ATTN: all relocation bracket users!

Chaney5.0

New Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
335
Location
Basement
Here are some pics to explain this a little better.

This is the drivers side. Notice how I can fit 3 fingers (yeah yeah ha ha ha) easily and there is still some space.
ythryt_zpsb15e99a8.jpg




Now this is the passenger side. Notice how I can barely get my 3 fingers perfectly flat. And yes it is the same exact spot on each side cause I used the upper screw on the mudflap as a guide point
photo-1_zpsc6d0d10c.jpg



Also this is how my wheel needs to be turned in order for my car to drive perfectly straight. I did notice a slight whine after installing the lca's and brackets but I figured it was just increased NVH. I am going to take them off now and test drive it and see if that disappears as well as if my wheel can be kept straight.

grtg_zpsc22cca00.jpg

Relo brackets won't add NVH, but LCAs with the bushings will. I went to Lcas and got a whine noise as any moving speed above 5 mph. it is a constant 5-10dba howl. Normal brotha.
 

grabber blue gt

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
695
Location
United States
you guys do know that whiteline relocation brackets are just knock off BMR's don't you?

if you don't, get ahold of both brands & look at them side by side, it will be very clear.

bad part is though that whiteline screwed everyone out of the aditional adjustment holes.

Soooooo, take mine off and if it aligns correctly with them off just contact bmr for a new set? This can get annoying if I'm taking sets on and off lol.
 

04SNK390HP

I hate SHEEPLE
Established Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
1,709
Location
Vilseck, Germany
you guys do know that whiteline relocation brackets are just knock off BMR's don't you?

if you don't, get ahold of both brands & look at them side by side, it will be very clear.

bad part is though that whiteline screwed everyone out of the aditional adjustment holes.

Sounds to me like they're not knock BMR knock offs then. If they were knock offs then they would be the exact same but a different color or something like that. You know, kinda like what UPR does, lol.

Yep, I just went there.

On a side note, the one hole that Whiteline brackets have will suit about 95% of what people are trying to achieve.
 

casper gt

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
393
Location
Creighton Pa
Soooooo, take mine off and if it aligns correctly with them off just contact bmr for a new set? This can get annoying if I'm taking sets on and off lol.

I would take pictures of them installed (not of the gaps of the tire/wheel opening, pictures of the actual brackets installed), then take them off & reinstall the lowers & check the alignment, then take some more pictures.

make shure to post all the pictures here.
 

powerhogger

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
208
Location
H-Town
Whitelines on mine. Dead even on both sides. NO drag launches just 10-20 street launches.

If it helps, I took my shocks and sway bar off during installation so that the axle had lots of play.
 

casper gt

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 19, 2012
Messages
393
Location
Creighton Pa
Sounds to me like they're not knock BMR knock offs then. If they were knock offs then they would be the exact same but a different color or something like that. You know, kinda like what UPR does, lol.

Yep, I just went there.

On a side note, the one hole that Whiteline brackets have will suit about 95% of what people are trying to achieve.

I think your splitting hairs on just what a knock off is, bottom line is if you have both in your hand, you'll see what I mean.
 

BHARRIS

FoMoCo
Established Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2012
Messages
269
Location
Concord, NC
I think your splitting hairs on just what a knock off is, bottom line is if you have both in your hand, you'll see what I mean.

defintly splitting hairs going between diffrent brands, one good launch on any relocation brackets that are just bolted in place will not be correctly aligned
 

Blazer707@TBR

Master Ford Tech
Authorized Vendor
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
4,313
Location
Bay Area
Before things get really out of hand.


People that think they have this problem, measure the wheelbase to be completely sure, center of center cap to center of center cap, front to back.


My steering wheel is completely straight when driving, I have 10+ hard launchs on my slicks now, I measured the gap from wheel to body panel and drivers side is at 2 1/2 inchs and passenger side is at 2 3/4 inchs. Then I measured the wheelbase and it was completely dead on with both sides at 107 inchs exactly.

-Thomas
 

cuzracecar

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Messages
170
Location
Muscatine, IA
When u guys r putting on ur lower controll arms r u snugging the bolt then dropping the car then tighten to spec or are u guys just torque n down all the way while its still on the stands????
 

INEEDA_TERMI

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
681
Location
Grady, Alabama
When u guys r putting on ur lower controll arms r u snugging the bolt then dropping the car then tighten to spec or are u guys just torque n down all the way while its still on the stands????

At first, I torqued mine on the lift, but after I downloaded the service manual for removal and installation, I loosened them, lowered the car until the suspension was fully compressed, and re-torqued everything.
 

Tuffnuts23

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
817
Location
Camarillo, CA
Great. Just did the 3 finger check and mine is off by a bit. This would explain why the ass end always goes to the right when the tires break loose. I have the UMI weld in brackets. They are welded in, now what?
 

ModularSpeed

Suspension Guru
Established Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Messages
929
Location
Florida
FWIW, I just measured my 2005 Focus, my 2008 Milan, and my 2004 Cobra....and they are all between 1/4" and 1/2" off using the 3-Finger method.

Crap.
 

BHARRIS

FoMoCo
Established Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2012
Messages
269
Location
Concord, NC
Great. Just did the 3 finger check and mine is off by a bit. This would explain why the ass end always goes to the right when the tires break loose. I have the UMI weld in brackets. They are welded in, now what?

check the brackets and make sure they were welded correctly.... if they are check the axle tube its self.... i hope the brackets are off in your sake
 

Tuffnuts23

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
817
Location
Camarillo, CA
Brackets look good. I have maybe 30 track passes on the car, but no hard drag radial/slick launches. I still have the stock LCA's. What's the best way to check the axle tubes?
 

alex12gt

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
2,429
Location
moline, il
When u guys r putting on ur lower controll arms r u snugging the bolt then dropping the car then tighten to spec or are u guys just torque n down all the way while its still on the stands????

use a paint marker to mark the shock that way once your done and its still on the stands jack it back up to that mark and tighten.....if you torque without the load on it the bushing have a load on them once its back on the ground

never understood that till i went to pull my uca off un bolted it and it shot up like a spring was in it...but the axle was free hanging if that makes any sense
 

ModularSpeed

Suspension Guru
Established Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Messages
929
Location
Florida
If it's aftermarket LCA, it doesn't matter if the suspension is loaded or not.

For the UCA, if you are running the factory Diff bushing, you should definitely torque the car at ride height.

I guess all I could have said is, if it has a bonded bushing it needs to be tightened with the car at ride height, suspension loaded. If it doesn't, torque it however you want...upside down, it doesn't matter.
 
Last edited:

alex12gt

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
2,429
Location
moline, il
If it's aftermarket LCA, it doesn't matter if the suspension is loaded or not.

For the UCA, if you are running the factory Diff bushing, you should definitely torque the car at ride height.

I guess all I could have said is, if it has a bonded bushing it needs to be tightened with the car at ride height, suspension loaded. If it doesn't, torque it however you want...upside down, it doesn't matter.

just reread install instrutions on the steeda parts i did for a friend and indeed the lowers dont call for it but the upper does
 

grabber blue gt

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
695
Location
United States
Dont have time to read this all as im in the car on my phone BUTTTTTT.....

Brackets are off, car and steering wheel drive straight, and gap is an even 3 fingers on both sides..... What does that tell ya
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top