just put mine back on and about to measure now....
ATTN: all relocation bracket users!
- Thread starter alex12gt
- Start date
just put mine back on and about to measure now....
Make sure you lower car and roll it.
Mine only took 1hr 10mins, wbu
lol
Mine only took 1hr 10mins, wbu
lol
without brackets (measured from the crease inbetween the fender and rocker back to the tire with a scale)
driver 1.9in
pass 2.0in
on that its pretty straight and ill say it could almost be the same....
with the brackets
driver 2.0
pass 2.3
so the driver side really for the most part didnt move but pass went back .3 im going to do a little drive and keep tabs on it beacuse i have a feeling this will shift im sure i could maybe even take a few cracks with the mallet and lessen that difference but i will check wheel base when i can get some help over
driver 1.9in
pass 2.0in
on that its pretty straight and ill say it could almost be the same....
with the brackets
driver 2.0
pass 2.3
so the driver side really for the most part didnt move but pass went back .3 im going to do a little drive and keep tabs on it beacuse i have a feeling this will shift im sure i could maybe even take a few cracks with the mallet and lessen that difference but i will check wheel base when i can get some help over
Make sure you lower car and roll it.
Mine only took 1hr 10mins, wbu
havnt rolled it but will prolly take it for a spin in the morning and about 120 with ba buddy stopping over for me to look at his car and for some reason the pass side back strap bolt wanted to be a pain
look at the vent it should be at the top center of the tube... if not its a dead give away
either the relos are bending from launches or bent from the manufacturer. i'm going with the latter. since the relos with multiple holes are longer, any angle deviation will be more pronounced the further you move down the holes.
Im gonna go with bent from the manufacture. I have had mine on for no more then 200mi with no drag passes or hard launches. I barely get traction with temps in the 40-50 range so it definitely isnt hard launches.
Should I contact bmr about the issue?
Should I contact bmr about the issue?
i'd contact the reseller if it wasn't bmr. sounds like people have bent ones from no launches or ones that are welded.
i understand the whitelines look identical to bmr except for the extra holes, but maybe they got the angles right when they bent the metal.
Whenever your changing the angle or geometry, your going to change how the science behind everything goes.
Relocation brackets have been around since 2005. BMR used to be a weld in (what I did) and never had an issue. Most companies make bolt in ones now a days because thats what everyone wants. Look at the bolt-in cages.... enough said.
Now the relocation brackets are designed to keep your rear LCA in the location its ment to be. This is for lowered vehicles. Stock height can run them too but in the top hole.
Comparing the Whiteline to the BMR.... I simply cannot agree. Theirs only so much you can do. It's not about saving weight, it's about keeping a strong bracket that will not bend or move. Both will do the same job for anyone on this site or in general. Why we sell both. I will not and cannot say that each one is better then the other.
Now with seeing this before on how each side is off, remember, when these items are made, it can be 1 off. This can also go with the SRA in the cars now.
My advice, if your putting these on, weld and bolt them.
Relocation brackets have been around since 2005. BMR used to be a weld in (what I did) and never had an issue. Most companies make bolt in ones now a days because thats what everyone wants. Look at the bolt-in cages.... enough said.
Now the relocation brackets are designed to keep your rear LCA in the location its ment to be. This is for lowered vehicles. Stock height can run them too but in the top hole.
Comparing the Whiteline to the BMR.... I simply cannot agree. Theirs only so much you can do. It's not about saving weight, it's about keeping a strong bracket that will not bend or move. Both will do the same job for anyone on this site or in general. Why we sell both. I will not and cannot say that each one is better then the other.
Now with seeing this before on how each side is off, remember, when these items are made, it can be 1 off. This can also go with the SRA in the cars now.
My advice, if your putting these on, weld and bolt them.
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Boss 302s brackets and no issues with numerous radial launches. If you ever held them in your hand compared to the Whiteline, Steeda or BMR you would know why. Bigger, beefier and just plain stronger.
1. trigonometry is math and not science.
2. as a vendor who sells both relos, you sure sound a lot like greg marmalard.
Dean Vernon Wormer: Greg, what is the worst fraternity on this campus?
Greg Marmalard: That would be hard to say, sir. They're each outstanding in their own way...
Are they really worth me having on the car? I dont hit the strip much (not chasing record et's). I dont like the idea of using adj lca's as basically a bandaid for the bent/defective bracket, nor do I want to weld the brackets in.
Maybe contact bmr for another set, if those work keep them but just keep an eye on things, if they too are bent just give up lol
Maybe contact bmr for another set, if those work keep them but just keep an eye on things, if they too are bent just give up lol
Just measured mine from the body to the tire and it was 1/4 inch off from one side to the other. Is there a better way or place to measure this? I have umi lowers and relos. No drag passes. Forward 1/4inch driver side.
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The car felt much better planted with the brackets in fixing the lca angle, but I dont feel like potentially causing any damage if I dont weld
Am I the only one who was having the steer straight issue???
Am I the only one who was having the steer straight issue???
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1. trigonometry is math and not science.
2. as a vendor who sells both relos, you sure sound a lot like greg marmalard.
Dean Vernon Wormer: Greg, what is the worst fraternity on this campus?
Greg Marmalard: That would be hard to say, sir. They're each outstanding in their own way...
Well.... to break it down more for you. The science is behind how cars work. With creating how the insursha, weight transfer, power-loss, goes, their is math behind it. It goes hand in hand.
I have no problem breaking it down more if you would like though. :beer:
As a vendor of multi products, I cannot tell you which is going to be better because both will result in the same finishing conclusion.
And as said before, we would recommend welding them on besides bolting it on. That would change the outcome.
Thanks
May have to get a welder over beat them even and throw some weld on them or just pull them out
how does welding in bent relo brackets magically fix the problem? somebody already mentioned in this thread he has bent relos brackets that are welded.
it's either the bend of the bracket or the holes are in the wrong place. welded or brand new bolted in, guys in this thread are claiming they're still bent.
Here are some pics to explain this a little better.
This is the drivers side. Notice how I can fit 3 fingers (yeah yeah ha ha ha) easily and there is still some space.
Now this is the passenger side. Notice how I can barely get my 3 fingers perfectly flat. And yes it is the same exact spot on each side cause I used the upper screw on the mudflap as a guide point
Also this is how my wheel needs to be turned in order for my car to drive perfectly straight. I did notice a slight whine after installing the lca's and brackets but I figured it was just increased NVH. I am going to take them off now and test drive it and see if that disappears as well as if my wheel can be kept straight.
Mine is the exact same way with my bmr relo brackets
I thought the steering wheel being crooked was from the camber bolts i thru in but its not. Measured the rear and its 1/2in off one side to the other. 4 fingers on one side 3 on the other :fm:
Mine is the exact same way with my bmr relo brackets
I literally said to my friend the other day, "I think i need and alignment". Then saw Alex's thread and checked and BOOM. Issue fixed.
And for those saying weld in, ron mexico is correct whats the point in welding the brackets in if theyre already bent? Your not fixing the issue at all your just preventing the bracket from breaking off the axle or a bolt breaking and it moving. If I had perfectly fitting brackets thats a different story
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