. I'm gonna put cams back in, switch to e85, and sell my 3.4 to go to a 4.0 LC kenne bell.

 

[Weather Man]

Good luck to you, it will be a beast!

 

[sleek98]

Talk about stepping up your game. Shooting for 8s now with the auto?

 

[COOL COBRA]

I'd never be able to flog the old block without always being scared of it.

 

[0mineralgrey3]

Car should go 8.80 and then it's for sale. Factory K member, no weight removed, full interior, nav, all the creature comforts still in the car.

 

[JimIII@jdm]

Block is toast, if you need one we have them in stock and can even assemble into a shortblock or longblock for you. Sorry about your loss, RIP stock rods.

JimIII
732-780-0770
www.TeamJDM.com

 

[dale.baker]

I have had my JDM engine for one year now. Not one single issue with their build or dyno tune. Last week I drove the car 700 miles to my new residence in SC and averaged over 18.5MPG. Not bad for a thousand horsepower and 4:11 gears. Motor, Transmission currently have about 2500 miles on them. JDM is great to work with and you get a year warranty on non detonation generated failures. I highly recommend them for their expertise is second to none.

 

[biminiLX]

I'd be real hesitant to reuse that block, but it sounds like you're saying the engine builder says you can.
I'd take a hard look at the cost analysis of doing that verses a new block.
FYI, when talking to MMR at PRI last year, they felt the '11-12 aluminum block was the best starting point as it's cheaper and doesn't have oil squirters (more material?).
As you're drag racing, a standard bore 5.4 aluminum block would save you some coin and still do what you want as far as street/strip.
I agree a big twin screw with a 6R80 can easily be a 8s ride with street comfort. The 6R does have its limits and I think as a bottom 9s trans it'll last a long time. Once you start regularly going 8s, there is less proven reliability but they can still hold. We drive my friends '11 GT to the track with a mild Coyote/TVS combo and run 9.20s with a 100% stock 6R.
I'd love to see that done with our Shelbys, I know it's possible.
Good luck.
-J

 

[JimIII@jdm]

I only have one or two more of these left at this price!

http://www.teamjdm.com/5-8l-4v-gt500-aluminum-shortblock-1200-hp-2013-2014-gt500/

 

[E55rocket]

That's pretty much what my block looked like after the same thing happened. I was told it could be fixed but my power goals are 1300+ with a 4.5 whipple so I went for a new 5.8 sleeved block.

 

[JimIII@jdm]

We see a tremendous amount of crank flex in the 5.4L and especially the 5.8L motors at higher power levels. My suggestion is any one pushing past 1200 HP consider a billet crank. The spray bore liners on the factory 5.8L block are very strong and durable. Sleeves will make it stronger, but not all you need to support some of these big numbers being thrown around.

 

[Catmonkey]

We see a tremendous amount of crank flex in the 5.4L and especially the 5.8L motors at higher power levels. My suggestion is any one pushing past 1200 HP consider a billet crank.

Is the flex a result of the higher torque ouput or the additional rpm needed to reach those higher numbers?

 

[JimIII@jdm]

Is the flex a result of the higher torque ouput or the additional rpm needed to reach those higher numbers?

Both and the blower drive system puts a lot of stress on the front of the crank. People are using monster size superchargers spinning them at insane RPM's to make 1XXX+ HP.

 

[E55rocket]

Exactly. I went with a Bryant billet crank for that reason.

 

[biminiLX]

Both and the blower drive system puts a lot of stress on the front of the crank. People are using monster size superchargers spinning them at insane RPM's to make 1XXX+ HP.

Agreed.
I'd point to blower #1, RPM #2 and #3 power.
Turbo guys won't have the crank issues like us blower guys, yet can make more power, so that blower stress on the crank snout is a major factor.
I'll be happy with my 850rwhp and dual keyed stock crank
-J

 

[Turbo98GT]

Both and the blower drive system puts a lot of stress on the front of the crank. People are using monster size superchargers spinning them at insane RPM's to make 1XXX+ HP.

I suspect the big Whipple and high rpm as to why these rods shit out. It's hard to compare a long stroke 5.8 to a short stroke 4.6. I think these rods put up with a lot of stress and that's impressive.