Wait, pink was an option? If so I vote for that.
Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
- Thread starter Black Gold 380R
- Start date
Thank you Bob! Was wondering if you were going to chime in on this. I know you feel it's my car and I should do what I want, as your last sentence indicates LOL.
When I look at that red car above I just see way to much red. Another thing to consider is that red car has a chrome bumper. Remember my bumper is body color. So, that's even MORE red LOL.
If I go with my gut and what is appealing to me (as I walk by the car LOL) the hood will be gloss black.
As mentioned above I can always change it a few years from now if I get bored with it or if I want to change the design layout.
Thanks for giving me your point of view brother. Much respect!
LOL, and I just posted much respect to you. Damn..... LMAO!!!
Hello Everyone,
Well, my step son came to visit this evening, so I asked him to help me remove the hood. I need to get ready to start the body work process this weekend.
The underside of this hood is horrible and would never pass my standards for this build. My brother bought it and was more worried about price than finish. No big deal. It's just time and sanding right? LMAO!
Man, I still can get over how cool these hinges are.
I like shinny things LOL.
I just mocked the shock up. I used shims between the body and hinge to get these to line up, but on the manufactures web site they actually have spacer plates. So, I bought a set of polished spacers today and will install them once they arrive. So, this all needs to be disassembled.
Here is the under side of the hood. Completely unacceptable.
Why couldn't the whole thing be like the outer edge area ???
Close up of the rear of the cowl area. This is going to take some time to get right.
Center area. Man, they had ZERO intentions of making this straight/smooth at the manufactures plant.
The edge next to the frame. They got the frame right at least LOL.
Close up of the frame edge and underside of hood. I'll need to sand the glue a little so the body filler can stick.
I called my body shop friend and he said to sand the area with 80 grit and then body work it with thin layers. Just enough to get a flat/smooth surface. He said he would charge me $350 to do it. I'm almost tempted just to avoid this headache LOL. But, then I couldn't say "I did it." LOL
Here are some impact chips from the last time I had the hood on the car. Guess I need to install some impact rubber pieces to keep the hood from touching/rubbing body panels up front. Or see if I can raise it a tad, but the last time the hood was on the car it was already level with the fenders. So, I'll see how to handle this.
Got some work to do. Just when I thought I was done, this car pulls me back in LMAO!!!
Well, my step son came to visit this evening, so I asked him to help me remove the hood. I need to get ready to start the body work process this weekend.
The underside of this hood is horrible and would never pass my standards for this build. My brother bought it and was more worried about price than finish. No big deal. It's just time and sanding right? LMAO!
Man, I still can get over how cool these hinges are.
I like shinny things LOL.I just mocked the shock up. I used shims between the body and hinge to get these to line up, but on the manufactures web site they actually have spacer plates. So, I bought a set of polished spacers today and will install them once they arrive. So, this all needs to be disassembled.
Here is the under side of the hood. Completely unacceptable.
Why couldn't the whole thing be like the outer edge area ???
Close up of the rear of the cowl area. This is going to take some time to get right.
Center area. Man, they had ZERO intentions of making this straight/smooth at the manufactures plant
.The edge next to the frame. They got the frame right at least LOL.
Close up of the frame edge and underside of hood. I'll need to sand the glue a little so the body filler can stick.
I called my body shop friend and he said to sand the area with 80 grit and then body work it with thin layers. Just enough to get a flat/smooth surface. He said he would charge me $350 to do it. I'm almost tempted just to avoid this headache LOL. But, then I couldn't say "I did it." LOL
Here are some impact chips from the last time I had the hood on the car. Guess I need to install some impact rubber pieces to keep the hood from touching/rubbing body panels up front. Or see if I can raise it a tad, but the last time the hood was on the car it was already level with the fenders. So, I'll see how to handle this.
Got some work to do. Just when I thought I was done, this car pulls me back in LMAO!!!
You definitely have a few challengers to conquer with that hood. The upside (trying to be positive) is that you'll gain some experience doing the work yourself and use some ingenuity to solve the metal to metal rubbing.
By the way, when you mentioned that your friend gave you advice on fixing some of the hood issues, I'm sure you've had other advice throughout. So, have you documented all of that advice? Because you don't do this for a living where you'd be applying what you've learned every day, documenting it will be invaluable if and when you do some similar restoration work.
By the way, when you mentioned that your friend gave you advice on fixing some of the hood issues, I'm sure you've had other advice throughout. So, have you documented all of that advice? Because you don't do this for a living where you'd be applying what you've learned every day, documenting it will be invaluable if and when you do some similar restoration work.
Why yes, shiny things are absolutely wonderful! Whether they be cars or women or bikes
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Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Thank you Bob! Well, after thinking about it I felt I didn't have enough experience to work with fiberglass. Also, the area under the hood is a significant size that needs to be body worked. So, when sanding it the residue will make a pretty significant mess and I don't want it getting in my interior or other areas of the car.
So, I took my hood to my buddies body shop today and he will work it and make it flat and smooth like I want it. This will free me up to work on things like the radiator cover and other, smaller items, in my garage this weekend. Then when I get my hood back I can prime it, paint it and then clear coat it. Also, I can explore some designs, while the hood is in primer, to see if I can come up with anything that will look good with just the cowl in black.
To answer your question I have not kept or documented advice I have been given. Most of the advice I have been given, the person giving the advice did the work (i.e. the guy who welded for me and my painter friend who painted my engine bay for me). Lastly, for anything else I normally use YouTube. So, I guess you could consider YouTube as my documentation LOL.
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LOL, man you got that right Geoff! I think we like those things because they are curvy too LOL.
Smart move to spend a relatively small amount of money to have your friend do the hood. I would have done the same thing. Like you said, the mess from sanding would have been a real issue with the car being as complete as it is now.
YouTube videos are day to day invaluable info assets, as we all know.
Okay everyone,
Got some work done today. Man, I forgot how hard and dirty body work is LOL. I'm glad I gave my hood to my buddy LOL.
Since I need to do some body work and paint I got the car wrapped in plastic again.
First thing I decided to work on was my QTR panel extensions. These were not to hard since they were already body worked and painted. Just need to scuff them up.
You can see the black exposed on the passenger QTR extension from where I did the sanding to get it to line up with the QTR itself.
I used 180 grit to knock everything down. Then I used 320 and 400 grit to get them ready for paint.
Got them set up for primer.
I sprayed them with 3 coats of primer. I will go over them with 600 grit wet tomorrow and then base coat and clear coat them.
Got some work done today. Man, I forgot how hard and dirty body work is LOL. I'm glad I gave my hood to my buddy LOL.
Since I need to do some body work and paint I got the car wrapped in plastic again.
First thing I decided to work on was my QTR panel extensions. These were not to hard since they were already body worked and painted. Just need to scuff them up.
You can see the black exposed on the passenger QTR extension from where I did the sanding to get it to line up with the QTR itself.
I used 180 grit to knock everything down. Then I used 320 and 400 grit to get them ready for paint.
Got them set up for primer.
I sprayed them with 3 coats of primer. I will go over them with 600 grit wet tomorrow and then base coat and clear coat them.
While I was working on the QTR extensions I also decided to work on the radiator cover. Besides the hood, this was going to be my biggest challenge since it needs to be body worked and it's in bare metal.
Got the cover on my panel rack and did an initial skim of body filler. The top center and sides were the worst spots because that's where my fabricator had to do some welding. Metal got a little distorted.
Top part with the initial skim of body filler.
After I did my initial sanding the metal revealed some low spots where my fabricator used the dimple die.
Second application of body filler.
Everything is sanded and level. I used 40 grit to knock down the bulk of the body filler. Then I shaped it with 80 grit and finished it off with 180 grit. I got used to using my DA to sand the body panels on the car. So, doing this manually wasn't any fun LOL. It's like it's 2020 again and I'm body working the engine compartment LOL.
Since it's in bare metal I sprayed it with etching primer first.
Just wanted to show you guys I did spray the bottom too. That tab in the middle was put there by my fabricator to hold the radiator in place. That tab is why I needed to body work the top side.
Here it is in its final coat of primer. I'll also go over this with 600 grit wet tomorrow and then get it painted.
Here is a close up of the top center. Looks pretty good to me. It's not perfect, but for a radiator cover it should be very nice.
Got the cover on my panel rack and did an initial skim of body filler. The top center and sides were the worst spots because that's where my fabricator had to do some welding. Metal got a little distorted.
Top part with the initial skim of body filler.
After I did my initial sanding the metal revealed some low spots where my fabricator used the dimple die.
Second application of body filler.
Everything is sanded and level. I used 40 grit to knock down the bulk of the body filler. Then I shaped it with 80 grit and finished it off with 180 grit. I got used to using my DA to sand the body panels on the car. So, doing this manually wasn't any fun LOL. It's like it's 2020 again and I'm body working the engine compartment LOL.
Since it's in bare metal I sprayed it with etching primer first.
Just wanted to show you guys I did spray the bottom too. That tab in the middle was put there by my fabricator to hold the radiator in place. That tab is why I needed to body work the top side.
Here it is in its final coat of primer. I'll also go over this with 600 grit wet tomorrow and then get it painted.
Here is a close up of the top center. Looks pretty good to me. It's not perfect, but for a radiator cover it should be very nice.
Okay Everyone,
Got some painting done today. For the most part it went great, but you guys know it's never without its challenges LOL.
Got my QTR extensions in base coat.
Gave them some additional coats.
Then the challenge started. For those of you who have been following you will remember I had a reaction on the passenger side QTR panel. Even though I primed this passenger QTR extension it still had a reaction. I don't know what the body shop put on here, but it does not play well with my base coat. Since the part is small I decided I'll take it down to bare metal and work it when I spray my headlight buckets next week. So, I put it aside for now.
Here you can see more bad spots.
So, I focused on the driver's QTR extension. It came out great. This is after final coat and orientation coat.
Man, I love spraying clear coat LOL.
The clear laid out very nice.
Man, look at that reflection. Now to get the other one up to this level LOL.
Got some painting done today. For the most part it went great, but you guys know it's never without its challenges LOL.
Got my QTR extensions in base coat.
Gave them some additional coats.
Then the challenge started. For those of you who have been following you will remember I had a reaction on the passenger side QTR panel. Even though I primed this passenger QTR extension it still had a reaction. I don't know what the body shop put on here, but it does not play well with my base coat. Since the part is small I decided I'll take it down to bare metal and work it when I spray my headlight buckets next week. So, I put it aside for now.
Here you can see more bad spots.
So, I focused on the driver's QTR extension. It came out great. This is after final coat and orientation coat.
Man, I love spraying clear coat LOL.
The clear laid out very nice.
Man, look at that reflection. Now to get the other one up to this level LOL.
I was also spraying my radiator cover at the same time. This thing came out amazing. I'm VERY happy with it.
Here it is after final orientation coat.
And here it is in clear coat. It came out great overall. Some minor issues, but they will get taken care of during the buffing process.
Since this is a smaller part I laid the clear on a little heavier than normal. So, there is very little orange peel in this.
Man, this is going to look great once I buff it.
Here is the minor issue I was talking about. Since I laid the clear on a little heavier than normal gravity pulled the clear into the holes and caused some minor runs. I'll sand them out and then buff the paint. Should be fine as I'll take it easy here.
Here it is after final orientation coat.
And here it is in clear coat. It came out great overall. Some minor issues, but they will get taken care of during the buffing process.
Since this is a smaller part I laid the clear on a little heavier than normal. So, there is very little orange peel in this.
Man, this is going to look great once I buff it.
Here is the minor issue I was talking about. Since I laid the clear on a little heavier than normal gravity pulled the clear into the holes and caused some minor runs. I'll sand them out and then buff the paint. Should be fine as I'll take it easy here.
Isn't the paint spider cracks from the previous coat not being fully cured and out gassing?
I've had that same looking issue before.
Hello Lambeau. In my situation I do not think that's the case. My primer had been dry for weeks on my QTR panel before I painted the car and it reacted with the previous coating. I sprayed my primer yesterday on the QTR extension and let it dry over night. I wet sanded it this morning with 600 grit and then sprayed it in the afternoon when it was a little warmer and it still had a reaction. AND it was on the same side (passenger) as my QTR panel issue. So, it has to be a chemical reaction from the previous paint used.
Also, I used the exact same prep and painting process on my radiator cover and driver's QTR extension and they did not have a reaction. And my radiator cover was in bare metal. So, I think it has to do with something the body shop used on the passenger QTR panel the last time they painted it.
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That radiator covers looks perfect! Nice job. I'm getting chills! LOL.
Thank you Bob! You are always too kind my friend. The weather is supposed to be really nice here this weekend. So, I'll focus on painting some of the remaining parts I have. Then I'll cut and buff them all as time permits.
Hello Everyone,
Well today was a good/disappointing/good day LOL.
I got a jump on the 3 day weekend today. I went to pick my hood up at lunch. Then my boss was kind enough to release me early today due to the up coming holiday. Not going to complain about that.
So, around 2PM I unloaded my hood and put it on my panel stand in the garage. When I first seen it at my buddies body shop it looked really good. However, when I got it home, cleaned it up and took a closer look I was a little disappointed.
Don't get me wrong my buddy did exactly what I asked him to do, but thought he might of had his guys do a little more knowing the level of build I'm trying to achieve.
Okay, so it was a good day because I got my hood back and the underside is smooth and the top I had the mounting holes filled in case I need to move my hood pins to get them to line up better. So, Good day LOL.
They did a good job filling the 4 screw holes that go around the main hole.
Okay here is the first part of the disappointment. Apparently my buddies body guy got a little carried away while working on the bottom and ended up causing some very minor damage to the top. Yes, I'm going to repaint this, but I don't need chips that have to be filled or sanded out. That's just more work for me.
So, I got to work on the hood. I'm going to try and get it painted this weekend, but I have some plans for this hood that may keep me from getting it finished in 3 days.
I went over the hood with 400 grit on the DA. This part went pretty quick. I did not get the sides of the cowl as it needs to be done by hand.
Here you can see the top corner near the rear of the cowl is where the minor damage was. I ended up just sanding it out. I'm going to prime the whole hood and just start with a fresh baseline.
Well today was a good/disappointing/good day LOL.
I got a jump on the 3 day weekend today. I went to pick my hood up at lunch. Then my boss was kind enough to release me early today due to the up coming holiday. Not going to complain about that.
So, around 2PM I unloaded my hood and put it on my panel stand in the garage. When I first seen it at my buddies body shop it looked really good. However, when I got it home, cleaned it up and took a closer look I was a little disappointed.
Don't get me wrong my buddy did exactly what I asked him to do, but thought he might of had his guys do a little more knowing the level of build I'm trying to achieve.
Okay, so it was a good day because I got my hood back and the underside is smooth and the top I had the mounting holes filled in case I need to move my hood pins to get them to line up better. So, Good day LOL.
They did a good job filling the 4 screw holes that go around the main hole.
Okay here is the first part of the disappointment. Apparently my buddies body guy got a little carried away while working on the bottom and ended up causing some very minor damage to the top. Yes, I'm going to repaint this, but I don't need chips that have to be filled or sanded out. That's just more work for me.
So, I got to work on the hood. I'm going to try and get it painted this weekend, but I have some plans for this hood that may keep me from getting it finished in 3 days.
I went over the hood with 400 grit on the DA. This part went pretty quick. I did not get the sides of the cowl as it needs to be done by hand.
Here you can see the top corner near the rear of the cowl is where the minor damage was. I ended up just sanding it out. I'm going to prime the whole hood and just start with a fresh baseline.
Then I flipped the hood over and took a closer look at the main work I had done. Overall they did a great job getting that exposed fiberglass pattern covered up and smooth.
However, they left a ton of pin holes in the body filler. This is common, but you normally use glazing putty to fill those holes. Well, they did not do that. So, guess who gets to do it?
You know when you pay for something to be done you normally expect it to be done right and complete.
I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times. If you want something done right......
All those white spots are glazing putty covering pin holes.
While I was waiting for the glazing putty to dry I started to block sand the frame. All those dark spots on the frame are low spots. Guess more body work needs to be completed. Damn. More disappointment LOL.
So, I mixed up some body filler and placed it around all 4 sides of the hood frame.
Okay, after everything dried I got to work sanding. It took me 5 hours to get this hood done. I had to shape the body filler with 80 grit. Then I had to smooth it out with 180 grit. Then I had to go over the entire underside with 320 grit to get it ready for the 2K high build primer. Since there are so many contours I had to do the 80, 180 and 320 grits by hand.
The good news is it came out great! SWEET!!! This is going to look great after it is painted.
Here is a close up of the frame. You can see it took a good amount of filler to get it leveled out. Looks good now.
Here is a close up of the glazing putty. All those white spots are pin holes (even at the top of the photo). They were every where.....
This was one of the bigger pin holes. Took it back down to fiberglass, but I will be spraying 2K high build primer and then sanding it one more time before I spray color.
However, they left a ton of pin holes in the body filler. This is common, but you normally use glazing putty to fill those holes. Well, they did not do that. So, guess who gets to do it?
You know when you pay for something to be done you normally expect it to be done right and complete.
I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times. If you want something done right......
All those white spots are glazing putty covering pin holes.
While I was waiting for the glazing putty to dry I started to block sand the frame. All those dark spots on the frame are low spots. Guess more body work needs to be completed. Damn. More disappointment LOL.
So, I mixed up some body filler and placed it around all 4 sides of the hood frame.
Okay, after everything dried I got to work sanding. It took me 5 hours to get this hood done. I had to shape the body filler with 80 grit. Then I had to smooth it out with 180 grit. Then I had to go over the entire underside with 320 grit to get it ready for the 2K high build primer. Since there are so many contours I had to do the 80, 180 and 320 grits by hand.
The good news is it came out great! SWEET!!! This is going to look great after it is painted.
Here is a close up of the frame. You can see it took a good amount of filler to get it leveled out. Looks good now.
Here is a close up of the glazing putty. All those white spots are pin holes (even at the top of the photo). They were every where.....
This was one of the bigger pin holes. Took it back down to fiberglass, but I will be spraying 2K high build primer and then sanding it one more time before I spray color.
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