^^ I would like to know as well since stock heads with boss spring is the route I am taking also.
Benchracer's JPC Turbo car on the dyno.
- Thread starter Aaron@JPCRacing
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^^ I would like to know as well since stock heads with boss spring is the route I am taking also.
Here is the thing with a boss spring.
If you get 32 Boss Springs and check coil bind on them you will easily get 28 different numbers.
The Boss Springs are a cheaply made spring lets be real they are like 60 bucks for 16....
We are talking they are 3.75 bucks a piece thats cheap
The Boss Springs are just cheap thats all. little insurance for some small builds that dont really "need" springs but they are nothing fancy.
if your doing a Build that really requires springs there are better ways to spend your money Like the livernois
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other then the labor lol
but yes they are not like a super quality piece thats for sure. I would much rather see a better spring on a big build.
We are not claiming them to be superior or better than others. The question was simple and not answered at all honestly. And they are for people who do not have 1000hp or bust budget builds going on.. but if a boss can and do make 750-850rwhp on the springs with 15+lbs of boost than I see no wrong going with them. The question is and i'll ask again if the frpp boss springs have to be shimmed like the livernois obviously do? And was the cars power falling off at a certain rpm? Is that how the problem was eventually found ?
I would pay extra for the Livernois springs.
Even though my Boss motor was stock, with the Boss valve springs, JPC still put in the Livernois springs. We wanted to make some power with the stock motor, so in went the Livernois springs. Good insurance for higher power levels. While they had the cams out, they did the Oil pump gears too.
No issues with probably 30-40 passes on the Boss at 800+HP. :rockon:
If you want to make 850 i would not suggest the boss springs hows that.
I think they are junk and should not be used. 850hp is alot of power and the labor thats needed to install is not a light task.
Its hard to say where to set them up because bind is different on every spring.
SO to answer your question yes they need to be checked on every valve to install correctly. and in order to know where to install them you will need a spring checker. if you want to do it right
I cant say they will make a specific number because i dont know. I have tried to be very forward with info in this thread.
Moral of the story is if you dont think you need springs but want to be safe sure throw them in. but if your looking for some big numbers IE 850 i would not recommend them. or have a spring checker and set them up to have the proper pressure for your build
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I missed part of your post...
No the car didnt not have a specific rpm that it was dropping power. It would pull to 7200 on one pull and say 6900 on the next. It changed with heat and boost. It was running like it had a misfire like i said earlier. Hence the reason we changed 2 heat range plugs new coil packs and so on
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You dont have to be a dick. Its not like he has to answer your question. He is constantly on here giving out info to the community and you act like its a damn service he owes you. Grow the F up man. Seriously.
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interesting thread agree that if you want to make huge power you need a boutique race spring with very tight wire length and wire diameter tolerances. On an OEM spring they design for a window of seat pressure (actually seat force) at a certain height with a specific tolerance. that way they can spend the money on high fatigue life and very little load loss and not spend $ on controlling the wire length perfectly they are probably machine cut not hand finished like a sweet aftermarket part.
I have boss springs on my car, they work great but if i'm spending 15k on a new motor and turbo kit, there will be a set of great springs on it - Livernois and MMR do not make their own springs in house they buy from people like PAC, PSI, Kurt Kauffmann, Manley, etc..
here is the hard to find Kauffmann web site for springs. they made the Lotus indycar springs, tons of Nascar and count Porsche and Merc as OEM's. Thanks race engine development magazine.
http://www.kauffmann-federn.de/i_en.html
I have boss springs on my car, they work great but if i'm spending 15k on a new motor and turbo kit, there will be a set of great springs on it - Livernois and MMR do not make their own springs in house they buy from people like PAC, PSI, Kurt Kauffmann, Manley, etc..
here is the hard to find Kauffmann web site for springs. they made the Lotus indycar springs, tons of Nascar and count Porsche and Merc as OEM's. Thanks race engine development magazine.
http://www.kauffmann-federn.de/i_en.html
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I'm not sure what Boss cars out there are making 800+rwhp on the stock boss springs and High Boost and surviving. Maybe you should ask your fellow PA buddies about a particular Boss that was running in that power level. Kaboom. :rollseyes
If you want to make over 800, the Boss springs aren't the answer. You probably won't see Valve float as much on a Blower car, but will definitely present itself more on a Turbo car, especially a big Single Turbo depending on the back pressure.
Maybe your buddy should find another tuner. :burn:
Agree. I believe the Livernois springs are from Trick Flow. Can't remember the deal with PAC and Trick Flow. Regardless, I've had great luck with the Livernois springs and plan to use them in my RGR race motor.
Its been already in the works..with AED and REV auto..
Also wasn't coming off as a prick or making it sound as such, I just felt like a bush was being beaten lol. Any how, Like I mentioned the boss springs were not a being used as an end all end top notch spring, but also was asking why eric thought they were so shitty in his opinion, and asking how they came about fiding out the springs were floating IE: rpm power drop off?
A built bottom and using it in NA and Nitrous or blower form a boss spring should be fine imop up to 700-750+whp, and good for making more power or holding more power than stock springs when on a budget.
Like most of us on here we don't have 10's of thousands to dump on a block and turbo and heads along with cams and every best built aftermarket part made and going to make 1000+ whp. Just asking about info on the frpp boss springs as an alternative to the stock springs and to save money when going to keep stock heads but want a little stiffer option. That's all..
Also wasn't coming off as a prick or making it sound as such, I just felt like a bush was being beaten lol. Any how, Like I mentioned the boss springs were not a being used as an end all end top notch spring, but also was asking why eric thought they were so shitty in his opinion, and asking how they came about fiding out the springs were floating IE: rpm power drop off?
A built bottom and using it in NA and Nitrous or blower form a boss spring should be fine imop up to 700-750+whp, and good for making more power or holding more power than stock springs when on a budget.
Like most of us on here we don't have 10's of thousands to dump on a block and turbo and heads along with cams and every best built aftermarket part made and going to make 1000+ whp. Just asking about info on the frpp boss springs as an alternative to the stock springs and to save money when going to keep stock heads but want a little stiffer option. That's all..
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Yes, you will get valve float around 10-11psi with twins on boss motor with nice flowing exhaust.
I know this for sure......
And this is what it pretty much looks like on an AMS 1000 when you hit it.
I know this for sure......
And this is what it pretty much looks like on an AMS 1000 when you hit it.
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The Pac springs are a 329$ upgrade its silly not to upgrade the springs if your playing serious enough that your even going in the motor spending labor and a forged short block its worth the few extra dollars..
Even with stock heads and cams its cheap insurance with boosted application.
If you end up having to spend the labor again because you skimped on springs you will regret it.
Even with stock heads and cams its cheap insurance with boosted application.
If you end up having to spend the labor again because you skimped on springs you will regret it.
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Agreed even if you need to save an extra couple weeks! I feel if your going in the motor you better be checking EVERYTHING not just bolting on parts because its supposed to fit. This is why some cars run way better than others, the people who check go faster!
840 1st pull on 15 PSI
time to see what its really got now
time to see what its really got now
:beer:
:rockon:
Lol I always knew I liked your car
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