yes you need to remove cams to pull head bolts
Another one bites the dust - a few questions
- Thread starter downwardspiral
- Start date
With 15 psi showing you should have known something was wrong...cats had to be melted to cause that much restriction and inlet temps probably skyrocketed. Bummer. :nonono: My advice would be save up for an aluminator.....if you can't afford to fix it properly then you can't afford to blow it up again.... There's no such thing as a cheap rebuild anymore with the cost of all the one-time use bolts, plus bearings, rings, machining, gaskets, etc... A take-out short or longblock might be the cheapest. Also check with Ford on a stock replacement shortblock. I was looking at getting a 5.4 3v shortblock rebuilt a few years ago and it turned out a brand new one was only around $1000 with core (didn't matter that my block had a window...), a Coyote is certainly gonna be more but I was surprised how economical the factory was in that case. PM FORDSVTPARTS (Autonation, formerly Tousley) on here if you want the best deal on that, an aluminator, or just your rebuild parts for the best deals you are likely to find.
Thanks guys
Eh, my car is salvage title. I bought it back after Sandy. I would part the car out before I dropped thousands on new engine. Although you're right, the economics of my situation is different that most other's. At this point I'm probably just going to throw used stock pistons in and see what happens. My labor only costs me time, this should only cost a couple hundred bucks compared to 3k or so which I don't have. Id be waiting until next tax refund to rebuild it, at least I can drive it this summer
There is always a way to go bigger on a budget. Doesn't mean it will immedistely break.
It just means you won't accept the idea that more $$ always equals better. Often times it does not.
Good luck and keep at it!
It just means you won't accept the idea that more $$ always equals better. Often times it does not.
Good luck and keep at it!
Op, I used Blazer's writeup when I installed Billet Oil Pump Gears and FRPP Exhaust cams. I would also recommend you get a one month subsrciption to http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=helm . This is the same resource Ford Techs use. A valuable tool during the build, I used it as well.
Thanks! The more I get involved with rebuilding cars, engines and all that fun stuff the less I care about spending a ton of money and fixing things the expensive way everyone else does. I know Manley pistons are awesome, but I'm not sure that it's really necessary for my application. Buying pistons would lead to "well I better get an oil pump gear, ID1000s, aeromotive fuel system, new custom tune etc." and down the rabbit hole I go.. then at that point I crank up the boost and destroy my really expensive parts. I'll put the glass pistons back in, go back to the stock vortech tune and take it a little easier this time around. Now I know I can't hot-lap it on slicks at a track rental after driving 3 hours in NYC traffic. Who woulda thunk it.
Good info, thanks. What did you get, the service manuals?
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This is what I bought:
1 of FCS2012MSWEBM: 2012 Mustang Online Sevice Information - Month @ $19.95 each
1 of FCS2012MSWEBM: 2012 Mustang Online Sevice Information - Month @ $19.95 each
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Awesome, thanks.
For anyone else looking, here is a link to the oil pump gear writeup. Thanks Blazer707@TBR, great info.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...*A-FEW-PICS**&highlight=oil+pump+gear+writeup
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No problem, if you need any help or specs just shoot me a PM and I can give you my # and help you out.
Well I wasn't expecting this.. I guess I'll just re-ring it and carry on. No carnage, no chunks missing, no black lines of death in the cylinder walls. I had low compression on cylinders 2-4 so I was expecting some missing crowns. The cat must have overheated or something and plugged up the driver's side. I guess this will be one of the cheapest coyote builds to date.
how low was the compression?
do your best to measure deck height on each cylinder to rule out any bent rods.
do your best to measure deck height on each cylinder to rule out any bent rods.
I forget the actual number, the check engine light didn't come on though.. I want to say just below 100 but I could be wrong, it's written on a piece of paper in my garage somewhere. I'll have to look into the procedure, I have a bunch of precision measuring tools so I'm sure I can pull it off. Thanks for the heads up. I really appreciate everyone helping out because I'm sure this has all been covered in a bunch of threads that I haven't been around for.
You should've mentioned something, I've had a plugged cat on a couple cars before that will show bad relative compression on an IDS and also on a manual compression test show an issue. Disconnect the exhaust and concern goes away.
Not even a problem, I'm happy my block is ok and am rock hard that my pistons are ok. I'll re-ring it, slap it together and [make sure it's emissions legal] with some special exhaust parts.
Congrats on it not being hurt. I watched your video and cringed a little when it sounded like you got on the limiter in the burnout. I have a friend who builds racing engines and he warned me a long time ago that doing that can actually knock the bearings out of a motor. I was listening thru crappy headphones with crying screaming kids in the room so forgive me if I heard incorrectly...
Lol I love hitting limiter, makes me feel alive. The limiter was set at 6900 though, so it's not like I had a 7500 tune. Still doe, dem pistons shinin.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5eL8QDIy8eQ
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Since you have it torn down why not get a forged rotating assembly?
I would love to, but it's realistically a $2000+ difference. I'm in my car for $13k including the supercharger, the car itself is worth about $8k. I'm at the point where I just want to keep things cheap and still be able to walk away from it if shit hits the fan. I am a "young", very single homeowner that doesn't really make a lot of money.
We're gonna need a bigger ring gap.
My guess is the rings expanded and cracked the pistons. Makes sense considering the situation.
Yes it is a 2k difference, you won't have this problem that your having now, you won't have to worry about blowing up the motor and having to do all this over again.I would love to, but it's realistically a $2000+ difference. I'm in my car for $13k including the supercharger, the car itself is worth about $8k. I'm at the point where I just want to keep things cheap and still be able to walk away from it if shit hits the fan. I am a "young", very single homeowner that doesn't really make a lot of money.
We're gonna need a bigger ring gap.
My guess is the rings expanded and cracked the pistons. Makes sense considering the situation.
I guess you could blow it up but it would be a lot more difficult.
Realistically the car usually will see half an hour driving at a time, I blew it up because I abused it at the track after a 3 hour drive through traffic. Since my pistons cracked on the ring lands and not on the top I'm assuming the heat expanded the rings. I'm not sure forged pistons would do any better, or do less damage to the cylinder walls. I'm going to run a little looser of a ring gap this time, theoretically a free solution. If I were racing the car I would consider it, but I don't even street race. I'll do an occasional pull and burnout, but I don't hit track speeds on the street or drive it anywhere near as hard as I would at the track. On paper I'm looking at $400 to get my car back up and running, I honestly can't justify spending 5x as much to possibly just break something else. It's kind of a crapshoot to me no matter how much you spend, so I just try to keep things cheap.. I've been driving my 04 mountaineer with chunks missing from the piston for almost a year now and if it blows up it blows up. I avoided pulling the engine when I put it back together and got a lot of use out of it. No I didn't fix it the right way, but it was cheap and I was driving it a lot sooner than I would have been had I pulled the motor and replaced the piston. Different strokes I guess
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