#@($@! bodyroll!!!!! how to stop this?

[Jimmysidecarr]

No body roll does not equal great handling. Maybe it looks cool, and if it handles like its on rails then you're going too slow. These pics Ive linked are from Hallet on Kumho V710s, track record is a 1:26. I was running a street alignment and managed a 1:34.117 with my full interior car. Our gutted race car with a very aggressive alignment ran a 1:30.xxx
My car has H&R Race springs, Bilstein HDs, MM 4 pt K member brace, fl subframes, MM subframe bushings, and aluminum diff mounts. It has no push in the corners, Ive had it understeer on me a handful of times, maybe it's my driving style but the car is very well balanced and very forgiving. In the corners it looks like Ive got H&R SS springs.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/kjenk...=&.done=http://photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

OMG!!! I wish I lived closer to Hallet!!!
Another great post!!!

Beau.. Have you open tracked your car yet???
It is incredible fun and also a great way to see how your car and your driving compare to other cars...

That day at MSR Houston ... with body roll out the wazoo, street alignment(rivets still in stock camber plates), Sumitomo cheapo tires(HZRII)...
I passed multiple Cobras(99s, 01s, 04s,Y2K-Rs) a C4 ZO6, and older gen Viper, Cobra kit car roadsters, a new gen M3, and even a C6 ZO6!!!(brand new owner babying it)...

It's best not to go by just body roll and feel.... although it should feel predictable, and should inspire confidence...

Get it to a track and maybe have an instructor drive it... they can be great help with diagnosing handling issues.

At this point I am still amazed at how well Ford prepared these cars for this application!!! :bowdown: epper: :rockon:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

sorry sorry sorry sorry
i forgot to put in that i have full length subframes in there, no racket or anything, and am running 275 nittos all around on 03 cobra wheels

Are those Nitto RIIs??? or regular Nittos(555)???

 

[UCBeau]

Just a thought, but how much of this is in your head? I'm not being a smart ass either.

i did think about that, but if you drove my car i bet you'd say the same thing as me

 

[UCBeau]

Are those Nitto RIIs??? or regular Nittos(555)???

Nitto 555's, not RII's

OMG!!! I wish I lived closer to Hallet!!!
Another great post!!!

Beau.. Have you open tracked your car yet???
It is incredible fun and also a great way to see how your car and your driving compare to other cars...

That day at MSR Houston ... with body roll out the wazoo, street alignment(rivets still in stock camber plates), Sumitomo cheapo tires(HZRII)...
I passed multiple Cobras(99s, 01s, 04s,Y2K-Rs) a C4 ZO6, and older gen Viper, Cobra kit car roadsters, a new gen M3, and even a C6 ZO6!!!(brand new owner babying it)...

It's best not to go by just body roll and feel.... although it should feel predictable, and should inspire confidence...

Get it to a track and maybe have an instructor drive it... they can be great help with diagnosing handling issues.

At this point I am still amazed at how well Ford prepared these cars for this application!!! :bowdown: epper: :rockon:

i haven't open tracked it yet, but i definetly plan to, thats what i'm setting it up for, a street driven, street legal, open track car
my brother just finished the Skip Barber race school at Laguna Seca so i was thinkign of having him drive my car around and see if he can't suggest anything to do. he's a BMW guy though

 

[UCBeau]

No body roll does not equal great handling. Maybe it looks cool, and if it handles like its on rails then you're going too slow. These pics Ive linked are from Hallet on Kumho V710s, track record is a 1:26. I was running a street alignment and managed a 1:34.117 with my full interior car. Our gutted race car with a very aggressive alignment ran a 1:30.xxx
My car has H&R Race springs, Bilstein HDs, MM 4 pt K member brace, fl subframes, MM subframe bushings, and aluminum diff mounts. It has no push in the corners, Ive had it understeer on me a handful of times, maybe it's my driving style but the car is very well balanced and very forgiving. In the corners it looks like Ive got H&R SS springs.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/kjenk...=&.done=http://photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

i'm not too keen on replacing the springs, so i'd like to work around them if at all possible, but that other stuff you said you had sounds interesting. i do have some Delrin IRS bushings and Differential bushings coming as well. however, i'm more concerned with the fact that i already have modded the suspension up a fair amount and it still rolls like a boat. thanks for your input though! i appreciate all the suggestions

 

[REX-RACER]

Those of you that suggest the X2 ball joints, how hard are they to install? I've got most of the suspension stuff that has been mentioned in this post waiting to go on the car this spring like sfc's, H&R Race springs, '03 Bilstiens, CC plates, anti-roll bars, urethane bushings, etc. Just wondering if I should throw these ball joints into the mix?

 

[Torch10th]

I've heard great things about the x2 balljoints. You don't have to go steeda I'm sure griggsa and MM have a tall ball joint as well.

Ball joints for that matter aren't necessarily the easiest item to replace. You've got to seperate the ball joint from it's perch in the lower control arm. It's pressed in so you can imagine how tough it is to remove. Then of course you've got to press in the new ball joint.

 

[99COBRA2881]

i'm not too keen on replacing the springs, so i'd like to work around them if at all possible, but that other stuff you said you had sounds interesting. i do have some Delrin IRS bushings and Differential bushings coming as well. however, i'm more concerned with the fact that i already have modded the suspension up a fair amount and it still rolls like a boat. thanks for your input though! i appreciate all the suggestions

Dont worry, you dont have to replace the springs. I searched back and found this thread, RidRed4v was in the same situation as you. Here's the link, lots of great info in here. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228499

MM goes under a different way of thinking when it comes to the taller Ford balljoints, they dont use them. www.maximummotorsports.com Give them a call and ask what they recommend.

 

[Torch10th]

Yes MM likes you to use modified geometry k-members. That's quite a bit more expensive and time consuming than the ball joints though. For somebody that sees a lot of track time and does some racing the K-member with offset geometry paired with a proper set of control arms and coil-overs will be the best setup. For somebody just looking for improved corneringw ith a lowered car, the tall ball joints work fine IMHO.

 

[01yellercobra]

i did think about that, but if you drove my car i bet you'd say the same thing as me

You could take mine for a spin. Then your's will feel like it's on rails.

 

[UCBeau]

Dont worry, you dont have to replace the springs. I searched back and found this thread, RidRed4v was in the same situation as you. Here's the link, lots of great info in here. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228499

MM goes under a different way of thinking when it comes to the taller Ford balljoints, they dont use them. www.maximummotorsports.com Give them a call and ask what they recommend.

Well from what I just read, MM prefers the K member be changed out..and since I will eventually need to do that anyways, perhaps I'll just live with this for the time being. I'm hesitant to disagree with them (MM) because so far they've definetly put me on the right track.

 

[UCBeau]

You could take mine for a spin. Then your's will feel like it's on rails.

haha thats true, but i have to deal with mine on a more constant basis

 

[SnkBtn99]

I guess I will have to go back and look at all my RC pics for body roll. I have HR Race and Bilsteins. Very little if any body roll ...No SFCs or cage ....yet ...

 

[SnkBtn99]

OK ..tell me what you think on my roll
I am the '99 behind the 2 "R"s. these corners are at Autobahn. The top corner is coming off a lonnng straight away coming into a 120+ degree corner.

Here's one going the other way

 

[svt32v99]

i dont know if nitto 555's have a softer sidewall than the stock gatorbacks but thats definetly possible..however, it was pretty bad before, if i remember correctly

I had Nitto Drags on my car and I swear those had awesome stiff sidewall charachteristics (sp? hate that word) when the pressure was around 37 psi. I think that might be your problem. I just have the EiBach ProKit on my 99 and I don't have any body roll. Something is wrong with your car...

 

[UCBeau]

OK ..tell me what you think on my roll
I am the '99 behind the 2 "R"s. these corners are at Autobahn. The top corner is coming off a lonnng straight away coming into a 120+ degree corner.

your roll *looks* far less than mine..then again, i haven't witnessed mine from the outside..just trying to describe what i am feeling from the inside...when i whip the wheel back and forth, it wallows and the body feels like it rolls like crazy. thats what is so aggravating to me.

 

[REX-RACER]

your roll *looks* far less than mine..then again, i haven't witnessed mine from the outside..just trying to describe what i am feeling from the inside...when i whip the wheel back and forth, it wallows and the body feels like it rolls like crazy. thats what is so aggravating to me.

Ever think it could be just you moving back and forth in the seat? How much do you weigh? Are you a large framed person? The side bolstering is not the best on the stock seats. Perhaps an after market seat might help keep you planted better and relieve some of this "wallowong" you're feeling?

Just a thought . . .

 

[VenomousSVT]

what size front tires do you have?

My old 96 gt used to handle really well with 255/40-17's all the wat around on real 95r's. I wanted 275's on the rear of the car and for some reason put them on the front too. after this my car felt like it was a truck!!!! after that set of rears wore out I bout some more 255/40's for the front and it cured the problem once again.

 

[SnkBtn99]

The seat comment is a very good point .... I know after a couple of days on the track my left knee hurts like shit because I am shoving it through the door for extra support .... Having been in cars that have harnesses, it feels much better because you do not have to "worry" about the sliding around in the seat.

 

[BreBar21]

I've heard great things about the x2 balljoints. You don't have to go steeda I'm sure griggsa and MM have a tall ball joint as well.

Ball joints for that matter aren't necessarily the easiest item to replace. You've got to seperate the ball joint from it's perch in the lower control arm. It's pressed in so you can imagine how tough it is to remove. Then of course you've got to press in the new ball joint.

Those of you that suggest the X2 ball joints, how hard are they to install? I've got most of the suspension stuff that has been mentioned in this post waiting to go on the car this spring like sfc's, H&R Race springs, '03 Bilstiens, CC plates, anti-roll bars, urethane bushings, etc. Just wondering if I should throw these ball joints into the mix?

AFAIK, Steeda is the only one who makes the longer ball joint. I know MM does not, but I do not know about Griggs. IMO, it's about the only thing worthwhile Steeda produces. I believe you can buy the ball joint through Ford Racing as a Steeda part just rebadged under the FR name.

As for installation, it is pretty straightforward. The very best thing you can do is get the ball joint press tool. It's basically a huge c-clamp with a bunch of different fittings. One of my mechanic buddies has one and we had my old joints out in about 30 secs and the new ones in the 30 secs. The best part is that you can do it with the A-arm in the car. I have heard that you can rent this tool from Autozone, but it is likely that there is only one Autozone in your town that has it. You will need an impact gun to get the old ball joints off and new ones on though.

A couple other things to consider, you will need a bumpsteer kit once you install the ball joints. Without one, the angle of the tie rod and the angle of the A-arm will be WAY off and your car is going to handle like shit. Again, this is a failry simple install.

You will also need an alignment BAD when it is all done.

Something that a lot of people simply forget to replace are the swaybar endlinks. When you lower the car, the stock endlinks push the swaybar up past parallel which is not good. Spend the $15 and buy the shorter endlinks from MM and the swaybar bushings if you would like. Believe me, it will make a difference.

You could also consider getting center drilled alumnum rack bushings from MM. They are designed for use with the stock K and will tighten things up nicely.