OP, if you could clean up the post a little, throw in some spaces, paragraphs, bullets, etc, it would go a long way towards readability of your write up. 
ATTENTION: KILLER CHILLER USERS H/E bypass how to(switchable)
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OP, if you could clean up the post a little, throw in some spaces, paragraphs, bullets, etc, it would go a long way towards readability of your write up.
I edited it a little bit, I hope that's OK with the OP.
I thought that if all of the lines were insulated than you could run the AC without condensation dripping on the track:shrug:. The compressor turns off at WOT so why cant you have the KC on while you stage?
Because during the winter, you can shut off the bypass, turn the heat exchanger back on and not run the a/c. Probably don't need a/c when temps outside are 50 degrees or cooler. Of course, whenever defroster is turned on, the compressor kicks on and will cool also.(doesn't matter if temp selector in cabin is set to cool or heat, r-134 is being compressed and expanded to cool)
Thanks, Jimmy. It's very OK with me. Looks good, and i should have done it in the first place.:beer:
You can. Like you are saying, insulating all the lines, and condensation won't be an issue.:burnout:
I'm in the process of just deleting the H/E, and installing the jabsco pump. I like the idea of the bypass, but not the rat nest of plumbing. I'm hoping for extra air flow accross the radiator & AC condensor with the removal of the AFCO H/E.
also the lines running to the KC unit lay in better with the H/E gone. Its a very tight fit for the KC lines against the bumper cover with the H/E in place.
also the lines running to the KC unit lay in better with the H/E gone. Its a very tight fit for the KC lines against the bumper cover with the H/E in place.
Every part of plumbing / line condensates on my car to the point that insulating it would just lead to all of it dripping out one part that's not able to be insulating on a weird bend or turn. I do run the kc about 2 mins before I stage and then keep it on during my pass, but I have the stock h/e helping at this point, if it were to be in closed loop i'm almost positive iat2's on the back end would be much higher than 120 at the end of the pass due to nothing cooling it during the pass since the car is wot. Not so worried about the track with it, it somewhat works better than stock so i'm happy.
Had my HE totally disconnected but still installed and after a year and a half I wanted it back. It got annoying running the AC when it was 60* or lower out and I was only running an errand or cruising. To me no reason to run the AC/KC when the IAT2's are under 110*.
When can't you run the AC? I run it all the way to when the pre-stage light illuminates.
Your thinking is correct and no reason why you can't have it on during staging. See above.
Everything I could reach is insulated and I have zero drip. The drain doesn't even drip until I shut the car off. I really need to get back in there and insulate the accumulator.
To those using the ball valve:
Are you tying it in between the Pump and the Inlet of the HE, with some sort of 'Y' between the KC and Outlet of the HE?
Seems 2 valves would be needed to set this up 'correctly'
Are you tying it in between the Pump and the Inlet of the HE, with some sort of 'Y' between the KC and Outlet of the HE?
Seems 2 valves would be needed to set this up 'correctly'
Next time I put the car up on a lift I will probably mess with everything, right now it's fine and i'm not worried about it. Insulating it would probably have slightly better gains for sure but for the trouble of the amount of cuts and pipes and cramped it is, not worth the trouble when on your back imo. :beer:
This is how we've done it and it works great. You do not need two valves.
- Joe
Decided to keep the H/E instead of removing it, and install the bypass. Concluded if AC system fails, I dont want IC temps going through the roof.
I'm just waiting on a y-connector for my install. Amazing how difficult to find one, I tried local plumbing stores, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, and boat supply stores. I finally broke down and ordered one online for $11 shipped.
The Jabsco 29gpm pump & SS 3-way valve are installed. I was able to find a male EV1 pigtail connector for the pump to plug into the factory wire harnesss. will work on getting some pics.:beer:
I'm just waiting on a y-connector for my install. Amazing how difficult to find one, I tried local plumbing stores, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, and boat supply stores. I finally broke down and ordered one online for $11 shipped.
The Jabsco 29gpm pump & SS 3-way valve are installed. I was able to find a male EV1 pigtail connector for the pump to plug into the factory wire harnesss. will work on getting some pics.:beer:
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Raym5 0,
Love to see some pics of a 3-way valve setup, haven't come across one yet. Thanks!
Love to see some pics of a 3-way valve setup, haven't come across one yet. Thanks!
it turned out really good, just waiting on the barbed y connector, suppose to arrive by Friday. will post pics soon.
Excited to see how the Jabsco performs, as my stock bosch pump I think was working intermittently as of late, normally I would see my IAT2 temps approx 10* over IAT1 temps, but occasionally would get into the 120's after getting into boost heavy.
During the hot spell we had, most of the time my IAT2 were around 95-105 with 85+ temps outside. but on a recent drive with approx 70* my IAT2's were around 100-105, but I think the pump is the main cause.
Excited to see how the Jabsco performs, as my stock bosch pump I think was working intermittently as of late, normally I would see my IAT2 temps approx 10* over IAT1 temps, but occasionally would get into the 120's after getting into boost heavy.
During the hot spell we had, most of the time my IAT2 were around 95-105 with 85+ temps outside. but on a recent drive with approx 70* my IAT2's were around 100-105, but I think the pump is the main cause.
y-connector came today, here is some pics.
IAT2's after getting engine up to operating temp where approx 5-10* under IAT1's with bypass. I was seeing IAT1 of about 100* and seeing around 87-90* on my IAT2's.
w/o bypass - H/E inline about the same, but I didnt expect much of change just sitting still with no hot air hitting the H/E to warm up the coolant. Will follow up with drive results at later time to determine the gain in temps.
w/o Killer Chiller - running through H/E with no moving air ( parked ) IAT2's were around 110*
After about an 1/2 hr of running, turned it off and let it heat soak for a few minutes and let it get up to around 119*, started car back up - turned on KC with bypass - IAT2's droped in couple minutes to 89*
front bumper pic:
IC tank - insulated - not pretty - but functional
IAT2's after getting engine up to operating temp where approx 5-10* under IAT1's with bypass. I was seeing IAT1 of about 100* and seeing around 87-90* on my IAT2's.
w/o bypass - H/E inline about the same, but I didnt expect much of change just sitting still with no hot air hitting the H/E to warm up the coolant. Will follow up with drive results at later time to determine the gain in temps.
w/o Killer Chiller - running through H/E with no moving air ( parked ) IAT2's were around 110*
After about an 1/2 hr of running, turned it off and let it heat soak for a few minutes and let it get up to around 119*, started car back up - turned on KC with bypass - IAT2's droped in couple minutes to 89*
front bumper pic:
IC tank - insulated - not pretty - but functional
Now go get a bigger intercooler reservoir. This will really help, as you will have a larger supply of cold water than with the smaller res.
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