Well 9.62 was the breaking point apparently. At the cost of a new bare block does repair and sleeving look like an option. What differences besides weight and oil squirters are there between iron and aluminum blocks.
Broke a rod. Does this look salvageable?
- Thread starter 0mineralgrey3
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No way, that block has been structurally compromised, time for a new block.
would make a neat coffee table.
Are you taking the piss with the salvageable question?
interested in the detail if you care to share. Looks like an upper and lower with cams on e85 or race fuel? I keep wanting to go this route but I keep reading threads like this.
No I'm not taking a piss with the question. I'll let you know what the machine shop says today. It looks bad but somehow it missed almost every structural area. It's aluminum. I've seen some amazing work done to heads that were beaten to hell from broken valves.
I didn't have cams anymore. 3.4 whipple 25 lbs of boost, ms109 fuel and all supporting mods. I also have a 6r80 swap in the car. Car just overpowered the shit rods.
Shit rods huh? They went designed to put up with 25lbs of boost. You missed one major supporting mod(or should i say 8 lol).
I didn't miss shit. Ford put Manley rods in the terminator models and shit rods in a 70k premium mustang. I asked a simple question. let's try to stay on topic.
No need to get your panties in a bunch. Just pointing out you chose to run an aggressive setup knowing the risks and it came apart.
For the block I would recommend against reusing it. Go aluminum if budget allows. I would also suggest an upgraded rod/piston combo to support your other mods.
There could be microcracking and you wouldn't find them until back together making power. That would be a very expensive redo. I thought the stock wrist pins were only good until around 800-850.
I would not risk using the same block as well. I don't know what hp you were putting down but 25 psi is a bit much for the stock lower. This is exactly why I'm having new rods and pistons put in, I'm only at 15 psi and 730 to the wheels but wanting cams a trying to get to 800hp so I'll rebuild before hand. Now with that being said there is still no guarantee that the engine will hold but the odds are better. Supposedly the block with the spray bore will handle up to 1100 whp.
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That might be salvageable....if you plan on running 4psi after the rebuild.
Forget it, it's toast.
Forget it, it's toast.
Block is toast. Not worth the time and money to try and repair.
As stated above, blocks toast.
That's what I'd do with it.
Give you $50 for it.
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